1999 XJR all gears = forward

My stable includes a 1999 XJR (Mercedes W5A580 transmission, not GM).

When started in P, it bucks - the parking pawl is set, but the transmission appears to be IN GEAR. Starting in N is alleviated, but it’s still in forward gear.

Presently, I have the back end up on jacks. I disable traction control (and must do so EACH time I start). In addition to the above observations, the transmission remains in forward even for the R selection.

Finally got the console surround out to access the Dual Linear Switch, removed that, opened it up and found nothing untoward - tracks are clean (lubed, but clean), and free of defects. Reinstalled it, then slapped together simple LED test circuit and drove pins into the plug for the switch (two pins for power, four for the bitstates being presented to the TCM), and verified that the pins are being driven to the correct states in all the gear positions. I located some pages from a 1998 “student guide” online that showed what the pin states were supposed to be for each gear.

I was really hoping for a failure in the output from the linear switch, because I could more readily backtrace and replace components on that (this linear switch is basically a handful of SMD capacitors, a fair quantity of resistors, and 10 or so transistors - it’s not like the later linear switch that appears to incorporate a microcontroller).

I had purchased a JDHT workshop CD for the XJR when I acquired it almost four years ago, but was disappointed to find that the manual was almost exclusively for engine overhauling - no trim. body, or electrics. Is there a suitable source of a manual that covers electrics?

I have an ODBII code reader (Actron CP9695), but I see only about 20 dynamic readings for this auto, no codes were being thrown (outside of a generic P1000 - no DTC definition). After doing some testing today (with the back end off the ground), I ended up getting a P0730 (gear ratio incorrect) and C1175 (LH rear wheel speed sensor fail). I question if these were thrown due to the fact that the vehicle is not mobile during the testing, I have not erased them and run more tests to see if they trigger again or not.

If I rev the engine up to a couple of thousand RPM, the speedo claims a steady speed and there’s no drop in engine RPM as I shift through the gears (avoiding Park due to the pawl, and Reverse because even if it’s spinning forward now, I’m not interested in something resolving itself). Feels rather like a valve stuck in a position, but there’s no error about that (not even a transmission failure message on the dash).

I’m seriously considering putting together something to just read the CAN bus and dump raw data, but I need to order some components for that, and would like to have better documentation first.

Other notes:

Transmission shows no signs of fluid leaks. The dipstick tube has that blasted sealed cap at the top and no dipstick, so I figure if I want a peek, I’ll have to open up somewhere else. Since the problem is forward drive in all gears rather than sluggish pickup, I’m not prone to believe the problem is low fluid level.

In searches, I see mention of dealer reflashing of the TCM. Do these normally have issues? Since the car is not drivable in its current state, it’s not like I can just cruise it on over to the nearest dealer (some 60 miles away).

Thanks!

The dipstick is a TOOL, NOT an AUTO PART.
Break the seal and check the level. Buy the tool from eBay or someplace like that.
The tool is the same for ALL 722.6 gearboxes.

Some info for you.

W5A-580.pdf (72.4 KB)
W5A-580_TRANS_OBDII.pdf (179.5 KB)

W5A580 Dual Linear Sw.pdf (308.3 KB)

bob

Thanks for the doc links (though I had rummaged similar docs for two of them in my earlier searches). What would be handy is a fault diagnostics chart – is there one?

If your position that the transmission running in forward gear only across the range problems is in fact a fluid level issue?

I’ve ordered up a 1220mm dipstick, er fluid level checking TOOL, off of eBay. Bypassed multiple cheaper listings claiming to ship from Hong Kong and such (only because they’d take much longer), and settled on one claiming to ship from the US - but when I processed payment, noted that PayPal had Chinese characters in the payee ID. We’ll see if it shows up promptly or not.

I don’t know if it is a fluid issue but since you have NOT checked it…It would be a recommended first step.

When the ZF 4HP24 was installed in the XJ40 sedans, a low fluid situation would occasionally cause the torque converter to lock up at idle/standing at full stop, trying to drag the car forward and stall the engine when the brakes were applied. All it required was a correct fluid level and the torque converter behaved normally.

Low fluid can cause strange things???

bob

Sean, check this out as well. Also make sure you car IS LEVEL when you check the fluid, preferably get it on a hoist as it is easy to overfill if it’s not.

I’m awaiting delivery of the dipstick tool, will check. Yes, know that level is critically important. Will report in when I get to that point.

Sean; my experience several yrs ago with an Allison acting up on test went like this;
Allison reflashed the TCM - no change.
Allison changed the control valve assy in the trany sump still no change.
Problem found to be incorrect voltage supply to the TCM from the test bed. Fixed that then no more problems.

If the trany appears to be in gear with the parking lock set you may have a dragging clutch either from a control valve problem or warped plates. With either of these you should see the same effect in N with the brakes off and revving the engine.

Griff

Well I wouldn’t be looking at an electric issue.

Search 722.6 on the internet. Lots of info out there