Over the years many of us have had to remove the fuel tank pickup and then are faced with how to seal it so it does not leak fumes, gas, or evil spirits. Much has been written this and several have given their opinions.
This is just one of the many opinions but i have just had some success and i am will to share my ‘secret’ but give no guarantee it will work for you but it has for me.
Now on with the process.
Remove the plate and clean it well, I used automotive paint thinner. Clean the tank flange well and make sure the screw threads are clean as well as the tank threads.
Use a new cork gasket that fits nicely.
This photo shows the pickup plate, a new gasket and ‘Prematex High tack Gasket sealant’. The screws and washers are in the bags above the plate and gasket.
This is the Sealant I used, purchased at the NAPA store.
I applied the sealant to the plate and both sides of the new cork gasket and waited a few minutes for them to get tacky. I then put the screws in the plate and then put the gasket over the screws onto the plate.
I also applied the sealant to the tank flange and waited for it to become tacky. I then put the plate in place and tightened the screws. (The screws were already coated with the sealant.) You want to snug the screws down but not distort the gasket.
Now wait a few days, at least I did, then I attached the fuel pickup hose with new banjo bolt gaskets and all was done.
I have just returned from a 864 mile trip and averaged about 14.25 mpg driving the posted speed limit (65mph) and never any gas leak. Some fumes yes as I had had some leaking in the past but I think I have corrected the problem for the time being.
The car ran great and the A/C worked fine.
This is what helped me hope it works for you if you have not found success in sealing the fuel pickup.
Looks like I will be following your procedure once I receive a new gasket. Question…
Does the banjo fitting use metal o-rings? What is best way to ensure a good seal on the banjo which connects to the fuel line? I seem to also have a leak at the banjo. Thanks! Bob
The only copper washers that I’ve ever found on my E-Type that had to be replaced with new to make them seal were the very thin ones on the oil feed banjos at the rear of the cylinder head. That is because the washers are special, and have a raised crush area. For all other applications, annealing the original washer (plus in severe cases sanding it flat on a plate of glass) has returned the washers to a usable non work hardened state. Annealing can be done by heating to cheery red in a gas flame, and then either letting them air cool, or quenching in water (for copper, either works). I prefer to water quench as it causes any scale to flake off. It may sound like a lot of work for a couple of washers, but finding replacements that are actually the correct size (OD, ID and thickness) rather than generic standard sized (usually metric) that a lot of vendors sell as substitutes yields better results in my experience. YMMV.
“The only copper washers that I’ve ever found on my E-Type that had to be replaced with new to make them seal …”
Just for the fun of arguing:
I keep an assortment of copper (and aluminum) crush washers on hand. Oil drain plugs, fuel fittings, Diesel high pressure lines, etc., ad nausium! Seal up the first time they are torqued to specification after removing ALL foreign matter.
Work-hardened copper gets tossed in the scrap metal bin for reclamation.
I have had success with reusing the old copper washers and covering them and the bolt threads with permatex thread sealant before assembly. It hardens into white stuff and is petrol proof. No leaks since!
Dennis 69 OTS
Gentlemen;
I feel embarrassed as I don’t remember the washers being ‘copper’ but I seem to think they were fiber. I had trouble getting some new ones at the time then they had them a few months later.
My wife and I are in a assisted living center now and the car is stored for now. We are restricted from visitors and non essential travel.
If you do use fiber washers they will require retorquing. The reason they went to aluminum washers is the fiber washers are slightly permeable to gasoline. So you may smell fumes.
