There has been lots written already on this topic, clearly because there are lots of details that have already been handled. However I am still not at all clear exactly how the rear bumpers are bolted up.I have already bolted up the front ones, after I had installed the mounting brackets with captive nuts inside the front of the bonnet.My tub is a rebuilt one ( by Martin Robey in UK ) and I do not see any installed captive nuts or bolts at the rear for the bumpers.There is just a hole in the tub at either rear side.I would be grateful for any information on this topic.It is even possible that the tub is missing holes or captive nuts in view of its rebuild history,
Title should read …1970…my bad.
Missing but/bolt holes from robey is no surprise to me. I have two brand new rear wings from them, neither had the holes for the bumper location at the front. Also it looks like they made them without ensuring they each are mirror images of each other, only discovered when aligning the doors by me so it looks like more metalwork is required , and this is after the car has been painted!!!
Now it does. …
John, the entire bumper is bolted together in one piece and then attached to the body. There is one hole in the body at each end of the bumper where it bolts to the car from under the fender. There should be a stud welded to the body on the side approx 18" from the end that the bumper fastens onto with a nut. Hopefully the photo will help.
Andy 69 S2
1 Like
I recently put my rear bumper on (couple of months back) and I found that in a perfect world bolting it all together and offering it up to the body is the best/correct way, but it did not work for me.
What I did was covered the paint in tape to protect it, loosely bolted up the center section, then the sides. Then slowly snugged up all the bolts with some shimming as I went along. I even had to grind off some metal from the edge of the corner sections to get a decent consistent gap for the rubber, that I glued on using PF224 and tape to hold it in place over night.
Pat
[quote=“Andy.Preston, post:5, topic:384561”]
There should be a stud welded to the body on the side approx 18" from the end that the bumper fastens onto with a nut. Hopefully the photo will help.
[/quote]Hi Andy, Well that photo tells almost all of the story…many thanks.You have the stud top centre of the pic…I have a hole on this , and on side is the tank but there is some access, and on the other side its easy. I have a captive nuts on the underside of the shelf, but no holes over the wheel well, but
thats easy to fix. So many thanks .I can now make plans!!
Hi Pat, When I get to this stage I will reread you note.Sounds like a good way to do it. Many thanks.
Pat even though I put the bumper on in one piece I did leave the bolts holding the 3 sections together semi-tight so that I could adjust the fit/shape of the bumper to match the contour of the car. Not an easy task. I also covered my new paint with tape to protect it from scratches and fabricated different size shims/spacers to get the optimum fit. BTW I also fitted the rubber seal to the bumper with an adhesive/sealant using tape and clips to hold it in place and left it overnight to cure.
John also fit the reversing light brackets to the bumper before you put it on the car because it’s very difficult to do it afterwards.
Andy
1 Like
Exactly the way I did it. It helps to have two people perform this task, but it can be done with just one if you are super careful.
I made brackets to move the reverse lights about 1.5 inches closer to the body. That causes the lights to not look so prominent. But at the expense of making the bolts that attached them to the bumper harder to get at. But then again how many times to you loosen and tighten those brackets?