Brilliant video, Nick! Thanks for posting.
Got mine today from Guy Broad here in the UK. Apparently they supply them toTerry’s. Cost: £39.90 plus £1.38 postage. I’m happy!
That looks like the ticket Nick. I assume you’ll silicone the metal housing in place?
I’m not super thrilled with that gap. I think you’ll need to find the thickest gasket available to take up the gap lest you end up putting stress on the side rails of the sump and have them crack. Cosmetics are going to be too thin. I think I’d be tempted to try and pare down the top and bottom of that part to try and close the gap a bit.
I wondered that, too. Seems a shame to modify the seal, but easier than machining a tad out of the grooves, I guess…
Fortunately it wouldn’t be changing the seal, but instead the seal carrier. Assuming it was reduced evenly top and bottom, and then glued in with silicone, it should both find it’s natural center as well as be free from leaks around the side.
All he has to do is to use the stock gasket, use PlastiGauge on the seal’s edge, snug down the pan, and see what clearance he gets.
If ± 0.001", RTV will work fine.
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Good observation. No worries. I didn’t have the seal fully seated when I took the video. The interference fit is actually rather good. There was practically no gap to deal with when I installed the seal today. I recommend being careful with the RTV. You don’t want squeeze out interfering with the spring in the lip.
There’s another active thread about changing out the front seal in a later engine in which it’s pointed out you can do the job with the timing cover in place. With this seal and timing cover you can’t. You have to seat and seal the seal in the timing cover, lube it well and slide it over the distance piece in its place on the crank.
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- List item
Goes w/o saying: that’s why I usually indicate “a thin schmear.”
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I used an acid brush to apply a thin coat to both mating surfaces. There was still a bit of squeezout, but that’s what you want to see. Just not too much squeezout.
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I ordered one from Terry’s, the one marked for XK120, C2306C.
It obviously isn’t correct. The one I’ve gotten is 2.75" OD. EDIT: 2.575" OD
Can you measure the one that fits, let’s see if they have a few marked wrong.
Too late to measure mine, Mitch, but the part number C2306C is the same and the measurement I recorded for the recess in the timing cover was 2.563" across. If yours is the same then it should fit with a bit of a nudge, though that pic sure looks like a mismatch.
You’re having more than your fair share of frustrations with your engine rebuild.
My recess opening in the:
cover 2.540"
crank case 2.609"
The seal is 2.575"
I’m going to give the benefit of the doubt to the guy churning out the seals. Given that the boys in the factory were smashing rope into the recess, QC in this area wasn’t top priority.
I’ll have at it at the belt sander and see if I can shave a bit off of it.
For you guys doing these seal modifications, I’m curious to know what you’re gonna do 10-15 years down the road when the rubber starts getting worn, hard and passing oil just like the old rope seals? Pull the engine and change 'em out again? I’m not knocking you, it’s just something that’d never occur to me to do though I know that’s just my opinion only.
BTW, you’ll be preventing them from marking their territory.
Hell, I’ll likely be dead in 10 or 15 years.
I’ll be 73: Margaret will have gone to her new steward, and I won’t give two tosses.
(Margaret also uses, from the git-go, real seals!)
On top of that, if the seal lasted, leak-free for 10 years? it woulda beat the rope seal by 9 years…
I don’t know if I’ll be leak free in 10-15 years.
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If in 10-15 years the only thing that’s leaking is the front seal well, then, I’ll be ok with that.
This lip seal will start to leak well after the rope seal would.
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Then they’ll leak just like rope seals. Heck, every other seal in the car will be worn and hard too.
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I’m just barely out of diapers myself, 'cuz I’m young.
I said YOUNG!!!
I got it to fit. I shaved a bit out of the cover’s channel to make it a wee bit closer in width and depth to the channel in the case, and sanded a bit off the metal ring.
As Nick said, it won’t take much sealant to fill in around the edge. It’s very snug.
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Along with our Depends as we drive…