I want to remove the engine on a XKE coupe by removing it from the bottom. I want to support the rear of the car by the rear axles. Will remove about 10 gallons of gas from the tank. Do I need to to hold the front of the car down when the engine and transmission is unbolted from the car? I don’t want the front end of the car to fly up in the air when lifting it to roll out the engine.
John Watertor
More information would be helpful.
Is the car on a lift? If so you should stake steps to ensure what you are describing won’t happen.
If the car is sitting on the floor with the the rear tires on the floor and you are simply lifting or jacking up the front end to allow the ending to be rolled out from under the car there will still be enough weight in front of the rear wheels to keep the front end down.
The car will be on the floor. I have a movable engine hoist to lower the engine on to a rolling cart and to lift the front of the car up to clear the engine.
John Watertor
As you describe it you should have no problem with the front end going up on it’s own. Even with the bonnet off, radiator out and engine dropped free of the car there is more weight forward of the rear wheels than aft of them.
Don’t support it by the axles. Just leave the rear end on wheels. You can do it with the rear wheels on the ground but last time mine was out it proved very beneficial to jack the rear and put the rear wheels on ramps. That gave plenty of room for exhaust removal and also meant that the chassis didn’t have to be hauled up to a crazy angle to allow the engine to be trundled out.
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Like this:
I lowered the engine on a flat piece of nylon with a couple of holes and chain thru it . Sprayed some WD-40 on the back side and was able to drag it around the floor with little effort.
Good luck.
This is exactly how I did mine. I picked up the car front (sans motor) with a come-along. The rear wheels were on cribs to add a little overall height to the project.
I also used cribbing to raise the rear:
Used the engine hoist to lift the front and position the jack stands rearward:
Red tape marked the prior jack stand position.
Then we lifted & rolled 'er in:
The moved the jackstands to the forward position:
Finally hoisted the engine up to install the motor mounts, etc.
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Do not forget to block the rear wheels by handbrake and blocks of wood. When you raise the front with an engine hoist the car wants to roll back (depending on the angle). Another good reason the raise the rear.
Succes
Hedde
George, is there any reason why you didn’t use the 4 post lift in the garage? It would appear that would make it easier to get under the car and remove the exhaust system and reaction plate.
Andy 69 FHC
I did use the lift to remove the exhaust system… then alarmed the neighbors as I moved to another stall. With the car raised on cribbing and jack stands the reaction plate was pretty easy to deal with and that also allowed me to let the suspension droop to make the task easier.
But mostly the engine was going to Dick Maury for a rebuild and I didn’t want the lift tied up for the 4 months I knew that would take.
Thanks for all the information. I am more comfortable now when removing the engine and transmission to replace the clutch.
John Watertor
I like the cribbing supports you made for supporting the rear of the Jag to remove the engine. What is the outside dimensions of the supports, length, width and height?
John Watertor
I made them 13½ x 11½ and the height of eight 2x4s - about 12".
But you can make them as big as as high as you need as this video demonstrates:
