Three day weekend! Gonna finish the 2nd carb rebuild. I assume this is supposed to have FOUR holes! Anybody ever try to drill a hole this small? I can’t get a pin thru it.
Well, yea, as soon as you’d replaced that buggered nut, they did…
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Steve,
I vaguely recall that mine looked the same when I did my carbs 8 years or so ago. I wouldn’t assume that the smallest “hole” is drilled at all. I wouldn’t be surprised if the different versions of the carbs had different specs for the holes. I didn’t do anything about the 0.0" diameter hole, and don’t think I’ve suffered any bad consequences…
-David
I agree with much of what has been said. When I first got my 68 I was not too impressed with the throttle response but after I removed the secondary plates in the ZS set up I got a big grin on my first drive. Even better when I put in adjustable needles and could lean it out a little. I have not driven an E with SU’s but I sure would like to compare. I did drive another 68 briefly a few years ago that had triple Webers and I was not sufficiently impressed that it was much better than my car’s configuration to make any switch given the trouble and price. Friend of mine has a 66 under restoration so maybe one day I can try out SU’s
David
68 E-type FHC
Thoughts for the day: I like the looks of the original oil filter and plan on keeping it. Mine is LOOONG and I have ordered the new filter from XKS.com. My engine is 7R-3563-9. On pg E29 of their catalog it shows that the long filter can was only used to engine 7R-2297 then they switched to a shorter one. Can anybody confirm?
Does anybody know if the series 1 cam covers are a direct swap for my series 2. Probably won’t switch them now, but some day might “bling up” my engine bay and I want to know if that is an option?
Somebody stop me… I haven’t even got the engine running on this thing yet…
-Steve (the dreamer)
D_Barnes, was it as simple as removing the throttle plate?
Mine has 7R-2964 and the filter housing was (I think) the usual long one. I didn’t keep it though, one of the first things I did was replace it with the spin-on from CoolCat:
Spin-on cartridge is painted to look similar to the appearance of the original housing.
Steve,
It can be even simpler than that if you want to give it a try…
-David
Steve,
Are you sure about that? I looked in my (admittedly old) XKs catalogue and it does show two different oil filter systems for before and after the engine number you cite, but if you look at the oil filters themselves, the part number is the same in both cases. The illustrations suggest that the later filter is shorter, but I think this is “artistic license” rather than reality. There are other differences between the filter systems, most obviously the housing uses a different gasket to the engine block, and the pressure relief valve is very different.
-David
Regarding your image of the Strombergs, my writing on the dome is rotated 90 degrees from yours? Is one of ours wrongly installed? I just rebuilt my first two and want to make sure I didn’t mess it up! I know I hit both notches on the body/diaghragm/dome.
I believe mine are correct and I believe it matters.
Hi Steve, I wish to advise against any attempts with drill or pin to clean this part. I suggest that you chemically clean the plate, say with vinegar or any store bougdht cleaner for water deposits.( you will need to dismantle for this ). Finally clean with a brass brush an you are done!! I hope you took care to note how the gaskets were fitted, and that you have new ones for the rebuild!Good Luck.
I think I saw the new gaskets in a prior post.
Be aware these can be assembled backwards - my PO managed that trick and when I got the car it would only start with no choke and once warmed up needed full choke to settle it down. Took some thinking to figure that out.
The first Series 2 cars were still fitted with the short stud 4.2 engine. Does this engine number perhaps reflect the changeover to the long stud engine?
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I’m glad I caught that in your image. What would we do without the Internet. I have modified mine to the correct position and yes I can see how it would made a huge difference.
I studied the engineering behind it for what seemed like an hour and I believe I put them in correct based on the old gaskets shape but as you can see by me putting the carburetor domes on 90° rotated I’m heavily relying on images from these postings and the Internet for help. I won some “Bible to jags” on EBay. It’s a 450 page illustrated guide and I’m waiting for its arrival. Hopefully will have many of the answers that I seek! In the meantime, keep up the good posts/comments boys
Steve yes all I removed on my car was the secondary plates themselves. I left everything else in place so if I did not like it I could easily put things back as original. The plates have been “installed” in a ziplock bag in my glove box for the last 17 years now. I think they work much better there.
David
68 E-type FHC
I have a question about the gasket for the oil filter assy to engine block. XKS has one listed on pg. E29 that says it’s for a series 2, but it doesn’t look a thing like mine. Anybody have any experience with this gasket? Does anybody have experience using a high quality gasket material sheet goods to make your own gaskets as I’m sure this will happen again during this rebuild.
Followup, does anybody RECOGNIZE that brass shoulder washer, item #3, if it doesn’t belong on my carb?
