[xk] Issues with my new 140

The clutchpedal is leaning forward (towards me, the driver). The
brake pedal stands upright, and the clutch pedal should too, I
imagine. Is this an easy fix? Best done from under the car (on a
lift)?

The trunklid won�t shut properly. It is held in position by its own
weight. There is no ‘‘click’’ or other means of assuring the proper,
closed position.

The heater switch, (fast slow) makes no difference to the amount of
hot air entering the window vent channels (with the lids of the
heater closed). I have opened the tap in the engine bay and there
is some heat coming, esp when driving fast. An electrical issue no
doubt.

The bonnet release cable has given up. I think I found a way of
opening with my fingers, but need to look into this. It did work a
while ago. All parts are new.

Thankful for any tips here…–
peder
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

How new (OLD) is yuor 140 and which model is it?..I have a 55 140 FHC

I have just reassembled most of these things after a lengthy frame-off
restoration, so they should be fresh in my mind.

The clutch and brake pedal stems insert into the arms which pivot on shafts
attached to the chassis …and then closer to this point are connections to
the brake master and clutch operating linkage. If the return springs that
are attached to the arms are healthy, both arms should stop against the
underside of the firewall.

The boot (trunk-lid) mechanisms leave a lot to be desired and will require a
bit of tinkering…there are star wheels that engage a couple of “loops” at
either side of the boot floor. The loops are U-Bolts whose position may be
adjusted upwards or downwards with the nuts that secure them to the boot
floor…BUT first I would ensure that the latch button will fuction
properly to release the star whhels other wise once the lid latches shut,
you’d have a very hard time getting it unlatched again. The button on the
handle, when pushed, drives a wedge between two rollers at the ends of arms
which in turn pull on cables which release the star wheels.

The heater switch is either off or slow to fast…and controls the fan.
The top of the core is always open to the demister vents, but on some models
the lower side has flaps that may be opened or closed. Your core may be
clogged if there is insufficient warmth.

The bonnet cable may have stretched a bit or has slid out of where it
attaches to the release mechanism. There is an adjutment barrel there for
some adjustment…otherwise a screwdriver can loosen the attachment bolt
and then the cable can be led farther into the release mechanism and
retightened.

Hope the descriptions help. I have numerous pictures on file and also my car
is handy for more.

Gary-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
peder
Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 10:50 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [xk] Issues with my new 140

The clutchpedal is leaning forward (towards me, the driver). The brake pedal
stands upright, and the clutch pedal should too, I imagine. Is this an easy
fix? Best done from under the car (on a lift)?

The trunklid won´t shut properly. It is held in position by its own weight.
There is no ‘‘click’’ or other means of assuring the proper, closed
position.

The heater switch, (fast slow) makes no difference to the amount of hot air
entering the window vent channels (with the lids of the heater closed). I
have opened the tap in the engine bay and there is some heat coming, esp
when driving fast. An electrical issue no doubt.

The bonnet release cable has given up. I think I found a way of opening with
my fingers, but need to look into this. It did work a while ago. All parts
are new.

Thankful for any tips here…

peder
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

In reply to a message from Gary Otto sent Tue 20 Oct 2009:

Thanks Gary,
it is a fairly newly restored OTS from Dec. 1955.
The clutch pedal has the spring underneath, but that pulls it to
the current ‘‘leaning backwards’’ position. I would want to take the
pedal arm off its splines and reposition it so that it stays
vertical with the aid of the spring. Sounds OK ?

The trunklid�s latch button won�t go all the way down when pushed,
nor will it be locked with the key. I guess I have to remove the
inside panel of the trunklid and begin working methodically…

The heater fan just doesn�t seem to work. I have the one with 2
semi circled lids which can be pulled down to allow hot air to hit
the feet.

I think the stem of the cable release button has come loose. It
came out about 3’’ from the bracket that holds the stem and pulling
knob. A simple? adjustment.

This board is full of knowledgeable and service minded people !!!–
peder
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from peder sent Tue 20 Oct 2009:

I solved the bonnet release cable, but will need to oil/grease the
first bit where the 5’’ long shaft behind the knob, is having a
tough time entering the ‘‘barrel’’ in front of it.
Brand new part totally lacking any lubrication in this section.

I am now working on the trunk lid release mechanism. I have opened
the cable adjustments and see how the system works. The latch
button is having a tough time pushing the pivots apart. I can
easily move them with my fingers but not with the opening button on
the outside handle. It will press down about a third of the
distance.

