There is only one generator (dynamo) adjustment link C.2286
listed for all XK120, 140 and Mark VII. Reference Viart page
202 and Urs volume 1 page 93.
Early 150 also used this one, then they changed to C.13838
but unfortunately I have no picture to reference.
My 120 has a link somewhat longer than the pictures in Viart
and Urs. Overall length is 5-3/8’’ with a slot 3-1/2’’ long
and triangular shape like the pictures.
My spare 140 engine has a straight bar link, not triangular.
Overall length 5-1/2’’ long and 7/8’’ wide with a 3-3/8’’ slot
and it is not flat, has a jog or s-bend offset near the
round hole end.
Mark V pushrod engines have a triangular one 7’’ long with a
2’’ slot.
Anyone have one like either of mine, or have comments or
thoughts?–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Rob Reilly sent Thu 4 Feb 2016:
Not the easiest thing to measure when mounted on the car,
but mine appears to be exactly 5 inches when measuring the
outside dimensions of longest leg of the triangle. The
inner slot appears to be 3-3/8 inches.–
Mike Balch
Iowa, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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In reply to a message from Mike Balch sent Thu 4 Feb 2016:
I just checked on my 140 and it has a straight 3/4 by 5/32
inch bar that is 4-7/8 inches long and the slot is 2-1/2
long. It is nothing like shown in the book, but apparently
my car had several factory added racing options and this
different bar might just have been another?
Cheers
Harv–
The original message included these comments:
but mine appears to be exactly 5 inches when measuring the
inner slot appears to be 3-3/8 inches.
The adjustable range is quite short, so I can readily believe a later
version would have been longer.
Gene McGough
XK-150 FHC S834515DN
XJ6C II 1976----- Original Message -----
From: “Rob Reilly” xk120us4@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 10:45 AM
There is only one generator (dynamo) adjustment link C.2286
listed for all XK120, 140 and Mark VII. Reference Viart page
202 and Urs volume 1 page 93.
Early 150 also used this one, then they changed to C.13838
but unfortunately I have no picture to reference.
My 120 has a link somewhat longer than the pictures in Viart
and Urs. Overall length is 5-3/8’’ with a slot 3-1/2’’ long
and triangular shape like the pictures.
My spare 140 engine has a straight bar link, not triangular.
Overall length 5-1/2’’ long and 7/8’’ wide with a 3-3/8’’ slot
and it is not flat, has a jog or s-bend offset near the
round hole end.
Mark V pushrod engines have a triangular one 7’’ long with a
2’’ slot.
Anyone have one like either of mine, or have comments or
thoughts?
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
The adjustable range is quite short, so I can readily believe a later
version would have been longer.
Gene McGough
XK-150 FHC S834515DN
XJ6C II 1976
----- Original Message -----
From: “Rob Reilly” xk120us4@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 10:45 AM
There is only one generator (dynamo) adjustment link C.2286
listed for all XK120, 140 and Mark VII. Reference Viart page
202 and Urs volume 1 page 93.
Early 150 also used this one, then they changed to C.13838
but unfortunately I have no picture to reference.
My 120 has a link somewhat longer than the pictures in Viart
and Urs. Overall length is 5-3/8’’ with a slot 3-1/2’’ long
and triangular shape like the pictures.
My spare 140 engine has a straight bar link, not triangular.
Overall length 5-1/2’’ long and 7/8’’ wide with a 3-3/8’’ slot
and it is not flat, has a jog or s-bend offset near the
round hole end.
Mark V pushrod engines have a triangular one 7’’ long with a
2’’ slot.
Anyone have one like either of mine, or have comments or
thoughts?
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7357 / Virus Database: 4522/11560 - Release Date: 02/05/16
In reply to a message from Rob Reilly sent Thu 4 Feb 2016:
Rob,
The adjustment link on my car (1951 XK120 FHC, engine #3340-8)is approximately 3-3/4’’ long with a 2-1/2’’ slot. Its
shape appears to match the one in Viart XK120 Explored, p.
202. That is quite a bit smaller than yours.
Brad,
Thanks for the favorable comments. My education as a chemist introduced me
to the hand tools of drafting, but no real experience. Modern day CAD
allows me to make good drawings or bad ones with equal facility. Still
learning.
Gene McGough----- Original Message -----
From: “Brad & Alison Smith” brad.alison@kos.net
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 1:00 PM
As a Mech. Eng. and former draftsman I really love to see beautiful
accurate drawings such as this.
Nice work.
Brad Smith
Ontario, Canada
XK140MC FHC
-----Original Message-----
From: Gene McGough
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 1:58 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] Generator Adjustment Link
The adjustable range is quite short, so I can readily believe a later
version would have been longer.
Gene McGough
XK-150 FHC S834515DN
XJ6C II 1976
----- Original Message -----
From: “Rob Reilly” xk120us4@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 10:45 AM
There is only one generator (dynamo) adjustment link C.2286
listed for all XK120, 140 and Mark VII. Reference Viart page
202 and Urs volume 1 page 93.
