[xk] How to loosen xk120 fuel tank filter/drain bung?

No fuel to pump, so think the filter is clogged.

Bung is stuck hard to looking for ideas on how to loosen.

I first tried with my small impact driver (Makita 18v), then
stepped it up to a pneumatic driver, but still with no sign
whatsoever of movement. Concerned that I am going to rip
the fuel tank open!

Thanks,
Peter–
Peterbange
Brisbane, Australia
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

In reply to a message from Peterbange sent Tue 12 Apr 2016:

That is indeed possible.

Can you blow an air line reverse direction to see if that
clears it?

If it is that blocked , it seems to indicate that there is a
lot of muck in there. And where did it come from? tank
corroding.

Good news may be that the ones I have seen have mainly
corroded at the very bottom around the bung… the lowest point
where water collected.
If you do get it out , one way or another, replace it with an
XJ 6 version that has a small drain plug in the centre of the
bung.–
The original message included these comments:

whatsoever of movement. Concerned that I am going to rip
the fuel tank open!


Ed Nantes SS
Melbourne, Australia
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In reply to a message from Peterbange sent Tue 12 Apr 2016:

I assume that the tank is still in the car? I think your only
choice at this juncture is to remove, drain, purge (very
important!) and heat the flange with a torch to break the bond.
You can purge it inexpensively with a couple of kilos of dry ice.
As the dry ice sublimates, it will produce carbon dioxide gas,
displacing the gasoline fumes and oxygen inside the tank.–
The original message included these comments:

Bung is stuck hard to looking for ideas on how to loosen.
I first tried with my small impact driver (Makita 18v), then
stepped it up to a pneumatic driver, but still with no sign
whatsoever of movement. Concerned that I am going to rip
the fuel tank open!


Mike Spoelker
Louisville,Kentucky, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Peter,

It IS possible to rip the entire drain assembly from the tank. BTDT.

Ed’s idea of blowing backwards through the fuel line may give you a way to
drain down the tank.

Now, it is not corrosion that has the plug stuck; it is residue from
evaporated fuel. So the usual penetrating fluids are useless. Carburetor
cleaner may help.

Before I would go to the trouble of pulling the tank, I would try holding a
chunk of dry ice against the plug to cool it down. Then try your pneumatic
impact, short of destructive power. In both directions.

Gene McGough
XK-150 FHC S834515DN
XJ6C II 1976----- Original Message -----
From: “Mike S” getmws@bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 8:58 AM

In reply to a message from Peterbange sent Tue 12 Apr 2016:

I assume that the tank is still in the car? I think your only
choice at this juncture is to remove, drain, purge (very
important!) and heat the flange with a torch to break the bond.
You can purge it inexpensively with a couple of kilos of dry ice.
As the dry ice sublimates, it will produce carbon dioxide gas,
displacing the gasoline fumes and oxygen inside the tank.

The original message included these comments:

Bung is stuck hard to looking for ideas on how to loosen.
I first tried with my small impact driver (Makita 18v), then
stepped it up to a pneumatic driver, but still with no sign
whatsoever of movement. Concerned that I am going to rip
the fuel tank open!

Mike Spoelker
Louisville,Kentucky, United States

In reply to a message from Gene McGough sent Tue 12 Apr 2016:

Before busting into the tank, have you checked the little filters
in your fuel pump?–
John Feser
Marshall, Virginia, United States
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In reply to a message from unimogjohn sent Tue 12 Apr 2016:

A good suggestion, John. If that and Ed’s air test indicate
a genuine clog up in the drain plug, I had the same thing,
the plug was so full of ultra fine rust dust it blocked the
pickup tube. The dust never got to the inline filter I had
before the pump. Fortunately my plug came out easy.

Then the principle applies, better to destroy the cheap
easily replaced part (drain plug) to save the expensive hard
to replace part (tank bung).–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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Peter B;
I had the same problem… Ultimately I tried using a hammer and
chisle to “chew-out” the brass drain plug… Tore off the steel ring
of threads and ended-up buying a new repop fuel tank…
I wish you better luck…
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Peterbange”

No fuel to pump, so think the filter is clogged.

Bung is stuck hard to looking for ideas on how to loosen.

I first tried with my small impact driver (Makita 18v), then
stepped it up to a pneumatic driver, but still with no sign
whatsoever of movement. Concerned that I am going to rip
the fuel tank open!

