I’m using Dunlop 215-70/16 radial tires on my 120SE. I’m
finishing work on a 120 standard model, and I’m wondering if
those tires would interfere with the fender skirts. Anyone
have experience with radials on standard model cars with
fender skirts?–
GHP
Chittenango, NY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
G,
There’s a good bit on this in the archives. From my recollection of reading
the past messages, you can knock off spats with those tires under hard
cornering.
“Mark 1” Mark Stephenson Phoenix, AZ, USA
'52 XK120 S673129, '59 Mk1, '84,'85,'86 &'95 XJ6-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
GHP
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 12:37 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [xk] Radial tires and intererence with skirts?
I’m using Dunlop 215-70/16 radial tires on my 120SE. I’m
finishing work on a 120 standard model, and I’m wondering if
those tires would interfere with the fender skirts. Anyone
have experience with radials on standard model cars with
fender skirts?
GHP
Chittenango, NY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
GHP,
You have fender skirts on a SE model ?
Having fought with the fender skirt issue extensively like so many on this
list, I can pretty much assure you that the Dunlop radials will convert your
fedner skirts into Frisbees on hard cornering at speed. I’ve had to go with
the narrowest profile currently on the market, ( Michelins and Veredesteins)
and still get slight rubbing on the FHC because I did not modify the lock
mechanism at all as I did on the OTS.
Best of luck,
Knight----- Original Message -----
From: “Mark Stephenson” mark@jag-lovers.org
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 12:46 PM
Subject: RE: [xk] Radial tires and intererence with skirts?
G,
There’s a good bit on this in the archives. From my recollection of
reading
the past messages, you can knock off spats with those tires under hard
cornering.“Mark 1” Mark Stephenson Phoenix, AZ, USA
'52 XK120 S673129, '59 Mk1, '84,'85,'86 &'95 XJ6-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf
Of
GHP
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 12:37 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [xk] Radial tires and intererence with skirts?I’m using Dunlop 215-70/16 radial tires on my 120SE. I’m
finishing work on a 120 standard model, and I’m wondering if
those tires would interfere with the fender skirts. Anyone
have experience with radials on standard model cars with
fender skirts?GHP
Chittenango, NY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from GHP sent Mon 4 Aug 2008:
I ended up buying the traditional bias ply tires from Coker just
for this reason. Performance was not high on my list but keeping
my skirts on was. Jim–
Clew65
Port Angeles, WA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
My very experienced restorer, works exclusively on Jags and is a JCNA
judge, recommended the Vredestein radials, and when I voiced my concern
about the spats becoming “road frisbies”, he guaranteed me they would not!
I do not know if he is modifying the locking mechanism, but he has not
mentioned anything about doing so.
FWIW
Roar (672229)> [Original Message]
From: Clew65 jimmacdonald65@msn.com
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Date: 06.08.2008 14:50:31
Subject: Re: [xk] Radial tires and intererence with skirts?In reply to a message from GHP sent Mon 4 Aug 2008:
I ended up buying the traditional bias ply tires from Coker just
for this reason. Performance was not high on my list but keeping
my skirts on was. JimClew65
Port Angeles, WA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
I did similar, but used Coker radials. No problems with the skirts.
Bob
681431-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
Clew65
Sent: August 06, 2008 8:48 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] Radial tires and intererence with skirts?
In reply to a message from GHP sent Mon 4 Aug 2008:
I ended up buying the traditional bias ply tires from Coker just
for this reason. Performance was not high on my list but keeping
my skirts on was. Jim
Clew65
Port Angeles, WA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
Jim Mc;
I bet you say that to all the boys ;-}
Earlier this year, I bought tyres for my spatted 120 DHC… What I wanted
was a bias 600x16 with a quality “road-holding” tread. the “slicks” with a
half dozen zig-zag slots wasn’t going to get it for “year-round driving”…
in fact, I felt those tyres wouldn’t even hold the road in dry conditions
(Coker acknowledges that his tyres are suitable for "dry weather, summer
only, and speeds UNDER 60mph!)… The tread pattern that I liked, having a
good design, siping, etc., were the 600R16 Coker Radials… Hopefully, with
these tyres, I’ll have my cake & be able to eat it, as well… If I ever
finish the Jag, I will, of course, let everyone know how the tyres work…
Charles #677556
Performance was not high on my list but keeping----- Original Message -----
From: “Clew65”
my skirts on was. Jim
“and speeds UNDER 60mph”
So that’s you going everywhere in 2nd. gear Charles?