Early 150 also used this one, then they changed to C.13838
but unfortunately I have no picture to reference.
My 120 has a link somewhat longer than the pictures in Viart
and Urs. Overall length is 5-3/8’’ with a slot 3-1/2’’ long
and triangular shape like the pictures.
My spare 140 engine has a straight bar link, not triangular.
Overall length 5-1/2’’ long and 7/8’’ wide with a 3-3/8’’ slot
and it is not flat, has a jog or s-bend offset near the
round hole end.
Mark V pushrod engines have a triangular one 7’’ long with a
2’’ slot.
Anyone have one like either of mine, or have comments or
thoughts?
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
In reply to a message from Gene McGough sent Fri 5 Feb 2016:
Gene,
It is a nice looking drawing, for sure.
Might I suggest that the next step is to walk yourself through
the operations necessary to make the part and see if this leads
to improving the drawing by adding some additional dimensions
aimed at helping the machinist who will have to make it, either
by hand or by writing the commands for a CAM setup.
By way of example, it would be a helpful shortcut to indicate
the location of the center of the 0.34’’ hole to the right so
that person making the piece would not have to figure that out
from the information in hand.–
karl
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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Karl,
As you well know, I already had two undisclosed dimensions:
The hole is concentric with the rounded end.
The center of the drill which establishes the end of the slot is 7/16" from
the other rounded end while obeying the 0.233" offset from the edge.
Your point about how to set up to manufacture such an item is well-taken.
Perhaps it would be useful first to establish the position of the hole and
slot on a blank piece of metal, then the periferal cuts. I was debating
myself where I would make the first cut (by hand).
Not knowing the required parameters for a CAM operation, this student awaits
the advanced course.
Gene McGough----- Original Message -----
From: “karl” klkirkman@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 7:38 PM
Gene,
It is a nice looking drawing, for sure.
Might I suggest that the next step is to walk yourself through
the operations necessary to make the part and see if this leads
to improving the drawing by adding some additional dimensions
aimed at helping the machinist who will have to make it, either
by hand or by writing the commands for a CAM setup.
By way of example, it would be a helpful shortcut to indicate
the location of the center of the 0.34’’ hole to the right so
that person making the piece would not have to figure that out
from the information in hand.
In reply to a message from Gene McGough sent Fri 5 Feb 2016:
Gene,
Thanks for taking my suggestion in the spirit intended.
My training as a draftsman was to build the item in your head.
In your case, start with a piece of metal and think through how
you would make it in a shop - and what dimensions you would
need to do that.
In the case of the concentric hole, the steps would be to mark
the location of the center of the hole on the piece of metal,
and then select a bit and drill the hole. A machinist has no
direct way of finding what you call ‘‘concentric’’ that is not
quite cumbersome, and would probably mark and drill the center
hole first in any case.
This may not be widely known, but typical shop rules are DO NOT
SCALE A DRAWING - not now, not ever, never. Therefore, for the
guy making the part, the location of the hole center you
mention would make it easier for him to build than doing the
trig to get to it backwards.
I think it is a good rule when designing anything to think
through in your head the actual steps one would take to build
it. Saves a lot of work and mistakes because the mental
exercise calls attention to important details about the
manufacturing and will almost always improve the design.
Please do not take this as criticism, just passing along hard
earned experience.
I am 70 + years old and retired, and yet I still spent much of
yesterday morning laying out the design of a welded metal frame
to support a dumbwaiter tracks we are adding to our house
In reply to a message from karl sent Sat 6 Feb 2016:
Nice drawing, Gene.
Only 3 weeks into retirement and already I miss the CAD
program we had at the Lab. Guess I’ll have to get one for my
home computer. Any recommendations for a free one?
This thread originated when I noticed several of you have
had difficulty with figuring out which fan belt to use and
had trouble getting it on. Mine has always been easy enough.
It would seem to be because I have such a long slot.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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In reply to a message from karl sent Fri 5 Feb 2016:
By coincidence I recently had 2 of these links made… for an SS
3 1/2 litre engine which is exactly the same principle, but
slightly different dimensions.
I doubt anyone would machine one these days when laser
cutting involves a fairly nominal charge. A CAD programme
should be exportable to a DXF which can be emailed direct to
one’s favourite laser cutting establishment.
I think all the info required for the road map the laser will
follow is included without all the dimensions being visible. As
long as it’s drawn on a 1 to 1 scale. I’ve done literally 100s
of Jaguar parts on this basis.
One could theoretically have it cut on the other side of the
planet. Draw the programme, email the file, pay by credit card
and they post it to you.
And that principle can be extended . On Fri the postman
brought me two 1/4’’ long series, end mills. From Hong Kong.
Under AU$ 2 ea including postage… Double Happy , as the
Chinese say.–
The original message included these comments:
It is a nice looking drawing, for sure.
Might I suggest that the next step is to walk yourself through
the operations necessary to make the part and see if this leads
to improving the drawing by adding some additional dimensions
aimed at helping the machinist who will have to make it, either
by hand or by writing the commands for a CAM setup.
