I am in the process of finishing a restoration started by the
previous owner. The bodywork is perfect and the car has a coat or
two of Nitro-Cellulose paint on it. The problem is that I can’t
find nitro in the original pastel green to complete the paint job.
I would have used one of the more modern paint types available
today but my options are extremely limited now that the car has the
nitro paint on it. I will be painting the car myself. I am not a
paint expert so I am soliciting input regarding what my options
are. Help!
Thanks,
John Hussey @John_Hussey–
'54 XK120 OTS
Burnt Hills, NY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I am in the process of finishing a restoration started by the
previous owner. The bodywork is perfect and the car has a coat or
two of Nitro-Cellulose paint on it. The problem is that I can’t
find nitro in the original pastel green to complete the paint job.
I would have used one of the more modern paint types available
today but my options are extremely limited now that the car has the
nitro paint on it. I will be painting the car myself. I am not a
paint expert so I am soliciting input regarding what my options
are. Help!
In reply to a message from John Hussey sent Mon 16 Jan 2006:
John,
I agree with the other John that is it best to remove the nitro-
cellulose and start over. The good news is that it should be much
easier to remove it than enamel or the modern paint systems. It is
my understanding that solvents should do much of the work even if
it takes some time for them to take effect.
The last time I restored my XK120OTS ( in the 60s) in insisted on
using nitro-cellulose and I was ever after sorry as it just does
not have the durability that more modern paints have. I stored the
car outdoors under a cover ( young, poor, and living in an
apartment), and I had blisters and crazing within three years.
In reply to a message from John Hussey sent Mon 16 Jan 2006:
John,
I agree with the other John that is it best to remove the nitro-
cellulose and start over. The good news is that it should be much
easier to remove it than enamel or the modern paint systems. It is
my understanding that solvents should do much of the work even if
it takes some time for them to take effect.
The last time I restored my XK120OTS ( in the 60s) in insisted on
using nitro-cellulose and I was ever after sorry as it just does
not have the durability that more modern paints have. I stored the
car outdoors under a cover ( young, poor, and living in an
apartment), and I had blisters and crazing within three years.
If there is bondo under the paint and the use of paint removers will soften
the bondo. What if a sealer was used over the paint could he use a more
modern paint over that I think I would check with the auto paint store for
the information.
Bob
In reply to a message from lockas sent Mon 16 Jan 2006:
As I recall, the ‘‘paint remover’’ for nitro-celluose is lacquer
thinner, not the gloppy chemical stuff. It evaporates pretty
cleanly, but it may be a problem on bondo; not sure.
I strongly urge not trying to seal over what is on the car as the
paint film is only as strong as the weakest link.
If there is bondo under the paint and the use of paint removers will
soften the bondo. What if a sealer was used over the paint could he
use a more modern paint over that I think I would check with the auto
paint store for the information.
Bob
but if the base laquer cracks and falls away from the metal it takes the
new paint with it… best to strip and start anew. Bondo is cheap…
Many folks skim coat the car completely in Bondo and sand… john shuck
In reply to a message from lockas sent Mon 16 Jan 2006:
As I recall, the ‘‘paint remover’’ for nitro-celluose is lacquer
thinner, not the gloppy chemical stuff. It evaporates pretty
cleanly, but it may be a problem on bondo; not sure.
I strongly urge not trying to seal over what is on the car as the
paint film is only as strong as the weakest link.
if you decide to strip…try this product. Capt Lee’s Spray’strip.
Great stuff. He goes to several swap meets in the midwest. I used it
to Strip an Avanti and it does not harm plastic items. 1-800-421-9498.
He also make a metal prep too… Other stuff like “aircraft Paint
Stripper” works well, but it has a tendency to get in the cracks an
damage plastic and rubber. john shuck
The bodywork is perfect and the car has a coat or two
of Nitro-Cellulose paint on it.
Take it off…in fact in doing so the you can use it as a guide coat and
block it back to the primer and you will get a even more perfect finish
for your new top coat … but then there is the question of what type
of primer you have??? How many years ago was it primed and do you know
with what? The primer may be able to be sealed with a good epoxy
primer/sealer but you might have to take it all off primer and all!
In reply to a message from John Hussey sent Mon 16 Jan 2006:
Thank you all for your input. I don’t like the end result but
there is definately a consensus agreement that I need to get back
to the metal. The primer is probably anywhere from 5 to 15 years
old so I think that need to go as well.