Stuff like that is very easy to draw up in CAD. Once you have the drawing you can have flat work produced very cheaply cut from flat stock via water jet or laser. So cheap and easy I don’t even attempt to do it by hand anymore.
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One would need to use the 2 as cast flow paths that exit the head on intake side…the head core plugs method would not allow flow thru the intake valve coolant passages…stagnation would result there.
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Once again, thanks for the great info.
I’ve looked into how to do a leak down test. Seems pretty straight forward. I’ll try to borrow or buy a basic kit this week and get it done. If it fails, does that indicate which valve is burnt or damaged? Or just that one is?
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Make sure you’re at TDC (both valves closed). Then, if the leak is substantial enough, you might hear the air exiting either the intake (carbies–open the throttle fully) or exhaust (tailipipe), or (if rings) the crankcase vent. Might hear it in the cooling system if head gasket. Sometimes you can’t hear anything, though. IMHO.
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If there is enough leakage to cause a 15-25 pound difference from the other cylinders, you will hear it.
When you get to the offending cylinder, use a garden hose into each of the carb mouths, or listen up the exhaust pipe: that will localize, to the extent possible, which valve is leaking.
I may have missed it, but have the valve clearances been checked? If not, that is the very next step.
A way too tight valve clearance on #2 intake would cause some loss of compression…but I think his engine still has the cam covers on.
Wiggs we know its No 2 or 5 depending which way the OP is checking and notating the cylinder positions 
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Dont want to seem overly pessimistic here, and agree that various test should be performed, (prior to an engine strip down)
based upon the (few) 40+ yr old XJ engines I have taken apart, all have had bore/piston/ring wear and partial head stud corrosion
therefore on 0% ratio it would probably not be feasible imo to use a “barn” XJ engine in a performance type application without stripping it down first
others may differ…interested to hear
I’m counting the back cylinder as #1. I’ve read and been told that this is correct, but of course I could be wrong.
Totally reasonable advice on a ‘barn’ XK engine. While I’m wanting to add a little more power through better carburetors (rebuilt or swapped), I’m planning on keeping everything else stock. If I could get it up to 200hp, I’d be very happy. The replica car it would go in is only 2,200 pounds including the engine and has skinny tires, so my performance needs are quite low. I just want a Jaguar heart and a little zip from 10-40 mph.
Because this is a learning experience for me, and because I want it to be a reliable long lasting power plant, I’m tempted to take it apart and make everything nice and perfect on the inside. Seems within my capabilities and I would enjoy the challenge and DIY satisfaction.
On a side note, after much hassle and struggle, I finally got the intake manifold off. I discovered CRC Freeze Off spray and it did wonders.
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Correct No1 is at the firewall a possible throw back to the designers being involved with aircraft engines previously.
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the generally accepted wisdom within our local Jag Club is that an old crankshaft is likely to have its oil galleries substantially blocked by encrusted oil residue.
This requires the crank plugs to be taken out, which is difficult for DIY, as the plugs are tapered and peened in, normally machine shop
there is much information on this forum about this issue (search in archives)
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Yes, the Jag manual says to remove plugs and clean.
Here’s one of mine.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1311629311
Rob
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Fortunately there’s a guy in my small town who’s really good with Jags and other British cars. He would definitely be my backup in case I get into something that’s beyond my skill set or learning curve.
I’ll be putting this XK on an engine stand soon. Haven’t bought the stand yet, but I’ll get a maxed out heavy duty one with four wheels on it (the T base stands looks sketchy). Anyway, not rocket science, but since a mistake would be dangerous and expensive, I thought I’d ask in case I’m missing something. I’m assuming these XKs are pretty top heavy by nature when put on a stand. Anything I should watch out for? Will it ‘spin’ upside down suddenly or slowly turn when the rotation pin is released?
As for holes, I was going to use 1, 8, 5, and 6 (see picture) unless there are better ones to use.
Those are the ones to use, and align the rotating center of the stand just above the top surface of the flywheel flange.
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Of course, the COG changes quite dramatically with crankshaft installed/removed…that baby is hea-VY.
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Your bench… makes me realize I’m in good company…
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No use having things hiding
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