Does anybody have practical advice on how to free sticking
piston rings without having to remove the piston. Visual
inspection (with a small camera) shows that the bore is ok, a
cylinder leak test shows that there is too much leakage in
the cylinder, valves don’t leak.
I saw a combustion cleaner advertised by Wynns. Anybody
experience with this?
Johan;
There aren’t many (if any) “magic potions” that are going to
effectively “clean” the piston rings and grooves… you might try a few
teaspoons of “Marvel Mystery Oil” in each cylinder, allow to sit, rotate by
hand, repeat, etc. over a period of time (months?) and it “might” help… it
might not…
I just pulled down a “low mileage” Volvo P-1800 engine (thirty-three
years old with only 100K miles on it)… 75lbs compression on #3, the others
were 150… which is still low for a 10-1 engine… I found one broken
compression ring and ALL the ring grooves were “beat” excessively wide. The
years of sitting more than being driven and all those “dry engine starts”
took it’s toll on this engine.
The only positive way to determine if the “bore is okay” is by
accurately measuring it with an inside micrometer… it’s common to have
“oval bores” in worn-out engines…
Best of luck on your engine, and keep us posted as to your results…
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “NLV8”
Does anybody have practical advice on how to free sticking
piston rings without having to remove the piston. Visual
inspection (with a small camera) shows that the bore is ok, a
cylinder leak test shows that there is too much leakage in
the cylinder, valves don’t leak.
I saw a combustion cleaner advertised by Wynns. Anybody
experience with this?
valves don’t leak.
Actually, valve can (and do) leak… Burnt, carbon
deposits, etc…
I’m guessing that in this case they’re OK
I’m a great believer (and user) of Marvel Mystery Oil.
At one time you could get a “shot” of UCL (Upper
Cylinder Lubricant) at Petrol (Gas) stations in the UK
when you filled up. (for about a penny a ‘shot’ per
gallon)
I’ve also used it to keep older aircraft radial engines “up
to snuff”
Dave KK7SS
AMSAT #35359 DN06ig
Mail is Virus checked , both IN and OUT
–Alt-Boundary-26222.1648770
<?xml version="1.0" ?>
>>valves don't leak.
Actually, valve can (and do) leak... Burnt, carbon
deposits, etc...
I'm guessing that in this case they're OK :-)
I'm a great believer (and user) of Marvel Mystery Oil.
At one time you could get a "shot" of UCL (Upper
Cylinder Lubricant) at Petrol (Gas) stations in the UK
when you filled up. (for about a penny a 'shot' per
gallon)
I've also used it to keep older aircraft radial engines "up
Sticking rings are common on the Cadillac Northstar V8s. Visit your local
Cad dealer and ask them for some of whatever they are using to free them up
(some use a GM product, others and aftermarket product).
Remove the plugs, pour a bit in each cylinder, let it sit a few hours, turn
the motor a bit, repeat a few times. Make sure to change the engine oil
before running the engine.
Doug Dwyer
Longview, Washington USA
1987 Ser III XJ6
1988 XJS V12
Johan;
There aren’t many (if any) “magic potions” that are going to
effectively “clean” the piston rings and grooves… you might try a few
teaspoons of “Marvel Mystery Oil” in each cylinder, allow to sit, rotate
by
hand, repeat, etc. over a period of time (months?) and it “might” help…
it
might not…
In reply to a message from Doug Dwyer sent Sun 26 Dec 2004:
Hi Doug, and all
Check out these products.
Kroil penetrant, imho, is the best.
Try the methods described below.
Great stuff. Just might do it for you.
Rich–
The original message included these comments:
Remove the plugs, pour a bit in each cylinder, let it sit a few hours, turn
the motor a bit, repeat a few times. Make sure to change the engine oil
before running the engine.
Doug Dwyer
I use AeroKroil all the time. Great stuff and, for the true gearheads who
might appreciate such things, it has a wonderful aroma :-). Rich, wouldn’t
you agree ?
Never woulda thunk of using it to free up stuck rings but, hey, I don’t see
why it wouldn’t work. I doubt that it is a strong as products designed
specifically for loosening up stuck rings, though. That might be a good
thing, as some “top engine” cleaners …the type usually not available
over-the-counter…are quite dangerous.
Doug Dwyer
Longview, Washington USA
1987 Ser III XJ6
1988 XJS V12
Hi Doug, and all
Check out these products. http://www.kanolabs.com/
Kroil penetrant, imho, is the best.
Try the methods described below.
Great stuff. Just might do it for you.
//please trim quoted text to context onlyFrom: “rich neary” richneary@aol.com
In reply to a message from NLV8 sent Sun 26 Dec 2004:
Johan:
I had the same problem with my 4.2, and I used Marvel Mystery Oil
in the fuel, 4oz per 10 gal. I also added 1qt to the oil with fresh
10W40. After about 300 highway miles I changed the oil back to
20W50, end of problem. They claim ATF works just as well, but I’ve
never tried it so I can’t say for sure.
Joel–
The original message included these comments:
Does anybody have practical advice on how to free sticking
piston rings without having to remove the piston. Visual
In reply to a message from ex jag sent Mon 27 Dec 2004:
Can you guys fill me in on this conversation? The guy says he has
low compression in one cylinder. What does it mean to have a stuck
ring? If the ring is stuck, then the piston is stuck and the
engine is stuck. I do not think that is what you all are talking
about.
Are you talking about a ring that is stuck in the groove but not to
the wall? Like so it will not rotate and maybe not release/expand
to meet the cylinder wall?
So is what you are talking about really a question of dissolving a
glob of varnish grunge that is in the ring groove?
Tx,
P.–
Peter J. Smith, 1966 3.8S, 67 MGB
carson city nevada, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
Are you talking about a ring that is stuck in the groove but not to
the wall? Like so it will not rotate and maybe not release/expand
to meet the cylinder wall?
So is what you are talking about really a question of dissolving a
glob of varnish grunge that is in the ring groove?
Tx,
P.
In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Mon 27 Dec 2004:
Thanks to all for the replies. I want to try Marvel Mystery
Oil. However, does any of the European forum members know
where one can get this? The distributor for the Netherlands
of Turtlewax (from which the Marvel products come according
to their website) doesn’t sell Marvel products. I haven’t
been able to find a source in Europe.
In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Mon 27 Dec 2004:
Thanks to all for the replies. I want to try Marvel Mystery
Oil. However, does any of the European forum members know
where one can get this? The distributor for the Netherlands
of Turtlewax (from which the Marvel products come according
to their website) doesn’t sell Marvel products. I haven’t
been able to find a source in Europe.
OMG!!! Cyl 1 & 6 on my 85 XJ6 were 30lb lower than the rest. I was thinking that I’d have to change the rings, but there is only 36K on the clock so I found this thread and thought, WTF, let’s try KROIL. I already have a can of it so I put 1cc into each cyl and let sit for a week. Put the plugs back in and the super rough idle was now only intermittent. I pulled the plugs again and put 3cc of KROIL into each cyl, turned the motor a couple times with the fuel pump disconnected, and let sit overnight. Put the plugs in and it was almost running smoothly so I took it out and did an “Italian Tuneup” by running it up the hill a few times in first gear (hitting Redline and backing off).
HOLY CRAP! It’s running as smoothly as a new car! The oil pressure dropped quite a bit so I changed top new 10W/30 and it’s idling at 40 PSI fully warmed up.
Thank you Doug and Rich for suggesting this! Now I’m gonna try it with my 87 Jeep Grand Wagoneer with a sticky lifter.
