Attention XK120 & XK140 DHC Owners!
I have added to my Photo Gallery, a few more photos and sixteen
pages of “How To” DHC Hood Installation Instructions that John Brady ('54
XK120 DHC) so painstakingly wrote up and graciously allowed me to display
for y’all’s benefit.
The URL to my Photo Gallery is: http://www.texican.net/gallery/
(save to “Favorites” or “Bookmark” for future access). On the Main Page, you
will need to scroll down to the third “Album”. Alternately, the URL:
http://www.texican.net/gallery/Hood~Inst should allow direct access.
The really nice thing about these Installation Instructions is one
can “Save As” or print out the images and text for future reference…
Please feel free to do so, for PERSONAL USE ONLY!
The Photos and Text are John Brady’s Intellectual Property and
Copyrighted Material, is posted in my Gallery with permission, any form of
public reproduction/display will need to be cleared and okayed by John
Brady, not me.
Hopefully this excellent information will give the meticulous
“at-home DHC restorer” the tools needed to install his own Hood with high
quality results.
Additionally, you can view my other “Albums” to see what’s been
keeping me out of the Pool Halls and Beer Joints ;-}
Charles #677556.
Charles,
Many thanks to John and you for sharing these very detailed instructions!
Eventhough its not a concern of mine (…to date that is!), I appreciate
both of you being so openminded!
Thanks again.
Herve----- Original Message -----
From: “BISHOP-13” bishop-13@texican.net
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 10:09 AM
Attention XK120 & XK140 DHC Owners!
http://www.texican.net/gallery/
http://www.texican.net/gallery/Hood~Inst
Herve;
You are quite welcome…
The “original” set of DHC Hood Instructions came from Peter
Fielding (in South Africa) who sent his instructions and pictures to me and
several other DHC Folks… Then a fellow 120 DHC owner, Adrian Curtis, whose
Chassis is twenty “older” than mine, did is own Hood Installation following
Peter’s information, Adrian took pictures and wrote up a set of instructions
that expended Peter’s original set… Then John Brady then did his own hood,
expanding everything even more, including additional information from Bill
“JagWillie” Bassett (Thanks Bill!!)… It has been a collective effort of a
number of folks, to say the least…
Fact is, the entirety of the XK-List is to share information to help
other’s with their XK Jaguars… Generally we do so in simple e-mails, but
there are some things because of the sheer size of the file, like the DHC
Hood Instructions, that would generally be copied and sent by “Snail Mail”…
multiply the expense of photo reprints, photocopying, postage, etc. and one
is talking a considerable sum of time and money… by putting everything in a
Photo Gallery, anyone in the world with an XK DHC and a computer has access
to this valuable information…
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Herve”
Charles,
Many thanks to John and you for sharing these very detailed instructions!
Eventhough its not a concern of mine (…to date that is!), I appreciate
both of you being so openminded!
Thanks again.
Herve
In reply to a message from BISHOP-13 sent Sat 4 Jun 2005:
Charles,
Many thanks to you, John, Peter, Bill, Adrian and everyone
else for putting together the dhc written installation
information, and photos.
My dhc hood will need eventually to be replaced, so this
info will be very useful.
Does anyone know what type of captive nuts or backing plates
are positioned inside the upper windscreen sheet metal ? In
other words, what do the screws (which hold the 3 chrome
plated adjustable hook shaped catch portions to the back of
the upper windscreen sheet metal) screw into ?
On a couple of mine, those screws, upon partial removal,
feel like whatever they screw into has come loose and is no
longer captive. I have the feeling that if I completely
remove these screws (in order to remove the chrome plated
catch portions), whatever the screws screw into will fall
down and be lost forever inside the windscreen sheet metal.–
Gary Grant S818919DN
Ottawa, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
Gary,
Be very careful with this aspect! I’d use very long (2 inch) brass
screws and replace the original when removed one at a time with the extra
long ones. I’d work at using the long screws to “hold” the plate in
position to prevent it from falling away.
The hold down catch screws thread into a tapped plate or plates (3).
On my DHC, which was badly rusted, there were no remaining signs of how
their position was held although IMHO there was indeed some type of
“cage” or thin metal box spotted to the inside cavity.