Thanks,
Peter

Peterbange
Brisbane, Australia

On one of my Jags I removed the tank, purged it and unsoldered the threaded
ring and bung assembly from the bottom. Then I clamped the bung in a vice
and heated the ring with a torch. In a short while I was able to spin it
off the bung easily. Then I cleaned the ring and soldered it back onto the
tank. Then I had the tank internally coated.

Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA

'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2> No fuel to pump, so think the filter is clogged.

Bung is stuck hard to looking for ideas on how to loosen.

I first tried with my small impact driver (Makita 18v), then
stepped it up to a pneumatic driver, but still with no sign
whatsoever of movement. Concerned that I am going to rip
the fuel tank open!

Thanks,
Peter

In reply to a message from cb@XKTX.Org sent Tue 12 Apr 2016:

The tank we have just done had the bung well and truly in
at some stage and had ben damaged at a previous attempt to
remove.

This was a MK IV tank but that part is common . We just
bought a second hand MK VII tank. Bit of rust in the bottom
as most have but the prices are minimal, most being glad
for someone to take a rusty tank away. Cut out that
section , removed the bronze pat at leisure and rivetted
and soldered it in the old tank , The drain section where
the filter lives is just 2’’ pipe [ off cut from exhaust
pipe.

What we did find was that in previous attempts to remove
it, someone had gripped the outer section so tightly it had
distorted the female thread.

I always put the bung in the lathe held by the hex and
face the mating surface. The pressure of being done up
tight has usually distorted the face.–
The original message included these comments:

I had the same problem… Ultimately I tried using a hammer and
chisle to ‘‘chew-out’’ the brass drain plug… Tore off the steel ring
of threads and ended-up buying a new repop fuel tank…


Ed Nantes SS
Melbourne, Australia
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

This is not Jaguar related, but a good thing to keep in mind.
Last WE a good friend was telling me a very sad story.

His friend was in his pit cleaning the car fuel tank to locate a leak.
His wire brush produced a spark which ignited the tank and the whole
thing exploded.
The guy could not escape his pit and was burned to death.
Scary, isn’t it … ?
Lesson to keep in mind …

Francis Thibaud

Peter,

Do it the way Mike Eck advises otherwise if the tank is still in the car
try blowing backwards to clear it then after empty "ice it up with CO/2 "
, per Ed Nantes and drill and tap the immovable plug and install a small
dia. drain plug in it.

Excessive force will tear out the soldered ring!

Regards,

Rick
writes:On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 03:27:19 -0700 “Peterbange” peter@bange.net.au

No fuel to pump, so think the filter is clogged.

Bung is stuck hard to looking for ideas on how to loosen.

I first tried with my small impact driver (Makita 18v), then
stepped it up to a pneumatic driver, but still with no sign
whatsoever of movement. Concerned that I am going to rip
the fuel tank open!

Thanks,
Peter

Peterbange
Brisbane, Australia
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Beverly Hills MD
How To Boost Your Skin’s Firmness From The Inside Out
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/570de8e41693f68e36f5est04vuc

Gasoline fumes, heavier than air, sink to the bottom of a pit (dangerous as a concept to begin with), and await only a spark; a dropped incandescent trouble light is more than enough to send you to either the hospital or the "Big Garage In The Sky”!

Take care out there.

    The Jag Maven> On Apr 13, 2016, at 12:16 AM, Francis Thibaud <francis@thibaud.fr> wrote:

This is not Jaguar related, but a good thing to keep in mind.
Last WE a good friend was telling me a very sad story.

His friend was in his pit cleaning the car fuel tank to locate a leak.
His wire brush produced a spark which ignited the tank and the whole
thing exploded.
The guy could not escape his pit and was burned to death.
Scary, isn’t it … ?
Lesson to keep in mind …

Francis Thibaud

I struggled with this same problem a while back.
After reading many good descriptions on how best to safely do this and just
as many as to how it can all go so horribly wrong, I decided on the
following:
Remove the tank (Not as bad as it seems) and take it to one of those many
companies that refurbish gas tanks.
They removed the plug, cleaned the tank properly and relined it so that any
future issue would be highly unlikely.
The cost was really quite reasonable, the issue was properly resolved, the
plug can now be removed if needed, and if I was honest:
I don’t have the nerve for these things that I once did.

  • Brad-----Original Message-----
    From: Gary Singer
    Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 10:05 AM
    To: xk@jag-lovers.org
    Subject: Re: [xk] How to loosen xk120 fuel tank filter/drain bung?

