I have the head off of a 1960 3.8, but the intake manifold
is stuck on. I’ve tried hammer blows buffered by a scrap
piece of wood 2x4. I am considering welding the nuts to the
studs, then turning out all the studs, if space permits.
Anyone have a better way?–
kevinh
Detroit, MI, United States
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In reply to a message from kevinh sent Mon 10 Oct 2016:
Might as well give it a try. Only costs you a set of
studs. The heat from welding should help to clean any
corrosion that may be around the studs. Assuming you are
taking to a machine shop for valve seat/guide work, you
might as well extract all the studs to surface any of the
flange faces that might be rough. When they hot tank the
head to clean it manifold should also fall off. Hitting
stuff with hammer can get expensive.–
Kris Gamble
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In reply to a message from Steve Williams sent Mon 10 Oct 2016:
I remove studs as standard by using the double nut method,
grinding some nuts to ~3/4 thickness, you may need a few, as
the nut threads are sacrificial. Penetrant and/or heat
first, then anti-seize on the threads–
The original message included these comments:
If you can double nut with thin nuts or use a stud remover
or even vise grips that would be preferred vs. welding.
In reply to a message from awg sent Mon 10 Oct 2016:
I had the same thing on an XK140 head. I got out all the
studs but one with the double nut method. That one was
totally corroded, and the little bit of exposed stud snapped
off. I rigged up a way to suspend the manifold on jack
stands with the head dangling below, so all the weight of
the head was pulling on that one stud. Then I did alternate
heating with a propane torch and soaking with PB Blaster
penetrating oil and tapping it with a hammer and punch. It
took about a month of doing that every couple of days, but
eventually it freed up.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
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In reply to a message from awg sent Mon 10 Oct 2016:
Thanks for all the responses. I considered the double
nutting, but it seems like some of the spots would be too
tight. I will try and see what happens. Perhaps a
combination approach will be called for: Double nut where
there is space and welding where tight.
I found studs and nuts at xks.com. I parts seems reasonable,
but $15 shipping for a few ounces of hardware seems excessive.–
kevinh
Detroit, MI, United States
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I am with you 100% on your technique,especially the many day part. Also
keep trying to rotate in both directions.
There is an additional tool that is very helpful for those jobs where there
is room for it – the Vise Grip 7LW.
With the 7LW on the lower nut, you can beat on it with a hammer and never
round the nut.
Gene McGough
XK-150 FHC S834515DN
XJ6C II 1976----- Original Message -----
From: “Rob Reilly” xk120us4@sbcglobal.net
To: xk-engine@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 10:09 AM
I had the same thing on an XK140 head. I got out all the
studs but one with the double nut method. That one was
totally corroded, and the little bit of exposed stud snapped
off. I rigged up a way to suspend the manifold on jack
stands with the head dangling below, so all the weight of
the head was pulling on that one stud. Then I did alternate
heating with a propane torch and soaking with PB Blaster
penetrating oil and tapping it with a hammer and punch. It
took about a month of doing that every couple of days, but
eventually it freed up.
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
In reply to a message from kevinh sent Tue 11 Oct 2016:
Buy more stuff and amortise the shipping across more
parts. I’ll wager they have rationalised shipping options
to save money overall, which means you too can win if you
shop carefully. I remember getting something the size of a
ball point refill in a box about a cubic foot one time,
from a mail order vendor. It was ridiculous to ship me 1
cu/ft of fresh air, but they probably ship 75% of orders
in that size or one bigger size and it must save on
stocking and time to cut the options down to a few sizes.–
The original message included these comments:
but $15 shipping for a few ounces of hardware seems excessive.
In reply to a message from Gene McGough sent Tue 11 Oct 2016:
When I was preparing to pull and redo my xk motor, I bought
a stud remover/installer set (the type with internal
rollers). It cost $45 and it’s been a godsend for working on
old British and Italian cars. You can use them by hand to
install studs without damaging the threads and I noticed
that they are deep enough to usually grab the smooth shank
below the threads on things like XK manifold studs. KD tools
71460 (8 pcs, metric and sae).–
John
Boston, MA, United States
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While it could happen, I’ve never seen corrosion bad enough involving the studs that would keep me from removing the intake but I suppose it’s possible.
What will Plan B consist of if this doesn’t work?
The only thing left would be gasket adhesion/corrosion, which is what my guess is and won’t be helped by stud removal, plus it’s a more likely possibility,
How about running the nuts onto the studs until they are flush with the end of the stud then solidly tapping on the end of the studs with a hammer while having someone hold the intake manifold steady. The idea to break loose the studs from the annular space they occupy in the manifold.
Besides all the other good info you’ve received I’d make sure every stud and the perimeter of the gasket area gets a liberal
soaking of PB Blaster.