Blimey what you guys will do to avoid changing gears!!
DJOn 6 Aug 2008, at 16:53, BISHOP13 wrote:
Jim Mc;
I bet you say that to all the boys ;-}
Earlier this year, I bought tyres for my spatted 120 DHC… What I
wanted
was a bias 600x16 with a quality “road-holding” tread. the “slicks”
with a
half dozen zig-zag slots wasn’t going to get it for “year-round
driving”…
in fact, I felt those tyres wouldn’t even hold the road in dry
conditions
(Coker acknowledges that his tyres are suitable for "dry weather,
summer
only, and speeds UNDER 60mph!)… The tread pattern that I liked,
having a
good design, siping, etc., were the 600R16 Coker Radials…
Hopefully, with
these tyres, I’ll have my cake & be able to eat it, as well… If I
ever
finish the Jag, I will, of course, let everyone know how the tyres
work…
Charles #677556----- Original Message -----
From: “Clew65”
Performance was not high on my list but keepingmy skirts on was. Jim
Roar,
At the risk of sounding like a salesman, you’re going to like the
Veredesteins !
They rub only very slightly on the FHC which does not have the modified lock
mechanism. They have not caused any problems and ride and handle very
nicely.
Best,
Knight----- Original Message -----
From: “Roar Sand” roarsandnorge@earthlink.net
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: [xk] Radial tires and intererence with skirts?
My very experienced restorer, works exclusively on Jags and is a JCNA
judge, recommended the Vredestein radials, and when I voiced my concern
about the spats becoming “road frisbies”, he guaranteed me they would not!
I do not know if he is modifying the locking mechanism, but he has not
mentioned anything about doing so.
FWIW
Roar (672229)[Original Message]
From: Clew65 jimmacdonald65@msn.com
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Date: 06.08.2008 14:50:31
Subject: Re: [xk] Radial tires and intererence with skirts?In reply to a message from GHP sent Mon 4 Aug 2008:
I ended up buying the traditional bias ply tires from Coker just
for this reason. Performance was not high on my list but keeping
my skirts on was. JimClew65
Port Angeles, WA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at
http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
Knight & Roar;
Knight, is “They rub only very slightly” the same as being “a little bit
pregnant”??
I’ve been following the posts about the tyres knocking off the XK’s
spats… not something we want to happen (it’s happened to me three times,
back in the late '60’s early '70’s) it’s a real gut-wrenching feeling! To
say the least…
A number of comments were made about “modifying” the locking mechanism in
an effort to prevent the spats from becoming “Road Frisbees”… I assume
that this “modification” is the simple act of fitting a longer mounting
screw (machine screw) to the fit the lock assembly to the spat in an effort
to prevent the “locking tab” from coming “unlocked”… This is a good
back-up safety plan, assuming the “RUBO Gasket” is “live”, not old and
compressed, and is of correct thickness to put tension against the spat’s
lock tab (this was why my spats came off!). The longer screw, alone, is NOT
going to prevent a fat, oversized tyre from knocking off the spat in a
“spirited” corner…
One has to look at the “how” the radial tyre dislodges the spat before one
can implement “fixes” to prevent the problem…
The correct tyre size for the XK is 600x16 Bias Ply… Translated, the
“cross-section” (the widest part of the sidewall) is Six Inches. The tread
width can vary between manufacturers from four inches to nearly six inches.
The “Butch Hair Cut” look of bias tyres, tho nostalgic, was actually gone by
the mid '60’s as tyre technology had improved by leaps and bounds after the
“left-over” period of the early post-war years.
The smallest Sixteen Inch Radial tyre we can get “OTC” is a 205/70R16…
To “translate, the 205mm is the Cross-Section at it’s widest point… that
is 8 3/8”. the “70” means the tread of this tyre is 70% of the
Cross-Section, or about 5.75"… not a lot of “tyre patch” improvement over
a late style 600x16, but it is an improvement as every little bit helps.
