140 bootlid fit

Could someone tell me what panel gap I should be aiming for between the bootlid and tonneau panel on my 140DHC, please?
The old boot lid skin was particularly tight, and I now have a new skin which is also tight. What’s the target - around 4-5mm?

Thanks,
Roger

they were always tight 4-5mm is way to big
the old days the gaps were the thickness of a two shilling coin
I would say you should be aiming forr 1/8 inch ie 3.3 mm
also you need to take into account paint thickness build ups

Thanks Terry,
That’s pretty tight. When gapping panels for 3 - 3.5mm I would usually gap at around 4mm to allow for paint, and my estimate above was for finished gap so I’m probably not that far out. I’m sure I’ve got a florin kicking around somewhere.

A year ago I was following a 120 up one of those heavily serrated ramps into a car ferry, and couldn’t believe the amount of movement of the bootlid as it drove over the notched surface. It was moving a long way from side to side, going right over the tonneau sides, must have damaged the paintwork. But obviously on a 120 the bootlid hole isn’t braced at the bottom like the 140/150.

Often enquired Roger, my take on it is the gap of the bonnet / wing
set by the rubber buffers, approx 5/32".
Peter B.

When I read that I went out to the garage, grabbed hold of the T-handle of the boot lid and tried to make the lid move. Wouldn’t. There was something wrong with the one you saw.

My target for gaps is 3.5-4.0 mm. Having those rubber buffers in place is critical for achieving an even gap around the bonnet.

I would agree with a well fitted boot lid and the correct rubbers in place and the boot lock turned shut I would have said very little to nil movement.

It was severe scuttle/body shake produced by an extreme surface, not flexing of the bootlid or its hinges. You can’t replicate this standing still. It was a very high-end rally, so could have been an early wooden-frame car - I didn’t really look that closely.

Right. I was commenting on two things, the firmness of an XK120’s boot lid and Peter’s comment about the six rubber bonnet buffers establishing gap.

During the bodywork process - which I’m just about done - I discovered that it is not possible to adjust the gaps and elevations of the bonnet v. the body accurately without having those buffers in place and the bonnet adjusted on its hinges and locked down in front. Those buffers have the effect of putting slight tension into the bonnet and the hinges and thus provide a snug fit. I found with the bootlid being a smaller, more rigidly framed structure the locking mechanism is sufficient to hold it in place during bodywork.