XK140 Sump on a Mk1 Engine

Thanks Dan, it will be angled towards the front and up.

Regards,
James

Perhaps the Mark 1 filter had to be angled up to clear some other obstruction, and at first they used a blanking plate with only 3 holes, but later found it was cheaper to just not drill the hole.
Since your block is already out of the car and disassembled, and if you can find the suitable parts, say from a Mark IX, I would be inclined to drill the hole and convert the engine completely to XK140 specifications.

Hi Rob, I need to determine where the hole goes. If it just dumps straight into the crankcase then yes it would be best to drill a new one.

More research is required!

Thanks,
James

Yes, it just dumps straight back into the sump.

When the pump is putting out more oil than can be squeezed through the bearings, the relief valve opens and the excess goes back into the sump.

The hole is on the same level as the pump supply hole, same diameter, and 2" forward center to center.

Thanks Rob, this helps a lot. The hole should be easy to add, now I just need to find the correct filter head and the oil pickup pipes.
James

Hey, went and took a measurement and picture on my 140 OTS left hand drive oil filter conversion. Looks like from the block to the sheet metal you have 10” and 6” from the filter housing. Hope this helps a little. My filter adapter puts the spin in filter straight down.

Thanks Dan, I’ll do some measuring on my engine.
Regards
James

Later they found out venting the return onto the spinning crankshaft was aerating the oil and it was best to vent it below the oil level. This was engineering decision, not accounting.

The XJ6 style straight out to the side filter/mount easily clears the frame.

I see, I thought there might be a reason for the change! Thanks very much for the info Mike.

I think I will stick with the Mk1 oil pan and filter head using a spin on adapter as long as it doesn’t interfere with the forward carb.

J

Regards,
James