Now, we’ve all seen the “poochy”, “flat-tyre” looking appearance of radial
tyres compared to the “straight” (vertical) sidewalls of the bias tyres…
Ever wonder why? It’s simple… there is no “sidewall” in the sidewalls of
the modern radial, compared to the sidewalls of the bias tires… Most
radials have two thin plys for sidewalls… What does this mean? Well, it
means, at it’s extremes, that the tread can actually “travel” completely out
from under the “width” of the rim, (that “squiggle” one experiences if one
is a “seat-of-the-pants” driver)… This is assuming, of course, that the
tyre doesn’t just “roll off the rim” to begin with…
For those of us with spatted XK’s, this is where the trouble begins…
those fat sidewalls creating the clearance loss in wheelwell, the “lateral
movement” of the tread, sidewall and entire differential assembly of up to
five more inches (at the bottom of the tyre), the side of the tyre contacts
the lower rear mounting point of the spat, pushing out this area of the rear
wing while lifting the spat off it’s pin then “flipping” the spat out into
the road… Instant Thousand Dollar Frisbee!! Assuming the Eighteen Wheeler
behind you (or in the other lane) doesn’t run over it first!!
The point being, be sure you are fixing the right problem before
investing in a set of high dollar tyres… unless you are looking for an
excuse to buy the high dollar tyres…
Oh, one bit of “cheap insurance” is to weld a “loop” on the spat’s rear
(and only the rear!!) mounting tab (on the spat… not the “pin” on the rear
wing). If in the event your radial tyre does contact that area of the spat,
the “loop” will prevent the spat from being “lifted off” it’s mounting pin,
thus retaining it’s Three Point Mount integrity…
Charles #677556.
Roar,
At the risk of sounding like a salesman, you’re going to like the
Veredesteins !
They rub only very slightly on the FHC which does not have the modified
lock----- Original Message -----
From: “Knight Martorell”
mechanism. They have not caused any problems and ride and handle very
nicely.
Best,
Knight
DJ;
My point exactly… Why bother owning/driving a Jaguar if the “shoes” are
barely capable of “walking speed”… might as well have a pedal car … but
I guess the “Trailer Queen” crowd needs a tyre that will keep the chassis
from dragging the ground.
Personally, the entire concept of owning/driving a Jaguar is, to me, being
able to drive at speeds “in the vicinity” of the maximum legal limit (my
122S Volvo will exceed triple digits with ease!!)… Who knows, I might take
the Jag up to Montana someday… I’ve heard their max speed limit is
“Reasonable and Prudent”… Well, for an XK Jaguar “Flat-Out” is “Reasonable
and Prudent” to me… that said, there are some people that the act of
getting into a car ought to be a felony!!
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “D J”
“and speeds UNDER 60mph”
So that’s you going everywhere in 2nd. gear Charles?
Blimey what you guys will do to avoid changing gears!!DJ
Charles,
Am just delighted (& relieved) to learn you simply bought the tyres
without resorting to constructing a vulcanising plant.
In consequence that XK of yours should be on the road in a couple of
weeks now you’ve got your eye focussed on the ball.
DJOn 6 Aug 2008, at 20:40, BISHOP13 wrote:
DJ;
My point exactly… Why bother owning/driving a Jaguar if the
“shoes” are
barely capable of “walking speed”… might as well have a pedal
car … but
I guess the “Trailer Queen” crowd needs a tyre that will keep the
chassis
from dragging the ground.
Personally, the entire concept of owning/driving a Jaguar is, to
me, being
able to drive at speeds “in the vicinity” of the maximum legal limit
(my
122S Volvo will exceed triple digits with ease!!)… Who knows, I
might take
the Jag up to Montana someday… I’ve heard their max speed limit is
“Reasonable and Prudent”… Well, for an XK Jaguar “Flat-Out” is
“Reasonable
and Prudent” to me… that said, there are some people that the act of
getting into a car ought to be a felony!!
