XK120 FHC NDV buildup pics

Foolishly, I neglected to take pics (or at least good ones) of the NDV area of my '53 120 FHC as I dismantled the NDV area to rebuild it from tin worm damage. Does anyone have any buildup pics of what goes on that area after the naked metal? If possible, I need the order of assembly, the type of fasteners (small copper spread-leg rivets, screws, etc.) and anything else that’ll help with this part.

I have all the books, but none have adequate pictures AFAIK. Any help would be appreciated.

Best regards, Brian

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Are you referring to the Front or rear?

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Hi Phil, I’m referring to the rear push out vent window and both inside and/or outside buildups will be appreciated. I lost too much to the tin worm and some parts, I’m afraid weren’t there. So I have to figure out how things go together and fit correctly.

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My car is unrestored in this area and probably never taken apart there. The suede green rexine between the wood and rubber is original, and I believe is wrapped around a piece of thin plywood and held on by bifurcated copper rivets. Then wood screws go through that into the wood to hold it on. Then the screw heads are covered by the rubber.
This is how my Mark V saloon was made, and I am making the assumption that XK120 FHC construction methods would be the same.

These are great Rob. Now, I’m hoping to get photos of all of this being built up layer by layer from bare metal to finished product. For instance, it seems there is a thin aluminum curved piece that goes on in the inside area somewhere and, if so, what is its function? I guess it’s a continuation of the thin aluminum piece all along the top under the headliner.

Now I need to get the number and placement of bifurcated small copper rivets, etc.

Thanks again for these.

Best, Brian

not sure these will helpIMG_1562

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Hi Phil, yes these do help. I am down to the part where I made and replaced the vertical curved “lip” from the top of the curved area of the top where the NDV is fastened to the bottom area. Since my metal was gone, I have to ask if that vertical “lip” (I’m calling it) stops about 1.5" or 2" from the bottom of the rain channel and several more inches from the edge where the door shut pillar is. If so can you tell me exactly how much since scant indications of what was left seemed to be that that vertical “lip” extended to the little horizontal flat are or “table” just before the door shut (or B-pillar)?

Also, I have to ask about the area, (Extreme Close Up nine pictures down from top on my screen) which shows a ‘squarish’ metal (aluminum?) NDV shaped item just behind, and enclosing, - something - that ends at the vertical “lip”. If I’m correct, that is an aluminum shaped molding piece, but I do not know what it is enclosing. As it turns out, since that is made of aluminum I have a matched set left in a box, but I cannot fathom what it is enclosing. Also, if I’m correct, that item is held on with the bifurcated copper rivets I spoke of. Can you confirm that and, if so, how many are there along entire top and bottom? Also is the rubber seal for this are just one or two separate pieces and does to outermost one (if two) go against the “lip” between it and the chrome NDV body unit itself?

Thanks again for all your considertaions folks. Keep the info coming if possible.

Best, Brian

My car is all back together now Brian so i can offer much more help. i will re look at the photo album to see if there is anything more.

This is for a 140 , perhaps the same ?

Yes Jim, they do seem to be the exact same. That shows me kind of the what. Now, do you have any videos , or still pics, of what you’ve done with all that to restore it?

I still am hazy, as apparently you are in this video, about what goes under the aluminum strip that is covered with Rexine. Also you rightly question how the interior wood goes on to be fastened from the backside - did you figure that out? And what goes under the aluminum shaped , rexine covered strip - is it plywood as I think you said (I am a bit hard of hearing and across the pond so not used to english inflections)?

Whatever - thanks for this. It looks to be spot on.

1/8 inch Baltic birch plywood is what is used. Brass split rivers are installed with the head on the outside through the body flange, the wood and the vinyl covered aluminum and the tails are bent over on the inside. I made a template of the wood when I made new pieces but unfortunately I didn’t keep a copy. I would have gladly sent it to you if I did. The pictures show what it looks like all assembled.
Cliff

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I would also like to add that the after the aluminum is covered with the vinyl it is attached to the plywood with upholstery tacks to hold everything together before it’s attached to the car.
Also note that the plywood is scalloped. The reason that it dips down towards the aluminum strips is because that is where the headliner bows attached to the body.
Cliff

Brian , no more pics yet as I will not be doing the trim till later on , I will see if I can add sub-titles next time for you !

Thanks for the pics Cliff . Why is the ply wider than the ally ? Is it just to add more stiffness and strength to the assembly ?

Yes, thanks very much for the pics cliff. Good stuff.

The extra width of the plywood is to have some room for tacking the headliner in place. The burl walnut cantrail trim is wider than the aluminum strips and will cover the headliner nails when installed.
Cliff

last pics i have

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Cliff, or anyone, do you know where to get the brass (or copper) split rivets like those employed. I’ve searched for them and only came up with some that don’t seem to be the same or similar being split down to the head. Also, if the headliner is nailed to the Birch areas it seems like that’d be very difficult and instead should be attached by some kind of mechanical means like a staple gun. In America I couldn’t find any 1/4" leg staples when doing the door cards of my E-Type. Does nayine have any other ideas for ultimately attaching the headliner to the wood?

Additionally, the aluminum shaped piece that accepts the 1/8" Birch plywood seems filled with more that that from the posted pictures. What is that?

Brian
I’m pretty sure that I got the split rivets from either restoration supply or restoration specialties. They both have a lot of obscure bits for old cars. I can check my receipts if you can’t find them.
Looking at the aluminum pieces might you be seeing the remnants of the vinyl that covered the aluminum strips?
I used very small upholstery tacks on the headliner. They are maybe 3/16" long. Get a upholstery hammer (it has a magnetic head that holds the tack) to install them. You’re going to need one anyway to upholster your seats.
Cliff

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Brass-Plated-Paper-Fasteners-Split-Pins-Butterfly-Clip-32mm-1-25/142840244572?var=441840045538&hash=item2141f1295c:m:mb_vsXCd9Xlz1micbXzDdnw
Would these work if you can’t get them? You would have to flatten the head .