By way of example, it would be a helpful shortcut to indicate
the location of the center of the 0.34’’ hole to the right so
that person making the piece would not have to figure that out
from the information in hand.
I have DoubleCAD XT 5.0. Wish I knew how to use more of the features. They
have a Pro version as well.
Gene McGough----- Original Message -----
From: “Rob Reilly” xk120us4@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 12:05 PM
Nice drawing, Gene.
Only 3 weeks into retirement and already I miss the CAD
program we had at the Lab. Guess I’ll have to get one for my
home computer. Any recommendations for a free one?
This thread originated when I noticed several of you have
had difficulty with figuring out which fan belt to use and
had trouble getting it on. Mine has always been easy enough.
It would seem to be because I have such a long slot.
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
A couple years back I misplaced a simple spacer strap for my XJ6C. At the
time a college kid next door had a computerized plasma cutter. He drew up a
CAD drawing and made a very nice piece for me. Sadly, he has moved on and
has sold his equipment.
Gene McGough----- Original Message -----
From: “Ed Nantes” enantes@bigpond.com
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 7:48 PM
By coincidence I recently had 2 of these links made… for an SS
3 1/2 litre engine which is exactly the same principle, but
slightly different dimensions.
I doubt anyone would machine one these days when laser
cutting involves a fairly nominal charge. A CAD programme
should be exportable to a DXF which can be emailed direct to
one’s favourite laser cutting establishment.
I think all the info required for the road map the laser will
follow is included without all the dimensions being visible. As
long as it’s drawn on a 1 to 1 scale. I’ve done literally 100s
of Jaguar parts on this basis.
One could theoretically have it cut on the other side of the
planet. Draw the programme, email the file, pay by credit card
and they post it to you.
And that principle can be extended . On Fri the postman
brought me two 1/4’’ long series, end mills. From Hong Kong.
Under AU$ 2 ea including postage… Double Happy , as the
Chinese say.
–
The original message included these comments:
It is a nice looking drawing, for sure.
Might I suggest that the next step is to walk yourself through
the operations necessary to make the part and see if this leads
to improving the drawing by adding some additional dimensions
aimed at helping the machinist who will have to make it, either
by hand or by writing the commands for a CAM setup.
By way of example, it would be a helpful shortcut to indicate
the location of the center of the 0.34’’ hole to the right so
that person making the piece would not have to figure that out
from the information in hand.
In reply to a message from Rob Reilly sent Sat 6 Feb 2016:
Rob,
My problem with belts that are too short and that would not
slip over the edge of the pulleys would not be solved by a
longer slot. I disengaged the generator from the link and
pushed it up against the engine and still couldn’t get those
belts to stretch over the pulley. The B36 was the only one
that fits and I stayed with it. On the other hand, the
TR24400 was too loose and a longer slot might have made the
difference for that one.
I still don’t understand why your belt wouldn’t fit on my
system even though we have the same pulley sizes.
As they say, ‘‘If the belt fits, wear it!’’–
The original message included these comments:
This thread originated when I noticed several of you have
had difficulty with figuring out which fan belt to use and
had trouble getting it on. Mine has always been easy enough.
It would seem to be because I have such a long slot.
In reply to a message from CarlH sent Sun 7 Feb 2016:
Carl,
Perhaps someone in a parts department somewhere managed to switch
belts between two cardboard sleeves and yours, or Robs, is not
what it was labelled ?
Karl–
The original message included these comments:
I still don’t understand why your belt wouldn’t fit on my
system even though we have the same pulley sizes.
In reply to a message from Gene McGough sent Fri 5 Feb 2016:
These days all you need to get a simple 2D part like this
made is an accurate undimentioned full scale electronic
drawing of the part. Upload the drawing to any one of the
dozens of the water jet metal fabrication shops on the
Internet and you will have an instant price quote. If you
like the price, pay for it and in 5-7 days it will show up
at your door. I had a set of header flanges cut from 3/8
stainless steel plate by Big Blue Saw. The cost was
roughly $100 and I had the parts in 4 days.–
The original message included these comments:
slot on a blank piece of metal, then the periferal cuts. I was debating
myself where I would make the first cut (by hand).
Not knowing the required parameters for a CAM operation, this student awaits
the advanced course.
In reply to a message from Mike S sent Sun 7 Feb 2016:
My mystery is solved.
I removed my link to measure it more accurately and compare
with Gene’s drawing. After cleaning off all the grunge, I
discovered four welds. It has been modified.
It appears to have started life as a standard C.2286 link,
but some clever PO must have been frustrated at the meager
provision for fan belt adjustment. He cut it through near
the far end of the slot, and added two steel bars about
3/16’’ x 1/4’’ x 1-3/8’’ long. He made a pretty good job of it,
probably chamfered the cut ends to get full penetration
welds, then welded all around the four places, and then
ground all the weld surfaces down so it is pretty smooth and
not really noticeable unless you look for it.