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “D J”“and speeds UNDER 60mph”
So that’s you going everywhere in 2nd. gear Charles?
Blimey what you guys will do to avoid changing gears!!DJ
Thanks Knight!
A little reassurance never hurts.
Roar
[Original Message]
From: Knight Martorell pkm120@earthlink.net
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Date: 06.08.2008 18:04:42
Subject: Re: [xk] Radial tires and intererence with skirts?Roar,
At the risk of sounding like a salesman, you’re going to like the
Veredesteins !
They rub only very slightly on the FHC which does not have the modified
lock> mechanism. They have not caused any problems and ride and handle very
nicely.
Best,
Knight
It appears The Dunlop SP5000 Sport Symetrical and the Bridgestone
Turanza come in 196/60R16. Both price out over $100/tire on the web but
they are there. That should help.
Tom Lord #677010> Knight & Roar;
Knight, is “They rub only very slightly” the same as being “a little bit
pregnant”??
I’ve been following the posts about the tyres knocking off the XK’s
spats… not something we want to happen (it’s happened to me three times,
back in the late '60’s early '70’s) it’s a real gut-wrenching feeling! To
say the least…
A number of comments were made about “modifying” the locking mechanism in
an effort to prevent the spats from becoming “Road Frisbees”… I assume
that this “modification” is the simple act of fitting a longer mounting
screw (machine screw) to the fit the lock assembly to the spat in an effort
to prevent the “locking tab” from coming “unlocked”… This is a good
back-up safety plan, assuming the “RUBO Gasket” is “live”, not old and
compressed, and is of correct thickness to put tension against the spat’s
lock tab (this was why my spats came off!). The longer screw, alone, is NOT
going to prevent a fat, oversized tyre from knocking off the spat in a
“spirited” corner…
One has to look at the “how” the radial tyre dislodges the spat before one
can implement “fixes” to prevent the problem…
The correct tyre size for the XK is 600x16 Bias Ply… Translated, the
“cross-section” (the widest part of the sidewall) is Six Inches. The tread
width can vary between manufacturers from four inches to nearly six inches.
The “Butch Hair Cut” look of bias tyres, tho nostalgic, was actually gone by
the mid '60’s as tyre technology had improved by leaps and bounds after the
“left-over” period of the early post-war years.
The smallest Sixteen Inch Radial tyre we can get “OTC” is a 205/70R16…
To “translate, the 205mm is the Cross-Section at it’s widest point… that
is 8 3/8”. the “70” means the tread of this tyre is 70% of the
Cross-Section, or about 5.75"… not a lot of “tyre patch” improvement over
a late style 600x16, but it is an improvement as every little bit helps.
Now, we’ve all seen the “poochy”, “flat-tyre” looking appearance of radial
tyres compared to the “straight” (vertical) sidewalls of the bias tyres…
Ever wonder why? It’s simple… there is no “sidewall” in the sidewalls of
the modern radial, compared to the sidewalls of the bias tires… Most
radials have two thin plys for sidewalls… What does this mean? Well, it
means, at it’s extremes, that the tread can actually “travel” completely out
from under the “width” of the rim, (that “squiggle” one experiences if one
is a “seat-of-the-pants” driver)… This is assuming, of course, that the
tyre doesn’t just “roll off the rim” to begin with…
For those of us with spatted XK’s, this is where the trouble begins…
those fat sidewalls creating the clearance loss in wheelwell, the “lateral
movement” of the tread, sidewall and entire differential assembly of up to
five more inches (at the bottom of the tyre), the side of the tyre contacts
the lower rear mounting point of the spat, pushing out this area of the rear
wing while lifting the spat off it’s pin then “flipping” the spat out into
the road… Instant Thousand Dollar Frisbee!! Assuming the Eighteen Wheeler
behind you (or in the other lane) doesn’t run over it first!!
The point being, be sure you are fixing the right problem before
investing in a set of high dollar tyres… unless you are looking for an
excuse to buy the high dollar tyres…
Oh, one bit of “cheap insurance” is to weld a “loop” on the spat’s rear
(and only the rear!!) mounting tab (on the spat… not the “pin” on the rear
wing). If in the event your radial tyre does contact that area of the spat,
the “loop” will prevent the spat from being “lifted off” it’s mounting pin,
thus retaining it’s Three Point Mount integrity…
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Knight Martorell”Roar,
At the risk of sounding like a salesman, you’re going to like the
Veredesteins !
