69 FHC Series 2 engine rebuild

Can anyone point me in the right direction where can I buy the parts I will need to rebuild the above engine. It has done 50002 miles from new. I ran the engine approximately 20 years ago, the oil pressure came up and no knocking or rattling was evident at that time… I’m rebuilding the bottom of the car and have most of the panels needed for that as we speak, . But I’m trying to get ahead of the game with the engine and I’d like to have some of the “must need” parts sourced…
I live in the US and have parts shipped on a regular basis for a couple of old bikes I have, and todays exchange rate and no VAT makes it worth while.
Appreciate the help.

My fave go-to source is SNG Barratt.


Thanks for the quick reply. I’ll get on their site and check and see what they have.

The below links are to the suppliers most commonly used. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Google “Jaguar E-type parts” and you’ll get page after page of hits.

“We” are very fortunate to have several vendors for our cars…I typically use all of the three mentioned above. All have great service and pricing.

Athough parts are very important, I suspect you understand there are certain actions that are required, both machining and cleaning. For instance, you will want to clean out the oil passage in the crankshaft. Trivial or tough, depending on how the access plugs come out. You can use the Search function here on J-L and find lots of been there/done that discussion about XK engine rebuilds.

To get you jump started here is a link to article 1 of 4 that is on my website, tracing the rebuild process by marque expert Dick Maury.

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This video series is very good procedurally. It helped me a lot although they cut a few corners I wouldn’t have. Still worth a watch though for overview.

Rick OBrien
65 FHC in FL

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Thanks to all for the information…at my age I don’t have time to do it twice!! great information regarding the rebuild…

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I just rebuilt my 4.2 engine over the past month, and started it up for the (second) time last night. While I am not a super loyal fan of a single supplier over the others, I do have a strong preference for “Comedic” brand gaskets for every place on the engine that they make them for. They are especially good for the front timing chain cover, cam covers and breather cover. I have a pair for the sump too. As you are asking for parts/pieces that a non-professional would want on-hand, I feel a bit qualified to mention some that you would likely not know about at the present time; such as: Multiple ‘o-rings’ for: distributor shaft, oil pressure relief valve body inside the bypass valve, oil pump inlet and outlet pipes, and the o-ring for inside the front crankshaft spacer. Be sure you get the rubber strip seal for the rear of the sump, as some suppliers might send just the seals for the sides of the sump, without the rear seal. You will also need the rubber ‘half-moon’ seals for the top rear of the heads. You will need two (2) of the breather cover gaskets.

i don’t think he needs them for his engine, and it’s „cometic“. And for the rear of the engine both rubber and cork strip work, cork is original and prettier but rubber supposedly seals better. Dimensions didn’t change for the seal type as far as I can remember.
My kits so far included both types.
I would leave the bypass alone.
I recommend two sets of rope seal just so there is less pressure to get it right first time. No need for the sizing tool, using the crankshaft works perfectly. The sludge traps in the crankshaft need a big impact gun, then and only then it should be easy.

You have to be a little careful with Cometic though. I got a composite head gasket from them that was absolute trash (TJP500). However, their MLS gaskets are reportedly good. There is a whole thread about it. I replaced it with a Payen that was far better. Their valve cover gaskets are superb.

Rick OBrien
65 FHC in FL

Are you sure you got the Cometic gasket, and not the Comedic one? :rofl:


Perhaps. It was laughable!


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I’m a bit sorry about throwing in a blanket endorsement for Cometic gaskets to include the head gasket…I also have used the Payen head gaskets on my cars and can’t complain about them at all. I noticed that the super thin paper gaskets included in some of the ‘kits’ for the timing cover gasket seemed to me like they were dubious to say the least. They didn’t seem to fit right, and a leak in this area is a nightmare to fix. I used Cometic gaskets on my recent rebuild and though they are a little bit thick, I think they will seal the timing cover much better than any other option. Due to the slightly thicker gasket, I would also suggest adding a touch of oil resistant silicone at the very top and bottom of the timing cover seal after tightening it down; to completely seal that area under the head gasket and sump gasket.

S’why I did/do away with them, altogether!

A thin wipe of RTV, set under barely finger-tight bolts, overnight, and you’ll be leakfree.


Plan is to start pulling the engine and gearbox next week. I’ve rebuilt a few engines in the past but this is my first Jag. Any surprises awaiting me? eg special tooling. Lifting eyes on the engine seem substantial, side loading them wont be an issue? Well as soon as my son gets his 2000 M5 engine off the stand I’ll be all set. Which brings me to another question, stability on the engine stand. Had to add outriggers on the stand front legs to stop tip over when rotating the m5 V8 with big heads…Is the bolt pattern for bolting the engine to the stand anything that needs looking at? That’s a big lump hanging out there!

Perhaps ‘pulling’ is being used in a general way but in case you’re unaware, most owners prefer to drop the E-Type engine out the bottom.

Less drama, less risk of damage, etc.

The factory manual doesn’t describe this option but the final chapter of the Haynes manual covers it as do many posts here on the J-L.


I’ll be following this thread, please keep us updated if you can :popcorn:

Drop it out the bottom, I‘ve done both, lifting the car is much easier! You need to put the rear tyres onto some blocks so you can get the front high enough, then put the engine onto a dolly, lift the car and roll out engine and gearbox.

Out the top requires removal of all the pulleys etc. and then it is still a really tight squeeze, and you have to start at a really steep angle. Never again for me.

Sandy if you have a lift dropping it out the bottom is fairly straight forward and far less drama and almost a one man job.

Andy 69 FHC