I puta ‘y’ in the last syllable but basically the same 
Larry
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Inside my hangar at Skyranch,E coupe with just over 20,000 miles, original paint, interior, upgrades by Eagle GT etc is under the blue cover.
John
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Nice plane! I’d forget the E 
Larry
Now that’s what a hangar should look like!! 
I’m rather attracted to the Deaux Cheveau…
Paul,
Of all the cars I have driven, the 2cv gets the most thumbs up, it is a fun car. Most in the US do not even know what it is. Production of about 5 million certainly does not make it rare!
John
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I have always wanted a 2CV, but decent ones aren’t cheap, nor easy to find.
One of my fave episodes!
Despite that one was in American Graffiti, a very popular film…
Shame, they grow trees here!
Never been in one. The suspension is cool but no clue what they are like.
Nice hangar!
In nearly 50 years of running my E-Type and 30 years with a MK2, I’ve found that the biggest problem today is premium ethanol gumming up the S.U.s and deteriorating the old-school seals. I’ve rebuilt the carburettors in both cars three times over the years.
The new Viton seals in the rebuild kits have cured the disintegration problem, but the low octane rating in today’s premium gas will still have your car knocking when climbing hills in 4th gear–which shouldn’t be a problem with these long stroke engines with suitable gas.
There are two solutions I’ve seen. One is to convert your engine to 8-to-1 ratio in lieu of the factory 9-to-1. I’m not gonna do this.
The other is to run unleaded premium with a gallon of 100+ octane “racing fuel” every other fill up. Racing gas, leaded or unleaded, should available in select gas stations in your area. Just do some research.
Note that when you buy racing fuel, you have to bring a 5 gallon can to the station. By law, they can’t put this in the car. They’ll fill your can from a 50 gallon drum. Take it home and feed your car with a gallon of this good nectar every other fill up.
Also, these stations usually have unleaded premium non-ethanol gas at the pumps, which is highly recommended for our cars that sit for months over the winter. Ethanol breaks down and attracts moisture, so it’s not the best for our old Jags.
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Thanks tom I absolutely agree. Unfortunately I don’t have anything within a couple hundred miles that has race fuel so the av gas is my best option. I don’t think I would get anyone to sign up to be a dealer for vp or another vendor as I wouldn’t use enough volume.
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It must be where I live: in 35+ years of running ethanol fuel in my Jag, recently my Rover, and in any number of older cars–equipped with the proper fuel system materials, naturally–I have had exactly zero issues with it.
In the winter, before storing, I use Sta-Bil, and make sure the tanks are full (SME, too).
Come spring, everything starts fine.
@jhealy748, av gas will work fine.
It may not be soot from a rich fuel mixture on the plugs. It could be lead. A reason our plugs last 100K miles now is that lead deposits do not form on them. In the Tetraethyl Age spark plug cleaning was commonplace.
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https://www.kitplanes.com/maintenance-matters-24/ Interesting article about aviation spark plugs burning 100LL.
Once the seals and diaphragms are replaced with viton, there should be few problems with E10. But I think a lot of the parts that come from across the pond aren’t compatible, because they only recently started to get ethanol fuels. Mixture has to be tuned slightly richer with E10 (as with the otder MTBE), because stoch is 14.1:1, as opposed to 14.7. Which is why switching back to non-ethanol gas seems to give better performance (and black plugs): you run rich unless you retune.
The question of storage is complicated. Ethanol absorbs water and can become acidic as it ages. It’s also volatile and tends to evaporate, leaving very low quality distillates in the tank. I’m not sure about fuel stabilizers, mostly because I don’t understand what they really do. I usually like to store the car with a full tank, the idea being to avoid corrosion due to excess oxygen. But I find that after a winter, that old E10 can be very poor, and won’t even run in my Subaru. What I’m thinking of doing this year is to get one of those quart cans of two cycle fuel they sell in HD. That stuff is non-ethanol with a few drips of oil. I’ll run that through the pump and carbs, and treat the remaining E10 in the tank with magic stabilizer.
I am unaware of the mechanism: all I know is, in the 30-odd years Ive used it in SME, spring carb issues are a thing of the past.
John, is Woody Woods still at the Carefree Airport?
Back in the early 1960s it was touted that the 2CV was the only vehicle to conquer the Matterhorn. Not the last peak, but father up than the cable cars go. I can’t find a reference to that now though. Still…I saw pictures back in the day.
Av gas also has driers and stabilizers in it to make it consistent over altitude, temperature and humidity as well as storage. You can write to Chevron to get a booklet about gasoline that is very informative; I carry it in my car to settle arguments such as octane vs. specific energy. Higher octane slows the burn rate of the fuel at higher temps and pressure to prevent detonation. If you need it you need it. If you don’t you’re not only wasting money, you’re most likely losing performance.
Oops! Didn’t mean to respond to Michael, my comment is for all.
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I tried using premium in my F150 Ecoboost when pulling the trailer back in September. Thought it might help. But I didn’t really notice any difference other than my wallet was lighter 