Hello all, I had a multiple question on the forum and now believe, for best response I should limit one question at a time.
I have trawled down the archives but unable to get a satisfactory answer.
Can I please call on your experience to inform me on how to shim the steering rack on my recently purchased 1959 XK150. I am referring to the shims within the rack tube, not at the rack mountings.
I have the XK up on my lift with wheels and both track rod ends removed. It is impossible to get any for or aft movement when pulling or pushing in the inner track rod.
It appears to be shimmed up too tight. Steering was very stiff hence checking the rack.
Is it necessary to remove the rack (hopefully not) in order to carry out the required necessary adjustments and what is the best line of approach.
Thanks in advance.
FWIW, the 140 was first with R&P steering, and assuming a carry-over to the 150, that set-up had a spring-loaded “puck” that bears against the (moving) rack shaft. I would back this adjustment bolt off as a first step. From memory, the other adjustment lies within the worm gear itself as it’s proximity to the shaft is located/adjusted by it’s top retainer plate. This retainer plate has inner circumference serrations which engage the outer circumference serrations of the worm gear’s bearing, but this top plate has it’s “serrated hole” offset with respect to the centerline of the plate, allowing 4 different location indexes as it is rotated to the 4 possible positions. The top 4 bolts must be removed to change this backlash, however.
I may not have gotten all of the part designations correct, but I hope the general idea was conveyed.
Hi Lee thanks for that. Can I ask where exactly is the ‘puck’ located which you suggest backing off.
I had noted when disconnecting the track rod ends that the inner track rod was very tight, almost allowing the rod to be extended upwards and retaining that position when let go of it. I removed the rubber boot and undone the large cup nut attached to the end of the steering shaft (end opposite steering box). Additional shims were added inside this ‘cup nut’ to allow a ‘limpness’ feel to the rod. Had hoped this would also have helped ease some of the overall stiffness but unfortunately not. I will certainly try your suggestion prior to removing the steering rack. On that note, can the steering rack be removed with the car up on my lift ? Does the radiator and fan guard have to be removed?
The adjustment bolt/spring/puck assembly is at the front of the steering box, facing up toward the radiator, at 90* to the centerline of the box, directly over where the sliding rack moves thru the box. Sighting along the rack should reveal it to you. Bolt head is fairly large, probably 3/4" or so. On the 140, the lower radiator shroud makes servicing the rack tough/impossible as it sits quite close to the rack, obscuring it.