Temperature gauge acting like the gauge sender wire is grounding out. Any known weak spots where they are known to short out, along the loom?
The gauge was flipped over max, I removed the gauge cluster and flipped the needle back to zero, replaced the sender with a black top after market unit, even added a ground point wire to a correct ground lug on back of the gauge, but still back at square one. I have removed the tape and the conduit from the loom along the firewall and the orange with pink stripe wire looks good, so far. Any known weak spots?
Can you share the part number you used for the replacement? I’m asking because there is a temp sensor and a temp sender. I want to make sure you replaced the right part?
There is no common problem with what you are experiencing. I know Palm’s Book talks about adding a ground at the dashboard, but I’m pretty sure the facelifts were not affected by such issues.
My 93’s temp gauge is sporadic as well. Sometimes it reads right, next time it goes full tilt within ¼mile of driving. I added a pin to my gauge so that it wouldn’t go past the point where it wouldn’t go back to home after acting up
Veekay, the part number is DAC2583. I even added a resistor to the line (orange wire with pink rings). Now , I have read that a 1/4 watt 28 ohm resistor is what worked well for at least one person, but I couldn’t find any 28 ohms. I used a 1/2 watt 32 ohm resistor. With the resistor installed, and the DAC2583 sensor, I started the car and watched the gauge. After about a minute of nothing, the first movement of the needle jumped to the center and within seconds made its way to to just above normal almost to the red, in three 18th” jumps. I also tried the original DAC11079 sensor, and the results were similar.
I believe that this is a common problem, at least among the 1995 models. I’ve ordered the factory service manual, hoping that will shed some light on the issue. I’m now leaning towards the gauge as the culprit. Exploring the idea of using an aftermarket gauge, or maybe a Ford unit. There are a few of similar size and needle range that would look quite natural in place of the original gauge.
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There’s also how the ECU ties into the temp
gauge. 
Does it have one harness connector, or two? One just tells the dashboard what the temp is, the other one is the more important one, as it tells the ECU what the temp is.
If you’re adding resistors, I’m assuming you are spending time on the SENDER, which will not help at all.
It is the single spade sender. I was under the impression that the dual wire sender was for the electric fans.
Veekay,
I do have a new dual connector sensor, a Facet 7.3248. But I haven’t bothered to installed that one.