[xk] piston rods and cotter keys

Wise, experienced List,

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no trace of
the pin. I recall a recent discussion regarding cotter key failures and
alternative nut problems (Not the human kind). My rather crude search of
the archives did not lead me to the thread.

Noteing the distinct relief at the nut’s base, I am hopeing to find
something readly available. I trust others have found a suitable
alternative. Advice and recommendations are welcomed.

Ellis
120, 150, etc.

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

If the proper size pins are used and not Re used there is no
problem–think about it they just move up and down in oil–there is
no torque put on them to sheer—Just a bunch of hooey–sort of
like cam tappet guide holders–unless there has been abuse (or it
has a cat converter) it is just a tempest in a tea pot!–
The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no trace of
the pin. I recall a recent discussion regarding cotter key failures and
alternative nut problems (Not the human kind). My rather crude search of
the archives did not lead me to the thread.
Noteing the distinct relief at the nut’s base, I am hopeing to find
something readly available. I trust others have found a suitable
alternative. Advice and recommendations are welcomed.


George Camp
Columbia SC, United States
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Thank you, George, for your reassuring comments. I put this engine together
in the mid '70s from a pile of parts left by my “mechanic”. It is possible
I used the old pins. Now I wonder if new pins available from the local
parts house might be of diminished quality. My inclination is to remove all
the old pins and re-torque with new pins. I am pleased to find the rear
main bearing shell looking like it was just installed, perhaps clean oil and
a rest of almost 30 years in a dry climate is a factor.

Ellis----- Original Message -----
From: “George Camp” scjag@juno.com
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

If the proper size pins are used and not Re used there is no
problem–think about it they just move up and down in oil–there is
no torque put on them to sheer—Just a bunch of hooey–sort of
like cam tappet guide holders–unless there has been abuse (or it
has a cat converter) it is just a tempest in a tea pot!

The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no trace of
the pin. I recall a recent discussion regarding cotter key failures and
alternative nut problems (Not the human kind). My rather crude search of
the archives did not lead me to the thread.
Noteing the distinct relief at the nut’s base, I am hopeing to find
something readly available. I trust others have found a suitable
alternative. Advice and recommendations are welcomed.


George Camp
Columbia SC, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Ellis wrote:

Thank you, George, for your reassuring comments. I put this engine
together in the mid '70s from a pile of parts left by my “mechanic”.
It is possible I used the old pins. Now I wonder if new pins
available from the local parts house might be of diminished quality.
My inclination is to remove all the old pins and re-torque with new
pins. I am pleased to find the rear main bearing shell looking like
it was just installed, perhaps clean oil and a rest of almost 30 years
in a dry climate is a factor.

Ellis

----- Original Message ----- From: “George Camp” scjag@juno.com
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

If the proper size pins are used and not Re used there is no
problem–think about it they just move up and down in oil–there is
no torque put on them to sheer—Just a bunch of hooey–sort of
like cam tappet guide holders–unless there has been abuse (or it
has a cat converter) it is just a tempest in a tea pot!

The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found
bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no
trace of
the pin. I recall a recent discussion regarding cotter key failures
and
alternative nut problems (Not the human kind). My rather crude
search of
the archives did not lead me to the thread.
Noteing the distinct relief at the nut’s base, I am hopeing to find
something readly available. I trust others have found a suitable
alternative. Advice and recommendations are welcomed.


George Camp
Columbia SC, United States
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http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Ellis and list If youre rebuilding these engines you must always
Resize the con rods and replace the bolts and nuts I use series 3 xj
bolts with loctite as well! They have a 12 point nut and no split pins
I wont rely on 50 year old stretched bolts The cost if they fail is too
high Regards Terry hilton

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Mon 19 May 2008:

Ellis
The pins aren’t necessary. Lock nuts are available from the usuals.
Combine those with a drop of high temp Loctite, and the only way
they are coming apart is if you go in there and do it.–
ex jag, '66 E-type S1 4.2, '56 XK140dhc, '97 XJ-6
Denison, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

Ellis
A while back, another lister had a similar problem. As I recall a
DPO had secured the nuts with safety wire rather than cotter pins.
Result was failure and bits of wire throughout engine.
I saw the internals of his oil pump after wire bits had gone
through it. Not a pretty sight.
If you find bits of cotter pin in your oil filter it’s a sure sign
that they’ve gone through the pump. You may want to take yours
apart and inspect.
Good luck,
Rich
PS I recall Manny, in another thread, recently reporting
an ‘‘alternative nut problem’’ of the human kind). :wink: ;-)–
The original message included these comments:

