Thanks Rick. The more I hear about this process the more it makes me wary
of starting, but start I must. Wish me luck!
Bob-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
holland-rick@juno.com
Sent: June 02, 2009 11:10 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] Another Door Question - XK120 FHC
Bob,
It’s my take on the 120 hinge (did a DHC) that you first need to
ascertain the possibility of removing the pivot pin from the box and arm.
If you can, the job is relatively smooth. If you can’t and the pin is
partially broken or “frozen” into the arm and defies removal the “box”
cannot be withdrawn.
Most of us have encountered frozen or broken pins of some sort and one of
the simplest ways seems be to actually saw through the arm and pin from
the outside at the hinge pillar before loosening the 8 bolts and nuts
holding the box in position. Sometimes the saw can be started on the pin
itself if the box is spread open with a suitable wedged tool (bent with a
flat blade screw driver). Sometimes it is impossible to do this as the
pin although frozen in the arm still has both ends.
In these cases you can saw the “boss” on the arm, then on through the
pin. Once one end of the pin is off, the other side can be addressed.
After the arm is removed the box can be loosed (2 wrenches), first from
the hinge pillar then inside from cowling support channel. It is likely
that some of the fasteners are frozen too. It is often better to snap
(break) them with a good fitting set of six point wrenches than rounding
them. They are hard to get with a saw or grinder and too close to the
skin to burn.
The sawn arm boss can be trued after the pin stub is removed and shimmed
for reuse after the
box is removed and fixed. I made a pair of hinge boxes from “scratch”
turning the stand offs on a large drill press with files and bending the
plate in a bench vise with the aid of a BFH. The most important
measurement focuses on the location of the pivot pin hole. If the pins
are not in their proper place the door won’t (can’t) be in it’s place
either. If you re-pin them or install bushings of any sort, don’t make
them too precise. IMHO, the hinge needs a little “slop” for latching and
to minimize strain (flexing) of the pillar or the door.
Regards,
Rick
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