thank you👍🏻
interior color and where are you buying it?
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Still deciding on that one. I am in CA so don’t really want to keep it the original black as it gets too hot in the sun, although I will have AC.
Thinking of a lighter color but undecided at the moment.
Jay
tan which is medium brown/orange would look great.
get samples from all the suppliers even from the uk
Had a nice break over the holidays but the exhaust arrived so could not resist installing the downpipes. Had to refinish the heat shield which is now ready so should complete the exhaust install this week if I have time. Completed the triple SU install and new distributor is also in place. Also had the original radiator serviced over the holiday so ready to install one I have refinished the fan shroud.
Jay
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Jay, the 2 water pump pulleys are they part #s C28609 and C30630 (larger)? I’m installing AC in my 69 Coupe and need to find the correct pulleys; a PO removed them. Were they original to the car or did you buy them and if so where from?
Thanks Andy
Mine are original to the car but I took a look at the moss motors parts catalogue and the numbers you listed look correct to me
Jay
Thanks a lot and I love your car. You’re doing a fantastic job and a great example to the rest of us.
Andy
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Mightyatom. My first post on this forum as I’m just looking to (hopefully) dip my toes into the world of E-types. I’ve just finished up the resto of a '65 Alfa, and prior to that a '73 BMW, but now looking for my next challenge. I’ve really enjoyed, and learned a lot, reading through this thread, and since we are both in the Bay Area just thought to say congrats and “thanks”, and perhaps our paths will cross at some point if I end up finding the ideal project E-type. Beautiful work. All the best. Tom
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Welcome Tom and great to hear you are in the Bay Area. Definitely good that you have restored a couple of other cars as the Jaguar is definitely a step up, soooo many parts. I was supposed to restore my MGC first but a head stud broke on my Jaguar so needed to remove the engine and on it goes. My first restoration and finally light at the end of the tunnel. Hope to be driving it this summer if all goes well.
Jay
Cleaning up the air filter backing plate and the radiator support brackets today so I can fit them up later in the week.
Before:
After blasting:
After paint:
Jay
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^ why not hammer tone finish?
The airbox does have the hammer finish but this plate did not have it on my series 2 so I kept as it was. I have not decided if I am going to use the airbox yet as I have a Mangolessi filter which I may use so the non hammer version will go with both.
Jay
Cleaned and polished up the radiator shroud today which took a bit of elbow grease. I was going to repaint it black but after cleaning off the old paint it looked in good condition so I decided to polish it. Should look nice.
Jay
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Jay, I had a job when I was young that was engineering but sort of turn the crank piecework. After a few weeks, the older guys got me off to the side and said, “Slow down, you’re making us look bad”. I have the same thoughts about your work ethic.
Keep up the good work 
Bit of a setback today. I attempted to fit the remaining parts of the Bell exhaust. With the front manifold loosely fitted in place to the block the first horizontal piece hits the chassis rail when connected. I called SNG and they are going to send another front manifold in case it was a manufacturing issue. If it’s not I am not too sure how to progress. I guess my choice will be to either return it or take it to an exhaust shop for modification which I will not be to happy about as the exhaust cost more than most cars I have owned.
Anyone else had issues with the 2+2 stainless steel Bell exhaust fitment ?
Jay
I installed the front half of a Bell exhaust on my 2+2 last spring. I had no problem at all with fit. It’s mated to Double S mufflers and center pipe, and Patriot resonators. Surprisingly, all of that fit together with a minimum of fstress. I think the Bell front pipes fit better than anything I’ve had previously, which includes a long list of various manufacturer’s pipes and headers.
What kind of clearance to the chassis rail did you have, any photos ?
It looks like it needs to drop about 1/2 inch on mine to provide proper clearance and no chance of knocking. Wondering if I can jig the engine over to the passenger side a little so that when resting on the mounts it will drop the exhaust side a little. I am guessing 1/8" move to the passenger side would result in a 1/4"-1/2" drop at the end of the header which should allow it to clear the chassis rail.
I’ll wait for the new replacement header to arrive and test fit first and if its the same I will jig the engine over.
Jay
I would think any exhaust shop that bends their own pipes, could put it in their machine and tweak a little bend out of it. I’d be tempted to lay it on a piece of cardboard and trace it out, and then trace out what you want it to look like. Give them the cardboard and the pipe. I’d show up with a box of donuts for them and you might get it done for nothing.
Jay, not very helpful but my 67 2+2 (recently sold) had a Bell stainless exhaust, purchased over 10 years ago. I’ve looked at the few pictures I have, which aren’t very definitive and don’t see anything close to what you are experiencing. I also dropped the downpipes last fall, to install Jet Hot coated manifolds, and again do not remember any issues. Sorry, hard to prove a negative but I would wait for the replacement parts.
I fitted their stainless downpipes to my FHC. I too had a heck of a time getting them to line up properly. Finally, I loosened the nuts securing the downpipes to the manifolds and then attached the downpipes to the mufflers, making sure they were aligned to reduce any stress on the flex pipes. Next, I used small blocks of wood between the downpipes and whatever structure was causing interference and made sure the two downpipes also had a bit of space between themselves. I then tightened the downpipe to manifold nuts and when I removed the wood blocks the downpipes stayed where I wanted them.
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