Does anyone know what the fuel flow requirements are for this V12? My stopped pump about 10 years ago while it was in storage. I worked away from home for weeks and sometimes months.
I started the car every time I got home. Then no click. I want to replace it with something with that has the same flow and pressure.
Almost any inline low pressure pump can be easily connected and will deliver plenty of fuel, you want about 4 psi. Facet is a brand that comes to mind. There are also electronically actuated replacements of the original, or rebuild kits for the purists, I have never considered it necessary.
Thanks for info and the fast reply. I bought on from Australia for my MGB. I will check it’s specs.
You need 30 GPH flow, stock pressure is 2.7 lbs.
https://www.coolcatcorp.com/Fuel%20Pumps/Fuel%20Pumps.html
I’m not a fan of Facet.
Been running this pump for the last 5 years / 15k miles.
I had tried a few over the previous 20 years incl. Carters and Holleys as well as electronic SU. This is the best so far
Also a great troubleshooting tool is a fuel pressure gauge which I mounted under the left side of the steering column.
If you hunt around the Burlen website, there are (or at least there used to be) pdf files listing the spec’s, e.g. flow produced, etc for all SU pumps.
kind regards
Marek
Thanks for the reply. I will consider this pump.
Thanks for the help. I will look into this pump.
The Delphi pump that shows up on Michael Franks list looks just like the Carter pumps that I have been running on my 1972 S3 for the past 40 years. Here’s a not-so-clear photo of the Carter pump
sitting where the original SU pump lived.
Best of luck,
Jay
I tried a Carter years ago, the noise was awful.
Btw I mounted the Jegs in the space inside the spare wheel. Not just better access but I never liked having the fuel pump inside the wing at the average car bumper height. One hit could cut the fuel lines and start a fire.
There is that… I had to remove the layer of anechoic foam insulation in order to get a good photo of the pump. Even the SU pumps had an insulating cocoon. 
Jay
And the bolts holding the pump go thru the arch well making it very difficult to remove.
Actually, the Carter pump is much easier to replace than the SU version, once the correct mounting bracket has been fitted. The Carter pump is suspended via three shoulder bolts that pass through rubber isolation washers, and access to those is a half-minute job by removing the one screw that holds the oval trim piece to the right-hand wheel arch.
I mounted the Carter bracket to the fender well using one of the ubiquitous Jaguar Metalastik exhaust brackets, so I actually have two layers of rubber isolating the vibration from the pump. No banjo bolts to deal with, along with their accompanying fuel weeping; wiring is via push-on connectors. The real beauty of the Carter pump is that it’s not an SU, so it really doesn’t matter how long it takes to change it, since it doesn’t fail. Let the flaming begin…
Jay
…but if that is a modern repro exhaust mount you used, it will probably fail within the next 12 months if my experience is anything to go by…
I hear that! The term “modern” is relative, of course, but that exhaust mount has been on since at least 2003. I know that the exhaust mount that I used to hang my resonators at about the same time didn’t last a week before it split apart! Not wanting to spend the time to re-configure a different resonator mount, I just drilled through the Metalastik and put a bolt through it. Similar idea to the safety bolts on the steering rack mounts.
Jay