For the past two weeks I have been adding (daily) 1/2 oz of engine oil into the spark plug holes to see if the oil will drain down past the rings. 3 are draining slowly, 3 do not drain. I have not yet tried to turn the 1 5/16" crank nut. I’m thinking of removing the oil in the cylinders and replacing it with Marvel Mystery Oil. I have read it works to un-seize an engine . Does this sound like the next logical step or, is the something else I should do? Thanks
I would try a rust-buster type of product…PB Blaster, etc…and/or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF…lots of success reported with that home-made concoction. You want something real thin to get down around the (assumed) rusted-to-the-bore rings.
I have tried diesel, and the atf mix in the past. unfortunately nothing worked. You have nothing to lose so try it all.
In the end it was a BFH for me.
Marvel is about 75% naptha mineral oil and 24% stoddard solvent aka white spirit.
It was initially marketed as a carburetter cleaner.
Kroil is another good penetrating oil.
The crankshaft bolt is 3/4-16 UNF thread so it is good for at least 138 foot pounds.
Go ahead and try to turn the crankshaft bolt, in the tightening direction, and stop at 120 foot pounds.
Be patient, it may take months for the oil to work through the rings.
I removed most of the oil from 6 cylinders and added 1.5 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil to each, measured the levels and let it sit for a few days. MMO level dropped a little in 5 cylinders, one was empty. I turned the crank nut 1 revolution, added 1/2 oz MMO to each cylinder, turned crank 3 more revolutions. It did not take excessive pressure to rotate the crank but, I have not done this before - not sure how easy crank should rotate (plugs removed.) Should the oil in the 5 cylinders drain out before I attempt to start the engine? Thanks
A clean unrusty engine with plugs out ought to turn with maybe 15-20 foot pounds of torque. A rusty one maybe 30-40 ft lbs.
Crank it on the starter with the plugs out for a minute or two. That ought to get most of the MMO out.
Then drain the sump and put in new oil.
Trying to start it is another ball game. Better check over the ignition and fuel system first.
When you get into things like cleaning the fuel pump and gas tank you will want the saloons forum, as this one is just for engines.
What is the history of this car? Recent purchase? Inheritance from a relative? Found abandoned in a barn?
If it rotates it isnt seized, its when the rings rust to the bores you really have trouble.
except to say there is a high chance at least one ring is gummed into the piston lands!
I personally would not start it without at least a compression test first.
in addition, depends how long its been sitting, but sludge in oil pan, lack of start up lube, and possible deterioration of internals due to bad coolant need to be considered
If you can’t turn it by hand with the plugs out,I think it’s very unlikely you’ll end up with and efficiently working engine even if you do eventually get it to revolve. As someone else said, if you do get it to turn freely,do a compression check before you attempt to fire it up. In my experience, this type of problem almost always ends in head off pistons out etc etc
Thanks for the comments, the oil level is dropping - now about 1/8" (empty in two cylinders.)
Do I need the starter connected for the compression test? I assume I do. If so, I have to sort out the wiring before I attach the 12v battery. Previous owner disconnected almost everything electrical and many dash instruments.
Nigelplug - are you saying I should be able to turn the crank without a tool?
Rob_Reilly -
The history of the Mk 1:
I bought it as a basket case in 2002. Southern California car, body is very good. It came with a identical parts car (without engine/trans/radiator.) The previous owner lost interest in his attempt at restoration. I was told it needed a few minor things to get it on the road. “A weekend of work” said the Jag mechanic who was working on it. Engine, gearbox, carbs, suspension, heater box, uninstalled wood - all represented as new or refurbished.
“Install the distributor, wires, generator, tach, radiator, fan, hoses, have the brakes worked on and you’ll be on the road” I was told as it was loaded onto the car carrier and towed from the shop.
I expected more than a weekend (or week) of work as many parts were missing from the engine. And, I had to sort through old receipts and photograph/label many boxes of parts, bolts, nuts, etc.
My engine did not have oil or coolant in it – since 2002 or before. There was no gas in the tank, carbs or fuel line.
I saw a video of a “barn find” Jag where they got the engine running with a container of fuel and a remote battery and coil, radiator was removed and garden hoses supplied coolant to the engine. I might try that next if the dash electrical can’t be re-assembled using the parts car as my map.
You probably can’t turn it just with your hands on the crankshaft damper. Get a 1-5/16" socket on the crankshaft bolt and you should be able to turn it with a 12" or 18" bar handle.
You can even put it in 4th gear and tow it a few yards with a tractor.
You do need the starter to do a compression test.
You don’t need the rest of the electrical system just yet, just the starter solenoid.
Connect up a good battery, positive to ground.
The solenoid has a push button on the back end, you can just push it to see if the starter will crank it over.
Or you can jumper between the small terminal on the solenoid and the large terminal with the cable coming from the battery.
Better try that before you try putting any gas in it.
Hi Bruce
What I meant was if you can’t turn it with a socket/ spanner on the crank damper bolt.
It’s possible the starter motor might be sufficient to free it off but from what you’said previously I’d be surprised.
You need to be positive that you have no sticking valves or bucket tappets. If you did get it to turn manually first ,at least then you would be able to “feel” it if a piston did touch a valve before doing any damage!
with
Difficult to comment here but…what is your plan? its fine to spend a lot of time in getting the engine to fire up but what then? if you intend to restore the car its not (or should be ) the engine condition that will determine if the car is worth restoring. body and interior brakes etc are major cost contributors to a restoration project. To get the engine to fire is one thing but to get it to a running state requires the cooling system and all of the ancillary (exhaust etc) inlace and working properly. I suggest you reconsider the engine work and get the wiring and other systems properly in place and working and slowly progress to the engine. Worst case with the engine is a strip and rebuild. Most of that you can mange, welding etc can be a different game so please assess the whole car before you get in to deep.
Just my opinion