Hi All…so the last “easy” job on stripping down my front end is removeing the steering rack…this was just to clean it up and refurb the front end of the chassis…so the taper pin in the bottom joint to the rack is stuck fast…but luckily i managed to undo the top column flexi joint and wrangle out the rack and column together…luckily id removed the bonnet bridge and front wing support brackets for my refurb or this steering wouldnt have come out…so its now on tne bench and the taper pin needs removeing…after Xmas i think…however a question for you…the top column flexi joint used on the 150 looks to me like trouble waiting to happen should it break up especially with not knowing how good the quality of replacement parts are…is there a “Safety” bracket or something that could be fitted to this joint that anyone knows of…Thanks all…Steve
Unless you modify it to install a UJ Hardy Spicer type joint. Then no.
Point to remember is always be moving while turning the steering wheel there will be less stress on the joint.
Always carry a spare.
Hi Steve,
I don’t think there is anything else readily available. If you look in the archives there are some scare stories about them letting go.
One of my preflight checks is to inspect this joint - always.
I replaced mine a couple of years ago as old one did have cracks. The replacement I bought from one of the usuals was, I believe, for a Mk2. These are a different part number, but supplier says they are correct. I suspect all suppliers are the same. The spacing of the holes was too wide. After struggling, I was able to fit it by using a G cramp to squeeze it down to size whilst getting the bolts to bite.
Regards,
Clive.
Thanks for the replies…I thought i had see something like flexi metal brackets as safety straps for this type of rubber coupling in case of a failure…The coupling from Coventry auto on their site mentions to use a compression strap and not to remove it till the coupling is fitted…have a great Xmas…Steve
I looked it up, intrigued - I had assumed 150 would be the same as 140 - but no, you have a Rotoflex coupling. I don’t know what size this might be, but this design is used in some small Triumph rear drive shafts and the Lotus Elan. I can’t imagine they’re the same size, but the rule with the drive shaft versions is to buy the most expensive you can find on the grounds that they’re probably the best. Not foolproof, but… The driveshaft applications in repro are nothing like as good as the originals, unfortunately. Clearly using decent materials for this sort of application is no longer acceptable. The drive shaft type should always be assembled with the compression strap installed as you’ll never compress them to line up with the mounts once you remove it - I assume this is the same.
For peace of mind, would it be that difficult to convert to the 140 setup instead? Two metal universal joints? This would surely give a more positive feel to the wheel, as well.
Roger
Hi Roger…would need some engineering above my pay grade…upper end of column cutting of and altering unless its possible to fit a 140 column?..the coupling is also used on Mk1 mk2 jags was supposed to be an upgrade to smooth the shocke comming up through the column…maybee someone here has done a conversion?..after Xmas job now…have a good one…Steve
Hi Steve,
Maybe the compression strap is because the holes are too far apart!
I don’t see how straps could ensure the two shafts stay engaged to each other if the rubber failed.
I have a 67 Mustang that has a similar idea known as a rag joint. Should that fail the opposing bolts would interfere to retain a degree of steering.
Regards,
Clive.
Hi Clive…yes opposing bolts idea…with the 150 coupling if it fails the column is completely seperated…my thinking was something like brackets each side that allow the movement in the coupling but on failure would would couple together…im sure iv seen something like this on this type of joint…cheers…Steve ps something like this?1976-2002 All Makes All Models Parts | 7826542 | 1977-2004 GM -
The pegs from one side are lined up with slots in the other side: 1969 Mustang Ididit Column Rag Joint Installation Kit.
Just can’t see how anything could be similarly fabed up for the XK as the centers of the bolts would hit the opposing shaft.
Clive.
Just found this redesigned " upgraded" coupling from SC parts with inbuilt safety…anyone used it…cant see any of the other suppliers offering similar…will post after Xmas in the Mk 2 section of forum Flexible coupling - Steering - Steering - Jaguar Mark II - Jaguar Mark II and Daimler V8 (1959-1969) - Jaguar - British Cars - SC Parts Group Ltd
Looks like good solution. Worth it for piece of mind!
Fitting the replacement I had was an absolute pig of a job. I had to compress the joint and bend it to line up holes. Hopefully this one fits easier.
Clive.
Hi Steve,
I have no idea how the dimensions compare between 140 and 150 - someone like Mike Read might well have the 140 centre column section, which looks like a small propshaft without a sliding joint, but I don’t know what you would need for the top. Probably best to stick with the correct design. The one with the failsafe mechanism should be fine, but it means paying SC’s prices…
Yes, my '68 Mustang has a rag joint steering connector, never had a problem with it in over 50,000 miles now. It’s a simpler design than the Rotoflex and doesn’t rely quite so much on bonding metal to rubber, but it does have a (sort of) failsafe built in.
Hi All…still havent made a decision on the flexi joint but have posted on the “Saloon” section to see if there are any other options…anyway moveing on the rack iv managed to drill out the taper pin from column and rack and found slight play in the rack…so will need to strip and re bush…tie rod ends had large lock washers that had been crudly hammered over…tie rod ball joints felt rather “notchy”…so removed both large nuts and the tie rods…the balls of the tie rods located into cups behind which are shims and spring. …so think i need new tie rods…Question…service manual dosnt show a cup behind the tie rod ball…just a ball socket that screws into the rack tube…and usual suppliers show the same…they sell the tie rod and large nut but not the ball socket that fits into the screw in fitting in the rack end…your ideas appreciated…thanks…Steve…ps just re opened an old thread with socket info on it
On the off chance that information may be useful, this is what the XJ6 and XJ12 have for steering, a normal U-joint and one which extends/contracts to allow the fore-aft movement.
Just remembered, my Jensen Interceptor Series 3 had a flexi joint like the 150s, but even more flimsy looking. I did several thousand behind that big old 2 ton 440, including a couple of cracks at the Stelvio and most of Europe, and it never gave me any concerns. More of a challenge than an XK150, I’d think, so I’m sure the standard offering would be fine.
I’ve never seen anything like that double joint on the XJ6 column before* - that’s really weird.
*Obviously, I’ve never had an XJ6. Or any other Jag, come to that.
Hi Steve,
See this thread: XK145/150 steering rack info - #21 by clivejer.
Seems manual omits the cups, but they do exist! Quite a few years ago I got replacements from Guy Broad.
Regards,
Clive.
Hi Clive…yes found that thread and re opened it…someone mentioned that xke parts could possibly fit…recently sold my E type so cant measure parts against one another…but i need one of the very large nuts that hold the tie rod ball to the rack…sngb sell the E type nut but not the 150 nut…wonder if they are the same…thanks…Steve