[xk] Front suspension

Thanks for this, Bob. So:

Green section is 34cm and it is for setting the torsion bar.
Green section plus the bushing is 39.7cm and it is for setting camber.

Am I correct? Thanks.

john

John…you have it the wrong way around…green plus the bush 39.7 for the torsion bar setting…re read Bobs post above…Steve

Okay. Back to the drawing board. Thank you very much, gents.

john

Bob,
Would you say it is absolutely necessary for the distance piece B to C to be threaded?

Thanks everyone. I reset my torsion bars at the 39.7cm mark, which basically means the wishbones drooping as far down as they will go. I have also loosened all eight nuts, to be tightened after the car is completed. Can the camber be set without the car’s weight?

john

Pas du tout, Bernard. You can use any piece of steel pipe that fits over the threaded section as long as it’s strong enough. See also my sketch. As you can see, I welded an M16 x 80 bolt (apologies to all “Imperial friends”) at the end of the steel bar and used a thick wall steel pipe with an ID of just over 16 mm. It’s all held together by the nut on top.

Bonne chance et salutations,

Bob K.

image

Hi John…yes…camber and castor can be set without the cars weight…its detailed in the service manual…you use the shorter length of the distance piece…however this is a good starting place for settings but expect to adjust them when the car is completed …Steve

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Merci Bob,
I’m trying to make the “simple” tool even simpler, as I have a feeling I’ll use it only once in my lifetime, but I understand it is necessary to set up the front suspension correctly. I dread to take apart the torsion bars, which I have to do to replace all the bushings and rubbers of the front end. Buying the new parts was the easy part.

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Hi Bernard…you dont even need a tool as well made as Bobs…all you need to do is get the lower wishbone in a position equal to the dimensions of the tool…you could just use a suitable piece of wood or a large turn buckle( or 2 small ones joined) with the top altered to fit your situation…here is an idea of one fitted on an E type

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Just FYI… Moss Motors sway bar bushing on the left and Welsh Jaguar on the right. The Moss one is useless as you run out of threads before the nut is tight. BTW, can you use a pair of these at the top of each tube shock?

john

I joined this forum in October 2021 starting with the carcass in the first photo. Now, we have come this far… thanks to the people of this forum. Although, I have the brakes, gearbox and motor still to go in, I think it’s come pretty far, considering my three-month sabbatical (for our bathroom remodel). Cheers.

john



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Looks like you’re doing very nice work, John - congrats!

Now that my car has been well cleaned, and dry ice blasted, I am ready to attack the rebuilding of my front suspension and steering box. However, Moss is out of the correct, rubber upper A-frame bushings, with no replacement date in sight. I only need 7 of the 8 required. Is there another source for these original style bushings; the ones with the steel “top hat” inserted.
I’m also wondering if the expensive “Lemforder brand” upper ball joint is the prefered method? I plan to use the car a lot, and spirited. The Lemforder just seems so much more expensive, and for what?
TIA, RF.

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And do the lower BJ with the later XJ40 style at the same time, unless you are both a perfectionist and have masochistic tendencies :innocent:

Actually I plan on replacing EVERYTHING on the front suspension, including rebuilding the steering box. Is there a difference or advantage on using a later XJ40 (what ever that is?) lower BJ as opposed to the XK120 unit?
Thanks ,RF.

THAT’s the one I referenced, above, but missed your topic of the upper BJ.

The lower is sealed, less messy, and more durable.

Are you certain the XJ40 lower ball joint will fit in an XK120? Different bolt spacing, I thought?
Certainly add grease fittings if you don’t already have them.


Lower ball joint sockets made of Ferrobestos without grease nipples were a perennial problem with the 120 until they went back to Morganite bronze and nipples. Now the sockets are nylon.
Upper ball joints don’t get worn out nearly as quick. Mine are still the originals.

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You could well be correct on that Rob, looks like the bolt pattern is more square?

The xj40 lower balljoint is a common replacement for E type. …not XK,s as above different bolt spaceing shape. …Steve

Hi Fred…your best bet is to contact the usual suppliers to see if anyone has them in stock…probably a set would be easier to get than just 7 of the 8…Lemford is a good brand…in my opinion you will get a better product than an un branded cheaper balljoint…Steve