Wise, experienced List,
I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no trace of
the pin. I recall a recent discussion regarding cotter key failures and
alternative nut problems (Not the human kind). My rather crude search of
the archives did not lead me to the thread.
Noteing the distinct relief at the nut’s base, I am hopeing to find
something readly available. I trust others have found a suitable
alternative. Advice and recommendations are welcomed.
Ellis
120, 150, etc.


rich neary
perrineville/new jersey, United States
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In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

Ellis,

Your experience is not unusual. I’ve found too many of them in
pieces in the bottom of the sump. On ocassion, I find bits of them
ingested in the oil pump, where they cause much damage and flood
the engine with metal shavings to boot. There is really no good
engineering reason to use them. The installation of the pin
generally requires you to either under or over torque the bolt so
that the slots and the holes line up so you can fit the pin. What
sense does that make??? Not good on a threaded fastener that is
loaded almost purely in tension. In my opinion, they are
worthless, or worse, on a properly torqued threaded fastener. I
find the pins less objectionable on suspension bolts where the
applied loads are in shear. There the installed torque is not
critical, so a little loose to line up the slot-hole is no
potential issue.

Personally, I don’t use the cotter pins. Either use the later 4.2
nuts and bolts, which did away with them, or use GOOD (ARP or such)
aftermarket fasteners. And DO NOT be tempted to use a chemical
locker or nylon insert nut on a connecting rod bolt. Both are just
bad practice on conn-rods.

Regards,–
The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no trace of
Ellis


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
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In reply to a message from MikeSpoelker sent Mon 19 May 2008:

Ellis,

I just installed a newer set of bolts and nuts in mine that require
no pins, just torque it and leave it. The newer ones are not that
expensive and leaves my mind at ease.

Frank–
150 DHC
Auburn, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Jaginabox sent Mon 19 May 2008:

Cotter pins represents an older technology that was
time-consuming on the factory assembly line and has been
replaced by faster methods as a cost saving measure. The
slight difference in torque due to lining up the holes is of
minimal importance, since torque is really only a secondary
method of measuring what you really want, which is clamping
force, which can be measured more directly by bolt stretch.
There really is no difference in strength or failure
likelihood when cotter pins are properly done.
One advantage of cotter pins was that the engine assembly
line inspector could see visually that the work had been done.
With one early XK120 engine I disassembled I found several
broken bits of cotter pins in the pan, though thankfully the
oil pickup screen kept them out of the oil pump. Every
single one of the cotter pins in that engine bore the marks
of pliers, that they had obviously been used more than once,
and some broke as I removed them.
By contrast, an XK140 engine I disassembled, though its
history is unknown, had evidently never been disassembled
before it came into my hands, and every single cotter pin
was in excellent condition.
So it is my personal rule never to re-use an old cotter pin,
but to use new cotter pins every time.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II
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In reply to a message from Rob Reilly sent Mon 19 May 2008:

All of what Rob says is entirely true, however it is really rare to
find anyone outside of the well-crafted racing engine business that
actually uses the bolt stretch method, most using the more
expeditious, if inferior, torque method. I’ve done it both ways,
but it’s a fiddly, tedious, process to do it by stretch, although
when done the resultant satifaction is a little like that of
adjusting your own valves.

A great many manufacturers recomend that conn rod nuts and bolts
never be reused or torqued once they have been removed, specifying
replacement instead. For what it costs to rebuild one of these
engines it’s not much of an expense to replace the old 1940’s
castle-nut and cotter pin technology with ‘‘new’’ 1980’s SIII XJ6
fasteners.

My personal bias is that I would never put cotter pins back in one
of these engines. I cannot say whether any of the pieces I have
found in the sump were the result of reused the cotters, but I just
don’t like them. It’s also the wrong place for tie wire.

Note well that the use of elastic lock nuts and thread locking
compounds on the threads negates the results of the applied torque
method.

Regards to all,–
The original message included these comments:

Cotter pins represents an older technology that was
slight difference in torque due to lining up the holes is of
minimal importance, since torque is really only a secondary
method of measuring what you really want, which is clamping
force, which can be measured more directly by bolt stretch.
There really is no difference in strength or failure
likelihood when cotter pins are properly done.


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
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It’s been a while since I looked inside an XK engine. I’m assuming
that ‘cotter key’ is american english for what we call a ‘split pin’?
If that is correct you use them once only. I’ve never seen the legs
break off in use, only when you straighten them out to remove them,
and I’m drawing on 40 years experience.
Next ,and this is where my memory may let me down, on the end off the
oil pump pick up pipe I’m fairly sure there is a gauze filter unless
I’m confused.
If this is the case, I cannot see the split pin legs getting through
it into the pump.