They rub only very slightly on the FHC which does not have the modifiedlock
mechanism. They have not caused any problems and ride and handle very
nicely.
Best,
Knight
Charles,
No, by “rubbing slightly” I mean that after a 7 day rally of driving through
the mountains, when I took the skirt off, there was no mark on the tire, but
black scuff mark on the lock. About as much as I used to put on my Mom’s
newly waxed kitchen floor with my “going to Sunday School” shoes.
Considering the rigorous cornering at speed on steep grades, I sort of
consider that slightly rubbing. 
The lock modifications that I am referring to, should be in the archives,
but without photos. Sounds complicated, but was really very easy to do given
you have a skilled welder. He/she doesn’t have to be too skilled if you
haven’t already had your skirts painted. Basically, I removed the lock
mechanism and shortened the carrier. You’ll notice that there is more room
than needed in depth to hold the mechanism. So, the U-shaped portion was
shortened thereby bringing the lock closer to the skirt, more outboard, and
further away from the tire. That little 3/4 inch or so makes a big
difference.
If you want more detail, I’d be happy. Photos wouldn’t really show the
difference however. My bodyman assured me that he could do it without
harming the finished paint, and he did a nice job. That was done on the
OTS, but not the FHC w/Veredesteins. Before this was done and before
putting the michelins and Veredesteins on the cars, we had both sets of
skirts repainted a number of times. Ouch.
The safety locking system you mention was also done to both cars and is
easy.
Take care & all the best,
Knight
PS - No sir, at 51 with a 4 year old and not wanting any more grief,…“a
little bit pregnant” ain’t funny in this household !! ;-)))----- Original Message -----
From: “BISHOP13” BISHOP-13@texican.net
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: [xk] Radial tires and intererence with skirts?
Knight & Roar;
Knight, is “They rub only very slightly” the same as being “a little bit
pregnant”??
I’ve been following the posts about the tyres knocking off the XK’s
spats… not something we want to happen (it’s happened to me three times,
back in the late '60’s early '70’s) it’s a real gut-wrenching feeling! To
say the least…
A number of comments were made about “modifying” the locking mechanism in
an effort to prevent the spats from becoming “Road Frisbees”… I assume
that this “modification” is the simple act of fitting a longer mounting
screw (machine screw) to the fit the lock assembly to the spat in an
effort
to prevent the “locking tab” from coming “unlocked”… This is a good
back-up safety plan, assuming the “RUBO Gasket” is “live”, not old and
compressed, and is of correct thickness to put tension against the spat’s
lock tab (this was why my spats came off!). The longer screw, alone, is
NOT
going to prevent a fat, oversized tyre from knocking off the spat in a
“spirited” corner…
One has to look at the “how” the radial tyre dislodges the spat before
one
can implement “fixes” to prevent the problem…
The correct tyre size for the XK is 600x16 Bias Ply… Translated, the
“cross-section” (the widest part of the sidewall) is Six Inches. The
tread
width can vary between manufacturers from four inches to nearly six
inches.
The “Butch Hair Cut” look of bias tyres, tho nostalgic, was actually gone
by
the mid '60’s as tyre technology had improved by leaps and bounds after
the
“left-over” period of the early post-war years.
The smallest Sixteen Inch Radial tyre we can get “OTC” is a 205/70R16…
To “translate, the 205mm is the Cross-Section at it’s widest point… that
is 8 3/8”. the “70” means the tread of this tyre is 70% of the
Cross-Section, or about 5.75"… not a lot of “tyre patch” improvement
over
a late style 600x16, but it is an improvement as every little bit helps.