Gasoline fumes, heavier than air, sink to the bottom of a pit (dangerous as
a concept to begin with), and await only a spark; a dropped incandescent
trouble light is more than enough to send you to either the hospital or the
"Big Garage In The Sky”!

Take care out there.

    The Jag Maven

On Apr 13, 2016, at 12:16 AM, Francis Thibaud francis@thibaud.fr wrote:

This is not Jaguar related, but a good thing to keep in mind.
Last WE a good friend was telling me a very sad story.

His friend was in his pit cleaning the car fuel tank to locate a leak.
His wire brush produced a spark which ignited the tank and the whole
thing exploded.
The guy could not escape his pit and was burned to death.
Scary, isn’t it … ?
Lesson to keep in mind …

Francis Thibaud


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7497 / Virus Database: 4545/12021 - Release Date: 04/12/16

The dry ice is a great idea, but I am Not sure where one can buy dry ice.
I have a large CO2 fire extinguisher that I use for that purpose, plus
have it handy should I need it for its intended purpose.
Regards, Bob McAnelly,

In reply to a message from Francis Thibaud sent Tue 12 Apr 2016:

Hi All:

With respect to Francis Thibaud’s story, back in 1989 when we
added an additional 16’ to the back of the house, including the
garage, to create more space to accommodate the growing family
I requested that the contractor put in a pit in the enlarged
garage. He told me that he couldn’t as it violated the
building code, for the very reasons Francis described. Also,
the entry from the garage into the house has a 3’’ step, a
measure designed to prevent the possibility of gasoline leaking
into the house, another building code requirement. So, while I
have a spacious 3 car garage with ample room for a work bench,
tyre changer and so on, I still have to resort to a floor
jack, but am alive to tell the tale!

Best regards,

Chris.–
The original message included these comments:

His friend was in his pit cleaning the car fuel tank to locate a leak.
His wire brush produced a spark which ignited the tank and the whole
thing exploded.


CP120
Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Chris;
A quality (NOT asian made) Four Post Lift can be had for under
four grand (US)… I “received” one as a Father’s Day gift a few
years back… I bought a Gemini 7000 (lb rating)… it was a “demo”
used at a Dallas Car Show for a week (I got a “deal” of a price
at three grand!!), it was already assembled, and me being a couple
of miles from the factory (in Burleson, Texas), the owner of
Gemini and a helper brought the assembled unit over on a “low
boy” type trailer… the “four posts” were wider than the trailer…
They backed the trailer into my shop, plugged the motor into a
H-D Extension Cord (12ga wire) I have and “raised” lift
(lowered the legs) off the trailer… The entire process took LESS
than an hour!
The only “downside” is I built my shop with ten foot ceilings…
the lift, with a vehicle, needs at least twelve… fourteen if I lift
my Toyota Landcruiser. That’s the next “project” on the list,
raise the roof of a area over the lift, of my shop. I tried talking
the “Lil Woman” into “allowing” me to add-on to the back of the
shop… a slab there would be two feet lower than my current shop
floor… The lift would act in it’s normal capacity as well as being
an “elevator” to move vehicles and “rollers” from the front area
to the rear area and vice versa…
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “CP120”

Hi All:

With respect to Francis Thibaud’s story, back in 1989 when we
added an additional 16’ to the back of the house, including the
garage, to create more space to accommodate the growing family
I requested that the contractor put in a pit in the enlarged
garage. He told me that he couldn’t as it violated the
building code, for the very reasons Francis described. Also,
the entry from the garage into the house has a 3’’ step, a
measure designed to prevent the possibility of gasoline leaking
into the house, another building code requirement. So, while I
have a spacious 3 car garage with ample room for a work bench,
tyre changer and so on, I still have to resort to a floor
jack, but am alive to tell the tale!

Best regards,

Chris.
Ancaster, Ontario, Canada


The original message included these comments:

His friend was in his pit cleaning the car fuel tank to locate a leak.
His wire brush produced a spark which ignited the tank and the whole
thing exploded.

