My steering box developed a bad leak and in attempting to tighten one of the nuts on the bracket clip on the end plate (127), I snapped one of the two studs. This bracket is the one that has the clip that holds the stator tube. I’d be grateful for any advice on how to proceed or redeem the situation. Presumably it means removing the end plate (3989) and getting a new stud inserted? Thanks.
When a similar situation occurred with one of the cam cover studs on my car some years ago I drilled into the remains of the stud and used an e-zee-out of the appropriate diameter to turn out the old one.
You can remove part H and extract or drill out the broken stud, but be careful not to let the bearing race K get loose, or you will have balls L falling out. All the oil will leak out when you do this. It is SAE 140. Use a good sealer on those shims and H and G and it shouldn’t leak there. I like Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker.
Thanks Chris and Rob. Hugely appreciated and leaving me in a more optimistic mood. I’ve already passed my level of incompetence so will take the end plate to a local machine shop. Thanks also for the advice on the bearing race and the Permatex (which sounds just what I need). I don’t suppose you know the threads on the studs because I assume it has to be made and can’t be bought from one of the usual Jag suppliers?
Unfortunately the parts catalogues only give the Burman part numbers, but without checking, my recollection is the steering box was all BSF threads, so those two little studs would be 1/4 BSF.
You can get BSF studs in the US at Britishfasteners.com or possibly Moss Motors. There are probably a lot of places to get them in the UK.
Just finished the rebuild of my XK 120 Steering Box. I can confirm that these 2 nuts are 1/4 BSF indeed. But the studs you refer to are welded to the Lower Bracket so you will have to remove this bracket completely. I guess that complete removing the broken stud and drilling a hole + tapping 1/4 BSF thread will allow you to place a new stud that can be welded at the backside.
The most difficult part will be to keep the lower bearing race (and all 14 balls) in the steering housing when removing this bracket. You could use a temporary replacement plate or strips to prevent that the bearing race can move outwards. Remember that creating a gap of just 1 mm will allow the balls to get out of position and you will have to redo the complete operation of mounting the lower bearing race with balls + lots of grease (guess how I know…).
As you apparently have a leak down there, it would be better to replace the gaskets. You need 2 Gaskets (Jaguar code 3984) just for the lower part (this in contradiction with what Jaguar refers to: 1 Gasket 3984 at the top and 1 at the lower end): one in front and one behind the shims will provide a better sealing.This operation may slightly affect the axial play of the Inner Column but (if required) you could leave out one of the shims for compensation.
Thanks Rob and Bob.
So, reasonably good news about the stud and its replacement. Less good and more worrying is the removal of the end plate to get the stud replaced. My present thinking is to slacken each of the four nuts sufficiently to slide in temporary holding strips and not disturb the lower bearing race - assuming that is possible (and sensible)?
Yes, that should work. Stick a knife blade in there as you pull the end plate. Don’t touch the steering wheel while you have things apart. Duct tape could hold the bearing until you are ready to put it back.
Thanks, Rob. Feeling a bit more confident about it now. I wont go near the steering wheel…
One other thing. As you pull the plate the lower stator tube will start to come out with it. That won’t hurt anything, but try to let it come out only an inch or two. It fits inside the upper stator tube and there is a guide slot that has to be lined up again if it comes out too far.