Tom,
In addition to Mike’s excellent comments, I want to add, do not crank the
nuts up and down with the full weight of the car on the suspension. The top
end of the bolt can break loose. Guess how I know. Take your height
measurement, jack up under the frame so the wheel is up, then crank the nut.
It will take a few iterations to get it right, but you only have to do this
once. For what it’s worth, my bolts are showing about 1-5/8" of thread below
the nuts, but every car will be different. If you’re way off, you can
reposition the torsion bars on different splines.
For height gauges I stacked up some pieces of 2x4 and plywood. Two stacks
under the frame at the front of the leaf spring mountings with the rear
wheels off. Two stacks under the frame at the downpipes and oil filter. Then
do each side with the opposite wheel off.
What else? The torsion bars are pre-stressed for left and right, marked on
the end as near side and off side. Don’t get them on the wrong sides or they
will soon break.
The lower wishbone shafts have a front and rear, don’t put them on
backwards.
The stub axle carriers have a left and right. The flats are to the rear for
using a caster alignment tool.
Rob Reilly - 679187
Regarding all the other suspension bushings, tighten them later
once you have adjusted the two torsion bar nuts to attain the 7 1/8
ride height.
The original message included these comments:> Should the nut be placed near the top of the threads, in the middle
or near the beginning (bottom) of the threads?