DJOn 19 May 2008, at 14:02, MikeSpoelker wrote:

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

Ellis,

Your experience is not unusual. I’ve found too many of them in
pieces in the bottom of the sump. On ocassion, I find bits of them
ingested in the oil pump, where they cause much damage and flood
the engine with metal shavings to boot. There is really no good
engineering reason to use them. The installation of the pin
generally requires you to either under or over torque the bolt so
that the slots and the holes line up so you can fit the pin. What
sense does that make??? Not good on a threaded fastener that is
loaded almost purely in tension. In my opinion, they are
worthless, or worse, on a properly torqued threaded fastener. I
find the pins less objectionable on suspension bolts where the
applied loads are in shear. There the installed torque is not
critical, so a little loose to line up the slot-hole is no
potential issue.

Personally, I don’t use the cotter pins. Either use the later 4.2
nuts and bolts, which did away with them, or use GOOD (ARP or such)
aftermarket fasteners. And DO NOT be tempted to use a chemical
locker or nylon insert nut on a connecting rod bolt. Both are just
bad practice on conn-rods.

Regards,

The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found
bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no
trace of
Ellis


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

If split-pins/cotter-pins are PROPERLY installed they will not fail in use,
but I have seen a number of instances where split-pins not properly
installed have in fact failed.

In my experience, there are a number of mechanics and amateurs who do not
know the correct way of installing a split-pin.

It is fundamental that you always use NEW split-pins, and you never try to
reuse split-pins that have been previously used or are damaged in any way.

You must use the correct diameter split-pin, as a split-pin of a smaller
diameter than intended is more likely to fail, and this can now be a problem
in countries such as Australia where we now buy primarily metric-size split
pins to use in our imperial sized XKs. (I purchased a large supply of new
split-pins in from USA where imperial sizes still dominate)

Then the actual installation must be as per “Rolls Royce” method (a term I
have heard a couple times - not sure what basis is) where the split pin is
inserted in side-ways (and not flat) such that the head of the split-pin
nests totally within the slotted-nuts SLOT up against the hole in the bolt.

The short leg is bent down axially along the flat of the hexagon nut to be a
snug fit, and if too long a split-pin has been used the excess length can be
cut to size, although a small amount of diagonal-wedging of leg is useful.
The longer leg is bent back over the end of the bolt and again bent to
position snugly.

Once a correct size split-pin is installed correctly there should be no
looseness evident in the split pin.

The WRONG way to fit a split pin is to have the head sitting flat, and on
the outside of the slotted-nut slot, with the two legs bent exiting and
being bent around the sides of the hexagon nut.

A correct size split pin, installed correctly will not fail nor cause any
problems.

Roger Payne - XK140MC OTS; E-Type 4.2 S.1 OTS; DSV8.
Canberra.-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
D J
Sent: Tuesday, 20 May 2008 9:30 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

It’s been a while since I looked inside an XK engine. I’m assuming
that ‘cotter key’ is american english for what we call a ‘split pin’?
If that is correct you use them once only. I’ve never seen the legs
break off in use, only when you straighten them out to remove them,
and I’m drawing on 40 years experience.
Next ,and this is where my memory may let me down, on the end off the
oil pump pick up pipe I’m fairly sure there is a gauze filter unless
I’m confused.
If this is the case, I cannot see the split pin legs getting through
it into the pump.

DJ

On 19 May 2008, at 14:02, MikeSpoelker wrote:

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

Ellis,

Your experience is not unusual. I’ve found too many of them in
pieces in the bottom of the sump. On ocassion, I find bits of them
ingested in the oil pump, where they cause much damage and flood
the engine with metal shavings to boot. There is really no good
engineering reason to use them. The installation of the pin
generally requires you to either under or over torque the bolt so
that the slots and the holes line up so you can fit the pin. What
sense does that make??? Not good on a threaded fastener that is
loaded almost purely in tension. In my opinion, they are
worthless, or worse, on a properly torqued threaded fastener. I
find the pins less objectionable on suspension bolts where the
applied loads are in shear. There the installed torque is not
critical, so a little loose to line up the slot-hole is no
potential issue.

Personally, I don’t use the cotter pins. Either use the later 4.2
nuts and bolts, which did away with them, or use GOOD (ARP or such)
aftermarket fasteners. And DO NOT be tempted to use a chemical
locker or nylon insert nut on a connecting rod bolt. Both are just
bad practice on conn-rods.

