Hi Bob, I have measured the depth of the door striker …its 16.8mm ( 1970 S2 OTS ) . I had lots of "trouble " with this striker because the captive “nuts” were too limited by the cage … so I had to modify the cage to get a good fit.Took ages to do this, especially as it might seem a relatively easy alignment to get it right. Hope this helps, and good luck getting it Fettled
I thick Joel meant to say “countersunk screws”. These will have a flat face and will have an angled surface meeting the housing.
You can also get more adjustment ability for the striker plate if you turn the new screws on a lathe at a depth of 16.8mm to ~19mm and take a small amount off of the diameter. So long as the screws still have enough thickness to not be compromised mechanically, then it enables you to orient (or angle) the striker plate inboard/outboard or up/down by an extra few mm each way.
Done right and with due care to the thickness of the rubbers around the door, it is possible to have a door which simply shuts under its own weight if you let go of it from just one handspan away.
Wish I could say mine do that, but no. I have newer, repro seals and have found on vintage cars, new seals often result in more force needed to close the doors and trunks.
In my case, with the door held in the full open position by the mechanism, I simply let it close from full open position on its own. It closes with a very nice thunk, but it is a pretty good swing. If the door has been closed for a period of time and I open and reclose it quickly, it will close without much force. Clearly, when seals have time to expand, they resist door closing. Such is life if I want the fit to be tight and perfect which I do. And, they are probably well sealed!
I’ve driven an OTS with doors that shut like that. Coupes, on the other hand, have additional drag, or friction points, at the window frame that cause a little more force to be required. At least that’s my experience.
The key thing is to do one seal at a time starting at the A-post and working backwards, work out where the pinch point is, eliminate it and then move on. Eventually, you see that simply a misplaced bit of trim or a too wide door card has enough “push” to make a door bounce back.
You can also see by how a rubber part is deformed when held shut to judge where it is under most pressure and then act accordingly.
It is also wrong to say the rubbers “expand” - they may harden over time though.
True enough. I think I’ve got my doors about as good as they will get. No slamming or undue force required. The car is also air tight enough that it’s easier to close the doors when the quarterlights are flipped open.
I didn’t do it, got the car that way. It is what it is and doesn’t bother me. It’s a very solid sound.
Trust me, mine “expand” when the doors are left open for a period. They are newer and compressed when the doors are closed. When the doors are open and closed, as if just getting in the car, they close quite normally. But, if they are left open for a period of time, like I’m working on something in the car, it will require more force to close the door. The only thing that could have changed is the expansion of the compressed rubber.
I would further submit that over time, the seals will expand less due to hardening and the doors would close more normally. I should live so long.