Drove to a cars and coffee this morning and still impressed how much smoother and quieter the car is.
What I also noticed is that the shifter no longer rocks back and forth at all. When I used to punch it the shifter would move back and when letting up move forward, no more. A while back I did change to the heavy-duty engine mounts with the steel caps, but the stick would rock. The new rear mounts on the 5 speed I think are similar to the earlier cars, with what I call rubber spools. My series II had the coil spring set-up that allowed more up and down movement that is now replaced by “spools”. My guess that the combination of these mounts limits the back and forth movement? There is clearance all around so nothing is limiting movement.
Glenn
It sounds like the detentes were worn, week ball bearing springs? Or yes could be the rear spring. Mine move just a smidge but it’s the whole box not just the lever.
You put the broadsport in right? Did you end up having to cut a divot in the cross member? Any other struggles beside the interference you mentioned a few weeks back?
I’ll add that I also have the Broadsport and noticed the shifter rocking at first especially in third and fifth. All new engine/transmission mounts at the install. After about 3000 miles I notice this much less. If anyone can guess why I’d be interested to hear. I did have an issue where the stick would vibrate at certain rpms - this required adding some spring clips to the shifter mechanism to cure. Great transmission overall.
No cutting of the cross member needed for my ‘62 OTS.
As long as I can remember the shifter/transmission has had movement back and forth. I had attributed this to the spring loaded mount. The new mount does not allow for as much movement.
Installing the BroadSport I was determined not to cut/weld the crossmember. In retrospect maybe I should have. I avoided the surgery by moving the engine about 3/16" forward, this created other problems requiring carb linkage being shimmed out 3/16" and grinding off a bit on water pump shaft to be able to install pulleys (A/C equipped). I also purchased the shorter driveshaft from Broad.
Glenn
I believe the transmission tunnel cover is different on the series II compared to earlier cars.
I had to make a divot in cover for reverse switch clearance. I also had to grind a bit on shifter boot opening to allow for shifter throw clearance on the right side. Also had to grind a bit on linkage to clear top cover interference. No movement, vibrations or noise.
Glenn
It’s odd that some do and some don’t require cutting. I wonder if over time it could contact the body as the rubber mounts compress. Did it lift straight up into position or did the rear have to be tipped up and slipped into position?
Is it a trivial enough interference that a small whacked divot would suffice instead of slicing?
This is essential isn’t it, unless you modify your own?
I first took a sledge to the cross-member and no change. I guess if I heated it up and got it red hot it may have worked. I could have had the driveshaft shortened ( spec included) . Opted for a new one to replace a 50 year old part.
Glenn
It lifted in pretty easily. The problem I had was that the original transmission cover didn’t fit and the center console was initially lifted up by about an inch. Lots of fiddling to get it right.
Well that’s not good at all. Did yours have the low profile fiberglass cover? The 64’s have metal but I think it’s still pretty low profile. Was there any room at all left for foam?
Yes the cover is fiberglass. We had to shave it and the foam down a bit to get it all to fit. Not exactly a ‘drop in’ fit but still well worth it for me.