Chris
IF you have or can make room, I can, but second what Charles said.
These lifts are if not life, certainly back savers of the first order.
In our previous house the clear ceiling height was only a little over 10’,
so I had to cut a hole in the attic floor for the OTS windshield to enable
the stacking of both 140ies.
So, when we began looking four years ago for another house, a taller
garage became one of the " must haves" and I lucked out getting 16 1/2’
which allows me to stack both with ease or stand up straight when working
under either of them. A vast improvement from laying on a cold
concrete floor in a CT winter.
Best
Klaus
812394
815666BWOn 4/13/16 2:42 PM, “owner-xk@jag-lovers.org on behalf of cb@XKTX.Org” <owner-xk@jag-lovers.org on behalf of cb@XKTX.Org> wrote:

Chris;
A quality (NOT asian made) Four Post Lift can be had for under
four grand (US)… I “received” one as a Father’s Day gift a few
years back… I bought a Gemini 7000 (lb rating)… it was a “demo”
used at a Dallas Car Show for a week (I got a “deal” of a price
at three grand!!), it was already assembled, and me being a couple
of miles from the factory (in Burleson, Texas), the owner of
Gemini and a helper brought the assembled unit over on a “low
boy” type trailer… the “four posts” were wider than the trailer…
They backed the trailer into my shop, plugged the motor into a
H-D Extension Cord (12ga wire) I have and “raised” lift
(lowered the legs) off the trailer… The entire process took LESS
than an hour!
The only “downside” is I built my shop with ten foot ceilings…
the lift, with a vehicle, needs at least twelve… fourteen if I lift
my Toyota Landcruiser. That’s the next “project” on the list,
raise the roof of a area over the lift, of my shop. I tried talking
the “Lil Woman” into “allowing” me to add-on to the back of the
shop… a slab there would be two feet lower than my current shop
floor… The lift would act in it’s normal capacity as well as being
an “elevator” to move vehicles and “rollers” from the front area
to the rear area and vice versa…
Charles #677556.

----- Original Message -----
From: “CP120”

Hi All:

With respect to Francis Thibaud’s story, back in 1989 when we
added an additional 16’ to the back of the house, including the
garage, to create more space to accommodate the growing family
I requested that the contractor put in a pit in the enlarged
garage. He told me that he couldn’t as it violated the
building code, for the very reasons Francis described. Also,
the entry from the garage into the house has a 3’’ step, a
measure designed to prevent the possibility of gasoline leaking
into the house, another building code requirement. So, while I
have a spacious 3 car garage with ample room for a work bench,
tyre changer and so on, I still have to resort to a floor
jack, but am alive to tell the tale!

Best regards,

Chris.
Ancaster, Ontario, Canada


The original message included these comments:

His friend was in his pit cleaning the car fuel tank to locate a leak.
His wire brush produced a spark which ignited the tank and the whole
thing exploded.

In reply to a message from Peterbange sent Tue 12 Apr 2016:

Thanks for all the info and advice.

Before I did anything further I decided to re-look at the
fuel pump. I had cleaned the pump of debris a few months
back, so had assumed that everything was all ok.

As soon as I unscrewed the fuel line coming from the tank,
fuel started flowing freely. So clearly my thinking that
the tank filter was clogged was mistaken.

Lesson here to check the easy things first and don’t
necessarily assume anything.

As it turns out it was a stuck inlet valve inside the fuel
pump. Cleaned this out and everything is running fine.

Will leave the fuel tank drain well alone until the need
arises to remove the tank. At this point will do a proper
clean and reline as advised.

Cheers,
Peter–
Peterbange
Brisbane, Australia
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from cb@XKTX.Org sent Wed 13 Apr 2016:

Hi Charles/Klaus:

I hear you! I would love to have a hoist to prevent crawling
around on cold concrete (particularly given my advancing
years), however, I simply do no have the ceiling clearance.
Three steel I-beams, two from the original garage and one in
the ‘new’ segment very effectively prevent the installation of
same. On the plus side, I can complete the annual oil change
on the XK without using the floor jack, admittedly I do have to
lay down on what we refer to as the ‘linen creeper’ (a folded
bed sheet, of which several exist in the ‘loft’ for just such
occasions, or for use as wing protectors, or drapes when spray
painting bits etc.). If I was doing it all again…

Best regards,

Chris.

PS Charles, it must be nice getting gifts like that on Father’s
Day!!–
The original message included these comments:

A quality (NOT asian made) Four Post Lift can be had for under
four grand (US)… I ‘‘received’’ one as a Father’s Day gift a few
years back… I bought a Gemini 7000 (lb rating)… it was a ‘‘demo’’


CP120
Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

PS Charles, it must be nice getting gifts like that on Father’s
Day!!

Chris;
Trust me, gifts like the Four Post Lift do NOT come around
every year… not even every decade… in fact, in the (almost)
fifty years we’ve been married, it’s only happened ONCE!!
I guess that’s what makes it so special ;-}
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “CP120”