[xk] Re: XK Digest V1 #3770 - re: rear axle huib puller

Suggestion from Larry Schear

1 - avoid using heat - you don’t want to do ANYTHING to compromise the heat
treatment of the rear axle!

2 - While a rented, proper tool would be nice, here’s a work-around that’s
stood me in good stead over the years (yes, I knew someone with a proper
hub puller, but, at that time, it was worth twice its weight in platinum,
and couldn’t be rented or borrowed!) - take an old knock-off from the
appropriate side (left and right ARE different!y-threaded) (today, best to
use one of the newer, earless ones - I used old beat-up eared ones, buit
couldn’t bring myself to do that today!), drill a 1" diameter hole in the
center of it (it’s bronze, and very hard - very sharp, slow-turning
preferably tungsten-coated drill bit - the first one I did, I drilled a
series of small holes in a circle, then beat out the center with a cold
chisel; the second one (for the other side, of course), I used a fly cutter
in a drill press - very dangerous, but it worked - today, I’d use an ol;d
hub to mount the knock-off and chuck the hub into the drill press table). -
OK, the hole is in. Soak the hub, inside and out, if possiblem, with
penetrating oil (Kano, CXRC-556, opr WD-40, for instance) - use an
induatrial-size 3-jawed gear-puller (Crafytsman from Sears or rent one from
Pep Boys (1" diameter drive screw) 9 don’t even think of using s cheap
tool; it’ll probably break, and may yield shrapnel!) - put a nut on the
axle threads flush with the end of the thread, put the hioled knoxck-off on
the hum, tighten a bit, though not as much as if a wheel were there, fit
the geat-puller so the 3 jaws are equiduistant (120 degrees apart from one
another) around the periphy of the knock-off, apply pressure tot he
gear-puller screw, hitthe end of the screw with a massive hammer (made for
hitting metal - use either a 32+ oz. ball pein hammer or the copper-headed
knowck-off hammer), add a bit more ‘twist’ to the gear-piluller screw, and
repeat as needed. The hammer hit on the screw sends a shock wave through
the assembly, and may free up the hub (it’s held to the axle through a long
taper - lots of surface area for rust! - and a long rectangular key (like a
Woodruff key, but parallel; no curve). This is what you’re trying to
overcome. If you try to use a gear-puller with the jaws attached to the
surface used to fasten the brake drum, when yoou apply pressure, you’tre
actuallytrying to squeeze the front portion of the taper tighter on the
axle shaft!

PLEASE wear safewty glasses, make sure nothing’s in the way of th hub when
it conmes flying off the axle, and be careful!

Best iof luck!

:Larry Schear
Twin Cam, Inc.----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 04:50:48 +0100
From: “Geoff Rogers” jollyrogersmo@hotmail.com
Subject: [xk] Removing XK140 rear splined hubs

I have a feeling this will not be easy. How do I remove the left
rear hub from my '55 140 fhc? The splines are stripped. I have a
new one from England, but so far it has not installed itself. Does
somebody rent the correct tool to make this happen? Or must I torch
the thing to bits?
Any advice would be greatfully appreciated!
Geoff Rogers

Geoff Rogers
Shutesbury, MA, United States

Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:34:25 -0700
From: “Mark Stephenson” marks@jaguarot.com
Subject: RE: [xk] Rebodied Cadillac - No Jag Content

Can you say hideous? Sure, I knew you could. (Apologies to Mr. Rogers)


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org
[mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of Jim Reminga
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 8:47 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [xk] Rebodied Cadillac - No Jag Content

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 07:27:44 +0100
From: “Ed Nantes” enantes@bigpond.com
Subject: Re: [xk] Removing XK140 rear splined hubs

In reply to a message from Lannes sent Thu 13 Nov 2003:

All very good and only one step short of using nuclear weapons to
dislodge it.
You need to keep the taper on the half shaft unharmed to mate with
the new hub,
If you can’t get a puller of the sort that threads onto the hub,
then you could remove the backing plate and halfshaft from the car.
A large garage press can be used to apply pressure to the end of
the half shaft [ leave the nut on partially to protect the thread.]
When the pressure is well and truly applied, usually a sharp wack
with a hammer on the hub will free it. Surprise, they come apart
with a bang.
The more important trick is reassembling it properly and this was
covered in a previous post recently.