With quiet surroundings and the ignition on, I now hear the fan
work and heat dissipate. The knob is not very accurate or logical
(logical yes, but one needs to know how much (or little actually)
to move it.

When braking hard the passenger seat back flies forward. I will
drill holes and insert a locking pin between seat rail and back
rest mounting frame to avoid this.

The new front headlights have a milky look on the inside. Light
power is poor because of this. I might change them for concave
Cibi� lights which are the best on the market.–
peder
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Peder,

No “splines” to adjust for your Clutch Pedal Angle.

The angle of your Clutch Pedal is determined by your CLUTCH OPERATING SHAFT
(part number C.2429)which is drilled both ends to accept a C.568 Tapered Pin
both ends, secured by lock-wire.

One end secures the Release Bearing Assembly, the other end your Clutch
Pedal, thus the relative positions of holes drilled in OPERATING SHAFT and
thus angle of your Pedal is fixed.

If you think Pedal Angle is wrong, are you sure you have your original
Operating Shaft, if not, is it an accurate repro, or correct XK140
replacement?

Roger Payne - XK140MC OTS; E-Type 4.2 S.1 OTS; DSV8.
Canberra.-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
peder
Sent: Wednesday, 21 October 2009 6:44 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [xk] Issues with my new 140

In reply to a message from Gary Otto sent Tue 20 Oct 2009:

Thanks Gary,
it is a fairly newly restored OTS from Dec. 1955.
The clutch pedal has the spring underneath, but that pulls it to
the current ‘‘leaning backwards’’ position. I would want to take the
pedal arm off its splines and reposition it so that it stays
vertical with the aid of the spring. Sounds OK ?

The trunklid´s latch button won´t go all the way down when pushed,
nor will it be locked with the key. I guess I have to remove the
inside panel of the trunklid and begin working methodically…

The heater fan just doesn´t seem to work. I have the one with 2
semi circled lids which can be pulled down to allow hot air to hit
the feet.

I think the stem of the cable release button has come loose. It
came out about 3’’ from the bracket that holds the stem and pulling
knob. A simple? adjustment.

This board is full of knowledgeable and service minded people !!!

peder
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

You can loosen the screws holding the roller arms under the push button
wedge and move the mechanism backwards and forwards under the button/wedge.
Maybe toward the open ends of the arms would exert more leverage. My latch
button doesn’t really travel very far, just enough to allow the star wheels
to release. It’s a finicky thing. I had mine working right, but when I
reattached the lid liner it pressed on the cables enough to throw the
adjustment off again.

I have Sylvania sealed headlights for now…-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
peder
Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 4:53 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [xk] Issues with my new 140

In reply to a message from peder sent Tue 20 Oct 2009:

I solved the bonnet release cable, but will need to oil/grease the first bit
where the 5’’ long shaft behind the knob, is having a tough time entering
the ‘‘barrel’’ in front of it.
Brand new part totally lacking any lubrication in this section.

I am now working on the trunk lid release mechanism. I have opened the cable
adjustments and see how the system works. The latch button is having a tough
time pushing the pivots apart. I can easily move them with my fingers but
not with the opening button on the outside handle. It will press down about
a third of the distance.

With quiet surroundings and the ignition on, I now hear the fan work and
heat dissipate. The knob is not very accurate or logical (logical yes, but
one needs to know how much (or little actually) to move it.

When braking hard the passenger seat back flies forward. I will drill holes
and insert a locking pin between seat rail and back rest mounting frame to
avoid this.

The new front headlights have a milky look on the inside. Light power is
poor because of this. I might change them for concave Cibié lights which are
the best on the market.

peder
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]-- --Support
Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from Gary Otto sent Tue 20 Oct 2009:

The trunk lid: after 2 hours of tinkering with every piece
involved, I got it working. I moved most parts, cleaned and greased
others, adjusted cable lengths and changed the angle of the plate
holding the release arms to get the wedging action to work.

I now have an issue with the right lock, where the U shaped loop
needs to come down a bit to avoid the current play on that side.
I found the opening under the floor where a spanner can be used to
move upper and lower fixing bolts.

I have not yet mounted the interior cover panel with its 25?
screws. I will check whether this panel will alter the tension of
the wires. Mine are not very tight at the moment so there might be
enough play to allow for the panel, but thanks for the tip.

I even got the trunk light to work, by playing around with the
cables behind the switch. It probably won�t work for very long but
now I know the source of the problem.

The pedal: thanks. I will look at this tomorrow. It is now midnight
here in Sweden. The pedal arm looks old and original?–
peder
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php