[xk] Petrol gauge reading

XK
1

Hello’’
Can anybody advise me how do I go about calibrating the petrol
gauge?

When I do a fiil up it shows full and after driving a distance of
approximately 100 miles it will still register a full mark and then
the needle will rapidly move to the ‘‘E’’ mark

Thanks for any suggestions

James.–
Lord jim
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2

Bend the float arm.

DJOn 2 Aug 2011, at 16:20, Lord jim wrote:

Hello’’
Can anybody advise me how do I go about calibrating the petrol
gauge?

When I do a fiil up it shows full and after driving a distance of
approximately 100 miles it will still register a full mark and then
the needle will rapidly move to the ‘‘E’’ mark

Thanks for any suggestions

James.

Lord jim
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

3

Jamrs;
What DJ really means is to “gently” rearrange the molecules in the float arm
in such a manner that the float, itself, is reoriented in space, ie all
three axis: X, Y and Z. ;-}
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “D J @ EF”

Bend the float arm.

DJ

Can anybody advise me how do I go about calibrating the petrol
gauge?

When I do a fiil up it shows full and after driving a distance of
approximately 100 miles it will still register a full mark and then
the needle will rapidly move to the ‘‘E’’ mark

Thanks for any suggestions

James.

Lord jim

4

That’s it. Thanks Charles. I just couldn’t think what the american terminology was.

DJOn 2 Aug 2011, at 18:53, Bishop13 wrote:

Jamrs;
What DJ really means is to “gently” rearrange the molecules in the float arm in such a manner that the float, itself, is reoriented in space, ie all three axis: X, Y and Z. ;-}
Charles #677556.

----- Original Message ----- From: “D J @ EF”

Bend the float arm.

DJ

Can anybody advise me how do I go about calibrating the petrol
gauge?

When I do a fiil up it shows full and after driving a distance of
approximately 100 miles it will still register a full mark and then
the needle will rapidly move to the ‘‘E’’ mark

Thanks for any suggestions

James.

Lord jim

5

DJ;
More of a “Texas Thang” as it is related to the south end business of a
north-bound bull ;-}
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “D J @ EF”

That’s it. Thanks Charles. I just couldn’t think what the american
terminology was.

DJ

6

Charles, I’m certainly detecting a whiff of bull!

DJOn 2 Aug 2011, at 20:08, Bishop13 wrote:

DJ;
More of a “Texas Thang” as it is related to the south end business of a north-bound bull ;-}
Charles #677556.

----- Original Message ----- From: “D J @ EF”

That’s it. Thanks Charles. I just couldn’t think what the american terminology was.

DJ

7

In reply to a message from Lord jim sent Tue 2 Aug 2011:

Jim,

There’s an excellent article on fuel gauges at
mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_flb.html. It’s about the
MGA gauge, but the Jaguar gauge is almost identical except
for the low fuel light. It covers working principles,
repair and also calibration.

Based on my own experience, I’d be surprised if calibration
is necessary in your case. More likely it’s wiring issues,
poor grounds particularly, or possibly failure of the
variable resistance coil in the sending unit.

Bruce Wright
#674699–
The original message included these comments:

Can anybody advise me how do I go about calibrating the petrol
gauge?

–
Bruce Wright XK120 OTS #674699
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8

DJ;
Must be from the heat… it hit 110F (44C) (officially) today…
They say it’s gonna get hot over the next couple of weeks…
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “D J @ EF”

Charles, I’m certainly detecting a whiff of bull!

DJ

9

Then that whiff is going to get a lot stronger.
However this isn’t fixing the nice man’s petrol gauge.

DJOn 3 Aug 2011, at 05:17, Bishop13 wrote:

DJ;
Must be from the heat… it hit 110F (44C) (officially) today…
They say it’s gonna get hot over the next couple of weeks…
Charles #677556.

----- Original Message ----- From: “D J @ EF”
Charles, I’m certainly detecting a whiff of bull!

DJ

10

In reply to a message from D J @ EF sent Wed 3 Aug 2011:

Ok, for James who’s probably lost faith in us by now…

When I calibrated my gauge and sender, I took the sender out
of the tank and clamped it to the steering wheel. Obviously
cover the hole and take precautions about fumes from your
open tank and sparks.
I measured the depth of the tank in the hole and bent the
float arm such that the float movement was equivalent to how
it should move inside the tank, i.e. top of float at top of
tank is full and bottom of float at bottom of tank is empty
allowing for sender position on tank. I disconnected the
fuel pump and coil and ran jumper wires from the boot to the
sender, so with the key on I could move the float arm and
watch the gauge needle move.
I then lowered the instrument panel so I could reach the
back of the gauge. There are two nuts on the back for
adjusting the positions of two magnetic coils inside. You
tweak the positions of these two coils until the needle
moves nicely in agreement with the float arm.
It has been reasonably accurate since.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
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