Here are two pictures of the capacitor mounted on the coil hold down bolt
If you want to see the original high-res photos I can email them to you
Thank you, that is perfect. the capacitor is exactly what I am missing off of there. but defiantly not my current no start condition. How are the ignition amplifier on these? Lets talk talk theory of operation power and ground should be applied to the coil via the ignition amplifier correct? The coil acts as a transformer, the amplifier should then switch of the power to the coil calpsing the field witch in turn sends that energy through the secondary winding correct? My theory is that the amplifier has failed and is not cutting off that power side. Here is the next question though the amplifier get its signal from the ecm to fire. the ecm gets its signal from the cps of where the crank is on its rotation. we have determined that the cps is outputting a signal. we assuming at this point that the signal is reaching the ecm. with that assumption I believe there to be 3 possible causes. 1. the amplifier, 2. the ecm or 3. wiring. There is one other thing that I still have not been able to address and am not sure the relevance of the fact that I have no injector pulse. Crank it over with a noid light on it and have no flash of the noid. I’m trying to see if I am missing something here.
Again thank you very much for the help
if any coil has 12 volts on one side and momentary ground on the other low voltage post… COIL should spark… if not… 1st check the integrity of the PLUS 12v… maybe for some odd reason it cant provide the amps…
take 12 volt tail light bulb put it to the COILS PLUS POWER terminal and see if that 12 volt source you think is there can light a bub, YES?? then grounding other side of coil has to spark or that coild is bad too…
NO it wont light a tail light bulb? then whatever source the 12v is coming from (say ignition amp) may be faulty AND OR you have high resistance in the wiring and connectors making the system too weak to work…
If you have 12 V at coil and bulb wont shine bright… check wireing and particular check the connectors for any corrosion and spray with electrical contact cleaner or DEOXIT or WD40, you may want to do this on things like the CPS connector and the ENGINE connectors in the cabin
but first test that 12 volts to the coil…
Dont test the 12V at coil with LED tester, only draws say 20 milliamps way too low,
You want to know if a few amps can be provided to the COIL
See if there are any nearby ground connections to clean too as bad ground can cause all kinds of computer dysfunction…On Old New cars with electrical problems first thing to check is BATTER then electrical grounds, then electrical connectors… but for you first check if a tail light bulb can momentarily be light up with that 12 volts at coil.
hope it helps
Brad
89 XJ6
Hello,
Going to ground with a lead lamp bulb from the 12v source to the coil I can light the bulb. With that being said it looks like the ground source for the coil comes from the amplifier. so i should be able to in stall the bulb to complete the cirut and it should flash the bulb during cranking correct?
DREAM TOSH LARSEN June 1 Hello,Going to ground with a lead lamp bulb from the 12v source to the coil I can light the bulb. With that being said it looks like the ground source for the coil comes from the amplifier. so i should be able to in stall the bulb to complete the circuit and it should flash the bulb during cranking correct?
Visit Topic or reply to this email to respond.
Ive never tried that-bypassing the coil— but, Yes it should the coils primary resistance is in the LOW say under 10 ohms the bulb would be similar and or higher being less load… try it though a LED test light would respond faster than a bulb but at cranking speeds I think you will see the bulb flash if the circuitry upstream form coil is in good nick and the bulb will tell you fast if the coil was getting any usable voltage and amperage…
I reread the POST you never said if the car ever ran correctly and when?
You never said when the NO START condition started? and was it in your care and shat driving conditions were prior to it failing??
Important background questions in diagnosing a mystery car
… if in recent past the car ran well… then a NOSTART is probably due to one part being bad, if you just got the car— no knowledge of its history---- a NO START could be a multitude of problems to trace, which situation is yours?
The car was not in my care when it stopped ruining. The story that I was given was that it was running and driving and then parked nearly 2 years ago.
The battery is dead now I will charge it tonight and check the ground on the circuit. I’m not sure if you saw also that I do not have injector pulse on my noid light. (light stays light while cranking)
Also was this cars history of outdoor storage or garaged?? Any use in winter?? Car located near seashore
And did you pull the connectors on engine management computer and see do they look nice and clean??..
electrical issues can be tough to diagnose without all the history-- running history and corrosion history… checking some connectors etc…
brad
kill the battery that’l end the search…
yes charge it and leave charger on while testing
If the ECM brain is not getting the right signals etc… it probably wont fire the injectors… thats the ECM behind glove box… if it doesnt like the signals its getting no noid lights will light… yes maybe the ECM is bad too
Again though you have given the Jaglovers detectives no history… very hard to diagnose without history and or maybe impossible with just resorting to buy replacement parts for everything and thats not good.
1__did car ever run great?
2__When was last time it ran great?
3__When did it DIE?
4__What was the car and driver experincing before the discovery of NO START?
important questions
DREAM TOSH LARSEN
June 1 The battery is dead now I will charge it tonight and check the ground on the circuit. I’m not sure if you saw also that I do not have injector pulse on my noid light. (light stays light while cranking)
tosh
rereading the post you said you disconnect the coil… had good 12 volts on 1 termianl and you manually grounded the other and you got no spark… did you test the replacement coil that way too and get no spark as that would be bizarre…
you have to get that coil to spark or something is simply wrong… wrong ground bad coil… something…
also the history questions very important… if this is something (the no start) you dont know the history, it is probably a host of problems and replacement parts are the way to go,
b
- From what i was told it ran great up until it was parked.
- 2 or more years ago
Hit enter to soon,
3. Died while sitting
4. From what I was told no simptons before the no start.
Housed out doors
By the sea side
No use for 2 years
I have not pulled the connectors on the ecu yet
2 years is a long time and coastal makes it worse
hope the injectors not frozen… maybe jump 12 volts with connector off (tough to get the retainers off) and listen for clicking
June 2 From what i was told it ran great up until it was parked. 2 or more years ago
What I suspected…
The statement from seller could be less than sterling
As I stated not knowing history and without any diagnostics of say amplifier and ECM behind glove box… start buying up spare parts and start swapping…
ALSO no history… yeah a mouse could have nibbled the wiring anywhere very bad… look for any mouse remains anywhere…corrosion could be anywhere…
yeah start pulling it apart ECU… the amplifier all connectors examine all carefully for any signs of corrosion… bad bad bad…
If connections look good that’s a plus but all the associated parts could be bad ECU amplifier
you said you already bot a new CPS and coil check coil with voltmeter and or 12 volts and see it spark CPS check for AC on lowest scale of multimeter (best to have a bar graph display) when cranking should seem some voltage out
not test for ECU or amp just swap em
a non running coastal car is a buying no no…
best to use as a parts car,
good luck
b
I suspected as such
Salt plays havoc on electrical systems that are less than mil spec
yeah find all the ground points clean em silicone grease them too
yeah get some electrical cleaner deoxit — electrical contact cleaner or in a pinch lousy wd40 which is a water displacement spray not a lubricant,
once you get it running with your replacement parts swap back your old ECU and see if it is any good same for amp…