I removed the broken and rusted screws with heat after working the plates
up through slots cut through the almost rusted out gasket valley atop the
surround. I later re-captured the plates with “cages” I fabbed from iron
wire that I fished to and through holes drilled through the face (catch
side) I welded the wire and holes shut and ground them flush. The plates
still float but I’m careful about how much pressure I apply till the
screws are started. I also had to repair the rusted and slotted out
“valley” for the gasket atop the wind screen.
You really do not want to loose or drop these hidded screw plates! The
alternative would be to attemp to fish it up to a position where a screw
could be threaded in to it or to leave it rest where it landed and
replace it with some “homemade” toggle nuts of some kind.
Regards,
Rick
In reply to a message from holland-rick@juno.com sent Tue 7 Jun 2005:
Rick,
Thanks for the info regarding the captive tapped plates. I’m lucky
that I didnt just remove the screws (the loose ones which are not
rusted in place) as the captive plates would surely have fallen
down inside the windscreen surround. I like the idea of temporarily
using the long brass screws to hold the plates from falling.
The reason I want to try to remove the catches and the screws
holding them on, is to recover the wide aluminum plate under the
catches with new upholstry material, the old material being torn
off, and missing.
Upon wiggling some of the loosened screws, it feels like perhaps
the plates have broken, or perhaps each screw screws into its own
captive nut. Im afraid that if I remove even one screw, its portion
of the plate will fall down inside. Whatever is in there doesnt
feel very ‘captive’ anymore.
Perhaps, as you have done, I will have to also cut some holes in
the sheet metal to access them, before I even try to completely
remove any of the screws.
What type of upholstry material should be used to cover the wide
aluminum plate under the catches ? And should its colour match the
colour of the vinylish material on the horizontal dashboard under
the rearview mirror? Or is this plate perhaps supposed to be
covered with headliner material?
On this car, there are evidently still some upholstry material
pieces remaining underneath the catches (which seem to have never
yet been removed), but until I get the catches off I cant determine
what type or colour material it is.
Again, thanks for the info on the captive plates…I will try not
to drop them down…–
The original message included these comments:
Be very careful with this aspect! I’d use very long (2 inch) brass
alternative would be to attemp to fish it up to a position where a screw
–
Gary Grant S818919DN
Ottawa, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
Gary G;
I checked my DHC’s Windscreen Frame and the “Captive Plates” that
the Hood Clamps attach too… Mine are “captive”… they do slide left/right
and up/down but they DO NOT fall away from the interior of the windshield
frame… in fact, the plates don’t even move far enough to completely “hide”
the screw holes, not to they “fall away” from the interior of the windscreen
frame more than a millimeter.
I suspect the reason Rick H’s may have done so, based upon his
description of the rusted-out top of the frame, is additional rust damage
has taken it’s toll inside, as well…
I would do, as Rick suggested, thread a much longer screw “thru” the
latches that will allow you to withdraw the latches while still retaining
“control” of the Captive Plates, this way you can make the determination if
yours are going to stay “in place” or attempt to “fall away”, without
running the risk of losing them completely…
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Gary Grant”
In reply to a message from holland-rick@juno.com sent Tue 7 Jun 2005:
Rick,
Thanks for the info regarding the captive tapped plates. I’m lucky
that I didnt just remove the screws (the loose ones which are not
rusted in place) as the captive plates would surely have fallen
down inside the windscreen surround. I like the idea of temporarily
using the long brass screws to hold the plates from falling.The reason I want to try to remove the catches and the screws
holding them on, is to recover the wide aluminum plate under the
catches with new upholstry material, the old material being torn
off, and missing.Upon wiggling some of the loosened screws, it feels like perhaps
the plates have broken, or perhaps each screw screws into its own
captive nut. Im afraid that if I remove even one screw, its portion
of the plate will fall down inside. Whatever is in there doesnt
feel very ‘captive’ anymore.Perhaps, as you have done, I will have to also cut some holes in
the sheet metal to access them, before I even try to completely
remove any of the screws.What type of upholstry material should be used to cover the wide
aluminum plate under the catches ? And should its colour match the
colour of the vinylish material on the horizontal dashboard under
the rearview mirror? Or is this plate perhaps supposed to be
covered with headliner material?On this car, there are evidently still some upholstry material
pieces remaining underneath the catches (which seem to have never
yet been removed), but until I get the catches off I cant determine
what type or colour material it is.Again, thanks for the info on the captive plates…I will try not
to drop them down…
Gary
I believe the aluminum face plate was originally covered with a cloth
fabric. I removed my pretty good green one years ago and replaced it with
black vinyl, as the rest of the interior had been redone in black as opposed
to the original green. I can try to fish it out and take a picture if that
would be helpful.