Regards,

The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found
bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no
trace of
Ellis


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Roger P;
That is EXACTLY how my “Mechanic mentor and teacher” taught me to install
split pins… He’d hit me with a service manual if I ever did anything
incorrectly… and I believe he’d come back from the dead and do it again if
I screwed-up!!
Charles #677556.

Then the actual installation must be as per “Rolls Royce” method (a term I
have heard a couple times - not sure what basis is) where the split pin is
inserted in side-ways (and not flat) such that the head of the split-pin
nests totally within the slotted-nuts SLOT up against the hole in the
bolt.

The short leg is bent down axially along the flat of the hexagon nut to be
a
snug fit, and if too long a split-pin has been used the excess length can
be----- Original Message -----
From: “Roger Payne”
cut to size, although a small amount of diagonal-wedging of leg is useful.
The longer leg is bent back over the end of the bolt and again bent to
position snugly.

Once a correct size split-pin is installed correctly there should be no
looseness evident in the split pin.

The WRONG way to fit a split pin is to have the head sitting flat, and on
the outside of the slotted-nut slot, with the two legs bent exiting and
being bent around the sides of the hexagon nut.

A correct size split pin, installed correctly will not fail nor cause any
problems.

Roger Payne - XK140MC OTS; E-Type 4.2 S.1 OTS; DSV8.
Canberra.


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DJ;
Yes, our “Cotter Keys” are the Brit “Split Pins”…
On the gauze filter over the end of the oil pump pick-up head. it’s been
my experience to see these torn on a fair number of engines (not just Jags)
for any number of reasons… Even something simple like not changing the oil
during times of non-use can result in acids forming in the oil, these acids
can weaken the gauze mesh, resulting in a hole or a tear… Instant access
to the oil pump gears.
Charles #677556.

on the end off the

oil pump pick up pipe I’m fairly sure there is a gauze filter unless
unless----- Original Message -----
From: “D J”
I’m confused.
If this is the case, I cannot see the split pin legs getting through
it into the pump.

DJ


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Thanks Charles for the confirmation. Over here (which obviously makes
it correct :wink: ) cotter pins are something different. We associate the
term ‘key’ with woodruff key. I don’t know what you guys have changed
that to if anything?

I totally agree with both Roger and yourself on correct installation
methods, I just didn’t consider anyone on this list would not be aware
but you’re both absolutely right to record it.

I’m totally relaxed with splits pins vs nyloc nuts as I consider them
the more positive of the two methods.
Equally many manufacturers had holes drilled through the big end and
main bearing bolts and we used to wire the pair of bolt heads
together. You had to use proper tying wire though and again like spiit
pins, it was infallible.
I suppose I’m saying ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.’ Conrods mean’t
for split pin bolts should get them as the bolt/rod fit is correct.
I’ve no knowledge of the nyloc bolt heads being an identical fit or
not and see no reason to find out!

DJOn 20 May 2008, at 04:50, BISHOP-13 wrote:

DJ;
Yes, our “Cotter Keys” are the Brit “Split Pins”…
On the gauze filter over the end of the oil pump pick-up head.
it’s been
my experience to see these torn on a fair number of engines (not
just Jags)
for any number of reasons… Even something simple like not changing
the oil
during times of non-use can result in acids forming in the oil,
these acids
can weaken the gauze mesh, resulting in a hole or a tear… Instant
access
to the oil pump gears.
Charles #677556.

----- Original Message -----
From: “D J”

on the end off the

oil pump pick up pipe I’m fairly sure there is a gauze filter unless
unless
I’m confused.
If this is the case, I cannot see the split pin legs getting through
it into the pump.

DJ


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Dear Roger and other learned responders,

Thank you for an education in modern alternatives and proper use of the
pins. I appreciate the optimal approach Terry recommends and assurances
properly installed split pins are, while serviceable, not the only option.
After an unsuccessful search of local suppliers – the Jaguar dealer advised
the later nuts cost $15 each with a 4 day delivery schedule – I found a
small shop/parts house surviving from the 70s. The owner, Linden Malki,
understood my needs at once and produced the 12 point nuts within hours - $3
each.

I will install them torqued to 37#s unless you folks recommend otherwise.
Now is also a good time to check the oil pump and install the “spin on” oil
filter adapter.

Thank you all for providing this great knowledge resource and for your
tolerance for the less informed.

Ellis----- Original Message -----
From: “Roger Payne” rogerpayne@bigblue.net.au
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 5:05 PM
Subject: RE: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

If split-pins/cotter-pins are PROPERLY installed they will not fail in
use,
but I have seen a number of instances where split-pins not properly
installed have in fact failed.

In my experience, there are a number of mechanics and amateurs who do not
know the correct way of installing a split-pin.

