I am replacing front suspension bushings on my 120 and in taking things apart, notice that looking aft at the torsion bar reaction plate lever adjustment bolts, that the RH side has .8" of thread showing on the unloaded side of the brass barrel bolt. The LH side has 1.45" of thread showing.
I assume one of the two levers is fitted a few splines off, but the car sat and rode well.
Anyone ever compare the adjustments side to side?
On my XK120, there’s about 3/4 inch of thread below the brass nut on the passenger side and 2 inches of thread below the brass nut on the driver’s side. I think the car has a near perfect stance front to rear and left to right, and it seems to handle fine.
When I rebuilt the front suspension, I marked the male ends of the torsion bars and the corresponding female flanges with paint to aid in reassembly. I was trying to ensure that the torsion bar splines would be aligned exactly the same before and after the front suspension rebuild. Maybe the difference in the amount of thread below the brass nuts has to do with torsional differences in the bars themselves due to age.
Thanks for the reply, Mike. My car rides nicely and sits well, also. I thought about just rotating the LH reaction bar a spline or two counterclockwise (facing aft) and making the two adjustment lengths more equal, but based on yours, I may just put it back as it was. I have marked all parts so as to retain position. also.
I would like to hear what others have observed on the adjustment bolt lengths.
On my 120 they are about even. On my Mark V they were about even before I restored it, but they are not yet readjusted for the final weight. Here is a picture of the Mark V chassis upside down.
I think a difference of over an inch represents one of the torsion bar levers being one notch off. If I recall correctly, the torsion bars have a different number of splines front to back. You have to match them up using the distance piece shown on Plate J3 in the Service Manual, or make some equivalent spacing device, and follow the instructions. The distance piece takes the place of the shock absorber and simulates how the car should be at correct riding height fully assembled with average driver and passenger.
Remember that the torsion bars are marked on the rear end for OS offside right hand, and NS nearside left hand. Don’t put them on the wrong sides.
I have noticed a difference in thread exposure between my torsion bars also. I just checked and on the driver’s side there is an inch of thread showing below the brass nut while on the passenger’s side there is an inch and five eights. The car sits correctly and, if you measure from the frame to ground, evenly, it also handles perfectly. I have never adjusted or dismantled them in my over fifty years of ownership.
Regards,
Chris.