Now, we’ve all seen the “poochy”, “flat-tyre” looking appearance of
radial
tyres compared to the “straight” (vertical) sidewalls of the bias tyres…
Ever wonder why? It’s simple… there is no “sidewall” in the sidewalls
of
the modern radial, compared to the sidewalls of the bias tires… Most
radials have two thin plys for sidewalls… What does this mean? Well, it
means, at it’s extremes, that the tread can actually “travel” completely
out
from under the “width” of the rim, (that “squiggle” one experiences if one
is a “seat-of-the-pants” driver)… This is assuming, of course, that the
tyre doesn’t just “roll off the rim” to begin with…
For those of us with spatted XK’s, this is where the trouble begins…
those fat sidewalls creating the clearance loss in wheelwell, the “lateral
movement” of the tread, sidewall and entire differential assembly of up to
five more inches (at the bottom of the tyre), the side of the tyre
contacts
the lower rear mounting point of the spat, pushing out this area of the
rear
wing while lifting the spat off it’s pin then “flipping” the spat out into
the road… Instant Thousand Dollar Frisbee!! Assuming the Eighteen
Wheeler
behind you (or in the other lane) doesn’t run over it first!!
The point being, be sure you are fixing the right problem before
investing in a set of high dollar tyres… unless you are looking for an
excuse to buy the high dollar tyres…
Oh, one bit of “cheap insurance” is to weld a “loop” on the spat’s rear
(and only the rear!!) mounting tab (on the spat… not the “pin” on the
rear
wing). If in the event your radial tyre does contact that area of the
spat,
the “loop” will prevent the spat from being “lifted off” it’s mounting
pin,
thus retaining it’s Three Point Mount integrity…
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Knight Martorell”Roar,
At the risk of sounding like a salesman, you’re going to like the
Veredesteins !
They rub only very slightly on the FHC which does not have the modified
lock
mechanism. They have not caused any problems and ride and handle very
nicely.
Best,
Knight
PS - No sir, at 51 with a 4 year old and not wanting any more
grief,…“a
little bit pregnant” ain’t funny in this household !! ;-)))
Did you figure out what "caused" that problem? They say that a
majority of all accidents happen at night ;-}
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Knight Martorell”
DJ;
I had put together a “safari” of sorts to the Amazon jungle to harvest
some “wild” rubber from the Amazonian Rubber Trees… Wild rubber is better
than the domesticated rubber as it can withstand the extremes of
temperature and speeds while giving better grip in all weather conditions
and still have a high mileage rating. If the rubber is “cured” correctly,
the tyres made from it won’t even require tubes or air… that’s how good
this wild rubber is!! But, I ran into a snag building the boat for the
trip… I just couldn’t come up with a workable design for a boat that would
handle the open water of the Gulf of Mexico and the south Atlantic and be
small enough to navigate to the headwaters of the Amazon River.
Plus, the United Nations refused me the necessary permits to travel thru
the areas inhabited by the indiginious headhunters… I even offered to take
this years’ “political offerings” for barter… That was probably not a good
idea…
I will add, however, that I did go out into my hot shop and removed the
Hat Channels that are on the underside of the original Parcel Tray… I plan
on reusing them… while doing that, the “Magnetic Starter” for my Air
Compressor decided not to cycle back on when the air pressure dropped during
usage… Seems there is some sort of “thermal” shut-down inside the
starter… granted, the temp was only 101F today, but the temp inside the
shop was closer to 135F… and I think that’s pretty close to the shut-down
temp of the thermal gizmo… So, I now have to mine some “Thermal Stuff” to
make a new gizmo…
Point being, I don’t think I’ll be finished with my Jag in the next
couple of weeks…
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “D J”
Charles,
Am just delighted (& relieved) to learn you simply bought the tyres
without resorting to constructing a vulcanising plant.
In consequence that XK of yours should be on the road in a couple of
weeks now you’ve got your eye focussed on the ball.DJ
Dear Charles,
" Point being, I don’t think I’ll be finished with my Jag in the next
couple of weeks…"
I’m so pleased you got to that point as I was worried a solution to
the problems of South America was underway.
Have to confess I could hardly see the point on the screen for the
tears of laughter.
Unusual accompaniment to breakfast.
I salute the master (again.)
On a more serious note, I’m alarmed to read 'I ran into a snag
building the boat for the
trip… I just couldn’t come up with a workable design for a boat’
Charles we all have the occasional bad day. You shouldn’t let it put
you off. Learn to bounce back.