It is fundamental that you always use NEW split-pins, and you never try to
reuse split-pins that have been previously used or are damaged in any way.

You must use the correct diameter split-pin, as a split-pin of a smaller
diameter than intended is more likely to fail, and this can now be a
problem
in countries such as Australia where we now buy primarily metric-size
split
pins to use in our imperial sized XKs. (I purchased a large supply of new
split-pins in from USA where imperial sizes still dominate)

Then the actual installation must be as per “Rolls Royce” method (a term I
have heard a couple times - not sure what basis is) where the split pin is
inserted in side-ways (and not flat) such that the head of the split-pin
nests totally within the slotted-nuts SLOT up against the hole in the
bolt.

The short leg is bent down axially along the flat of the hexagon nut to be
a
snug fit, and if too long a split-pin has been used the excess length can
be
cut to size, although a small amount of diagonal-wedging of leg is useful.
The longer leg is bent back over the end of the bolt and again bent to
position snugly.

Once a correct size split-pin is installed correctly there should be no
looseness evident in the split pin.

The WRONG way to fit a split pin is to have the head sitting flat, and on
the outside of the slotted-nut slot, with the two legs bent exiting and
being bent around the sides of the hexagon nut.

A correct size split pin, installed correctly will not fail nor cause any
problems.

Roger Payne - XK140MC OTS; E-Type 4.2 S.1 OTS; DSV8.
Canberra.

DJ;
Woodruff Keys are still Woodruff Keys… at least, I assume so, being
away from the “commercial” end of professional mechanicing for “a while”
now…
On “wiring” nuts, that is another “art form” that has to be “just so” or
else it’s wrong and subject to fail… The proper wire to use is simply
called “Safety” or “Lock” Wire (the aircraft crowd uses a lot of it!), and
it is available in different sizes (diameters) as well… (about 0.021",
0.032" & 0.041")… My mentor taught me a little about that, as well… the
point of focus were the two hex bolts that secure the sprocket drive plate
to the camshaft.
I remember running across a set of bolts that someone “safety wired”…
backwards! (although a very tidy job). Every twisted section of the safety
wire was fitted in such a manner that it was “unscrewing” the bolt head.
Fortunately, the bolts had remained tight.
Charles #677556.

cotter pins are something different. We associate the----- Original Message -----
From: “D J”

term ‘key’ with woodruff key. I don’t know what you guys have changed
that to if anything?

Equally many manufacturers had holes drilled through the big end and
main bearing bolts and we used to wire the pair of bolt heads
together. You had to use proper tying wire though and again like spiit
pins, it was infallible.


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Well, I think that concludes this weeks masterclass from the golden
oldies, brilliantly covered in both languages, English and American.

Topic suggestions please for next week’s.

Good work chaps,

DJOn 20 May 2008, at 15:39, BISHOP-13 wrote:

DJ;
Woodruff Keys are still Woodruff Keys… at least, I assume so,
being
away from the “commercial” end of professional mechanicing for “a
while”
now…
On “wiring” nuts, that is another “art form” that has to be “just
so” or
else it’s wrong and subject to fail… The proper wire to use is simply
called “Safety” or “Lock” Wire (the aircraft crowd uses a lot of
it!), and
it is available in different sizes (diameters) as well… (about
0.021",
0.032" & 0.041")… My mentor taught me a little about that, as
well… the
point of focus were the two hex bolts that secure the sprocket drive
plate
to the camshaft.
I remember running across a set of bolts that someone “safety
wired”…
backwards! (although a very tidy job). Every twisted section of the
safety
wire was fitted in such a manner that it was “unscrewing” the bolt
head.
Fortunately, the bolts had remained tight.
Charles #677556.

----- Original Message -----
From: “D J”

cotter pins are something different. We associate the

term ‘key’ with woodruff key. I don’t know what you guys have changed
that to if anything?

Equally many manufacturers had holes drilled through the big end and
main bearing bolts and we used to wire the pair of bolt heads
together. You had to use proper tying wire though and again like
spiit
pins, it was infallible.


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In reply to a message from D J sent Tue 20 May 2008:

LOL - you weren’t around for the Rex*** ‘‘discussion’’ 6 or 8 years
ago. This was nothin’!!!–
The original message included these comments:

Well, I think that concludes this weeks masterclass from the golden
oldies, brilliantly covered in both languages, English and American.
Topic suggestions please for next week’s.
Good work chaps,
DJ


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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Charles,

Up in this neck of the woods, we call the split pins cotter pins. Keys can
be either woodruff half moons or square stock.

John Brady
678462
54 XK120 DHC
Bedford, MA

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