Phil Planck - 677139
In reply to a message from P. Planck sent Wed 8 Jun 2005:
Phil,
Thanks for the info. Yes if you could send or post a photo
of the green cloth fabric, that would be helpful. Perhaps
this is an example of the wool, previously mentioned.
Sticking out from under my catches, I can see the edges of
the remains of some sort of fabric, or woolcloth, of some
type. It doesnt have a shiney vinylish appearance, but is
quite deteriorated and clearly has small threads imbedded in
it. The exposed edges are so faded I cant tell what colour
it was, it is just brownish grey now. When I do manage to
remove or at least loosen and pull back the catches, I am
hoping I can find an unfaded portion.
I hope that I will eventually recover that aluminum plate
with whatever type of cloth or fabric I end up using for the
headliner.
My headliner is presently an old vinyl replacement
headliner, and the aluminum plate is just bare metal.
Perhaps, I might, in the short term, try temporarily
covering the aluminum plate with some vinyl, to at least
cover over the bare metal and sort of match the existing
headliner.–
Gary Grant S818919DN
Ottawa, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
Hi Cb1 Charles, i cannot get onto the website to look at the 140dhc hood recover. can anyone help please, cheers Stuart
Hi Stu,
That website that Charles maintained is long gone.
Post your email and I will send you the instructions. Seems to be new interest in this. I sent them out to a fellow in Germany last week.
John Brady
Hi John, i drop a message through email cheers stu.
I am also VERY interested in this as I need to dismantle restore and rebuild my hood.
John, I’m about 3 months away from tackling the hood on my 1953 xk120 DHC and would appreciate a copy of the instructions. My email is: vignadelmonte@yahoo.com Thanks in advance so much for the copy,John Fulton
Just a tip - the chrome screws that hold the three latches to the hoodframe header rail are only threaded into holes drilled and tapped in that header rail. When doing mine, I did not consider this arrangement satisfactory as there’s not much meat in such a short threaded hole. I welded steel blocks behind the frame in these areas and redrilled and tapped them to take longer screws. These are concealed behind the headlining and padding so cannot be accessed if the threads strip. The lateral force on them, when closing a new hood, is quite substantial, hence my concerns.
Dear All,
I am just about to fit a new hood to my 120 53 DHC and I read through this post with interest, especially Roger’s advice about the chrome screws on the hood frame.
Does anyone have a copy of the detailed instructions mentioned in 2005? (see below)
“The “original” set of DHC Hood Instructions came from Peter
Fielding (in South Africa) who sent his instructions and pictures to me and
several other DHC Folks… Then a fellow 120 DHC owner, Adrian Curtis, whose
Chassis is twenty “older” than mine, did is own Hood Installation following
Peter’s information, Adrian took pictures and wrote up a set of instructions
that expended Peter’s original set… Then John Brady then did his own hood,
expanding everything even more, including additional information from Bill
“JagWillie” Bassett (Thanks Bill!!)… It has been a collective effort of a
number of folks, to say the least.”
If anyone does could they email them to me please, the email is clunasnairn@yahoo.co.uk.
Thanks in anticipation
David
David:
I have sent you a private message.
Chris.
Hood Frame question.
I have started to strip the old hood material from the frame and overhaul the frame. There are two black, hard rubber blocks, one at each rear end of the upper front arms, that seem to buffer the arms as the hood frame closes as it comes forward and latches with catches above the windscreen. They are quite worn and I can’t find any evidence of them in any parts catalogue, the only part number I have is BD8532, Hood Frame Buffer(?), but none of the suppliers recognise it. Does anyone have any idea what the part number is?
Thanks
David
David,
Bassetts have them.
jw