Get a hobby. Like restoring old Jags or designing steel rolling mills.
Best,
DJOn 7 Aug 2008, at 05:32, BISHOP13 wrote:
DJ;
I had put together a “safari” of sorts to the Amazon jungle to
harvest
some “wild” rubber from the Amazonian Rubber Trees… Wild rubber is
better
than the domesticated rubber as it can withstand the extremes of
temperature and speeds while giving better grip in all weather
conditions
and still have a high mileage rating. If the rubber is “cured”
correctly,
the tyres made from it won’t even require tubes or air… that’s how
good
this wild rubber is!! But, I ran into a snag building the boat for
the
trip… I just couldn’t come up with a workable design for a boat
that would
handle the open water of the Gulf of Mexico and the south Atlantic
and be
small enough to navigate to the headwaters of the Amazon River.
Plus, the United Nations refused me the necessary permits to
travel thru
the areas inhabited by the indiginious headhunters… I even offered
to take
this years’ “political offerings” for barter… That was probably
not a good
idea…
I will add, however, that I did go out into my hot shop and removed
the
Hat Channels that are on the underside of the original Parcel
Tray… I plan
on reusing them… while doing that, the “Magnetic Starter” for my Air
Compressor decided not to cycle back on when the air pressure
dropped during
usage… Seems there is some sort of “thermal” shut-down inside the
starter… granted, the temp was only 101F today, but the temp
inside the
shop was closer to 135F… and I think that’s pretty close to the
shut-down
temp of the thermal gizmo… So, I now have to mine some “Thermal
Stuff” to
make a new gizmo…
Point being, I don’t think I’ll be finished with my Jag in the next
couple of weeks…
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “D J”Charles,
Am just delighted (& relieved) to learn you simply bought the tyres
without resorting to constructing a vulcanising plant.
In consequence that XK of yours should be on the road in a couple of
weeks now you’ve got your eye focussed on the ball.DJ
Knight;
If after seven dys of driving a rally thru the mountains the only
“tyre mark” was a minor mark on the Budget Lock, then your lock
modifications turned out perfect… As I recall, even the Bias Ply 600x16’s
could leave a “skid mark” on the inner side of the spat, if the XK was
pushed hard enough… Still, tho, the tyre did not knock the spat off…
On the Lock Modifications, was that an e-mail? Or was it a “link” like
the photo archives? If the former, do you have a date and subject? A URL
for the latter?
Charles #677556.
Charles,
No, by “rubbing slightly” I mean that after a 7 day rally of driving
through
the mountains, when I took the skirt off, there was no mark on the tire,
but
black scuff mark on the lock. About as much as I used to put on my Mom’s
newly waxed kitchen floor with my “going to Sunday School” shoes.
Considering the rigorous cornering at speed on steep grades, I sort of
consider that slightly rubbing.
The lock modifications that I am referring to, should be in the archives,
but without photos. Sounds complicated, but was really very easy to do
given
you have a skilled welder. He/she doesn’t have to be too skilled if you
haven’t already had your skirts painted. Basically, I removed the lock
mechanism and shortened the carrier. You’ll notice that there is more room
than needed in depth to hold the mechanism. So, the U-shaped portion was
shortened thereby bringing the lock closer to the skirt, more outboard,
and----- Original Message -----
From: “Knight Martorell”
further away from the tire. That little 3/4 inch or so makes a big
difference.
If you want more detail, I’d be happy. Photos wouldn’t really show the
difference however. My bodyman assured me that he could do it without
harming the finished paint, and he did a nice job. That was done on the
OTS, but not the FHC w/Veredesteins. Before this was done and before
putting the michelins and Veredesteins on the cars, we had both sets of
skirts repainted a number of times. Ouch.
The safety locking system you mention was also done to both cars and is
easy.
Take care & all the best,
Knight
Charles,
It was an email and I was afraid you’d ask me that. I went through my sent
mail and cannot locate it.
