For those who have a DHC and have removed the hood frame, a query.
I had noticed that the chrome headed pins that go through the hood frame and form the main pivot point for the top (just aft of the B panel) were sitting proud of the metal. Upon removing one it appears that at some point in the past someone had the top off (I had a new shell made up many years ago, perhaps this is when) and failed to get the threaded end into the inner metal of the frame. The depth of the thread on the pin being the distance the chrome head sits away from the opposite metal frame.
My question is, what is the trick in getting the pin to thread in as it should? I have spent quite a bit of time without any luck so far. The hood assembly is pretty hefty and working single-handed has not helped, but even though I can get the whole thing looking like it is aligned correctly and the pin slides through everything, it will note thread home. I have loosened the two bolts that secure the bracket that holds the whole thing, thinking that a degree of ‘float’ may allow for improved alignment to no avail.
While I rarely put the top up, it would be nice to get these two pins cinched up properly. Any thoughts, observations would be appreciated.
Back in March last year I asked if any DHC owners had resolved the problem of aligning the main hinge pins on which the hood pivots. While mine went through the bush they refused to thread into the other side of the frame.
As I did not hear anything from anyone, and following another recent unsuccessful attempt when a visiting friend gave me a hand, I addressed my brain to the issue again. The problem was aligning the two sides of the frame and the bush, bearing in mind that the threads on the pin are fine. Sliding an appropriate sized drift in to get everything aligned did not help so I decided that what was required was to shape the end of the pin into a point and thus, hopefully, allow the threaded end to catch. Removing the pin I found an appropriate nut that fit the threads, however, this left too little of the threads exposed. Grinding the nut down and refitting it I initially tried grinding the end of the pin with the bench grinder, but found that locking the shortened nut in the vise and threading the pin in plus cinching it up tightly in order to stop it rotating allowed me more control using a file. After shaping the end into a reasonable taper I tapped it gently home with a rawhide hammer and, after gently rotating with my 3/4" socket, the threads caught and I was able to tighten the pin up flush with the hood frame arm.
Following lubrication of all the pivot points on the hood, probably for the first time in the car’s history, the raising process is now considerably smoother. As this process worked on one side I am optimistic it can be duplicated on the other.
Chris.
P.S. By hood I mean convertible top, of course, not bonnet.