So, what we did was remove the lock mechanism from the carrier by removing
the 2 screws. As mentioned before, there is a greater amount of depth, in
the carrier, than needed to hold the lock. By measuring carefully, we marked
what amount of the sides could be taken out. I believe I recall it being
about 1/2" or 3/4 " section that we took out of both sides of the carrier.
Next, we cut the sections out and & welded back, keeping the outer side of
the skirt on a iced pad. I think the iced pad was probably not needed, but
restoration work, “overkill is just right.” It was not gas welded, but mig
or tig ?, ( you would know better than I ). At any rate, my bodyman promised
that the newly finished paint would not be damaged and he did a very nice
job with it. The end result, is a carrier, the inboard edge of which, is now
closer to the skirt and the lock just slips into with minimum slop.
The second modifications is a safety lock on the fender skirt peg(s) and is
very simple. We noticed that when the skirt parted company with the car, it
did so by the rear end kicking up, and then subsequently out. So naturally
we thought that if the rear mounting peg locked into place, instead of just
resting on the peg, perhaps this would deter the skirt from coming off.
You’ll notice, ( at least all of the one I’ve seen are this way), that the
skirt leg that is notched to receive the fender’s peg, has a hole drilled a
little further up than the notch. I have no idea what this was for
originally, but I used it to bolt a section of mild steel the same width as
the skirt’s leg, and a little bit longer than the original leg. In that bit
of steel that extended the leg, I drilled a hole the diameter of the fender
peg. So now, when I put my fender skirts on, I slide the rear fender peg
into the new leg extension’s hole, then bring it down for the front to drop
into the notch. There is no way the rear mount can pop up and off. I have
these on both cars. No FrisbeeFenderSkirts have been back to the body shop
since. Knock wood.
Lastly, I put the narrowest radials on I could find and to date, that has
been the Michelins and the Veredesteins. They both are very similar in width
and I really couldn’t swear to one being wider than the other. I can,
however, swear to one being a bunch more expensive, but a tad bit better in
handling, (at least I like to think I didn’t spent the extra money for
nothing ! ;-)) I really like the way both these tires perform over the
Pirellis and the Goodyears. The cars just feel lighter on their feet and
more nimble.
I hope this is helpful. All the best,
Knight----- Original Message -----
From: “BISHOP13” BISHOP-13@texican.net
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [xk] Radial tires and intererence with skirts?
Knight;
If after seven dys of driving a rally thru the mountains the only
“tyre mark” was a minor mark on the Budget Lock, then your lock
modifications turned out perfect… As I recall, even the Bias Ply
600x16’s
could leave a “skid mark” on the inner side of the spat, if the XK was
pushed hard enough… Still, tho, the tyre did not knock the spat off…
On the Lock Modifications, was that an e-mail? Or was it a “link” like
the photo archives? If the former, do you have a date and subject? A URL
for the latter?
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Knight Martorell”Charles,
No, by “rubbing slightly” I mean that after a 7 day rally of driving
through
the mountains, when I took the skirt off, there was no mark on the tire,
but
black scuff mark on the lock. About as much as I used to put on my Mom’s
newly waxed kitchen floor with my “going to Sunday School” shoes.
Considering the rigorous cornering at speed on steep grades, I sort of
consider that slightly rubbing.
The lock modifications that I am referring to, should be in the archives,
but without photos. Sounds complicated, but was really very easy to do
given
you have a skilled welder. He/she doesn’t have to be too skilled if you
haven’t already had your skirts painted. Basically, I removed the lock
mechanism and shortened the carrier. You’ll notice that there is more
room
than needed in depth to hold the mechanism. So, the U-shaped portion was
shortened thereby bringing the lock closer to the skirt, more outboard,
and
further away from the tire. That little 3/4 inch or so makes a big
difference.
If you want more detail, I’d be happy. Photos wouldn’t really show the
difference however. My bodyman assured me that he could do it without
harming the finished paint, and he did a nice job. That was done on the
OTS, but not the FHC w/Veredesteins. Before this was done and before
putting the michelins and Veredesteins on the cars, we had both sets of
skirts repainted a number of times. Ouch.
The safety locking system you mention was also done to both cars and is
easy.
Take care & all the best,
Knight