Recently acquired this beautiful 86 xj6 with 27,000 original documented miles.Beautiful car with zero rust that was garage kept under a car cover. The down side is everything on the car is original belts hoses breaks that all had to be changed to make it a reliable daily driver.Recently had a starting problem would start for 1/2 second then die trying to start again would kick and not start then would crank with nothing.If I tried it again an hour or 2 later same thing.Changed the fuel pump relay started right up and was fine.Assumed relay was bad when I put old relay back to confirm it was bad started and ran fine.My question is was it possible that there was a bad connection because of corrosion in relay holder and removing relay cleaned it up
Yes!
Cheers
DD
Thanks would’ve thought it wouldn’t start at all with bad fuel pump relay.It’s a nice car but everything on it is 37 years old so still chasing down a few more gremlins
Beautiful car, I’m jealous! Be ready to get to know the postman, UPS/Fedex, parts supplier people and JL website users well as you start using and working on your car. My first piece of advice would be to go through EVERY system in the car, one at a time. A car that has sat that long will have seal leaks, oils to change, brake lines to check, etc. ad-nauseum. That includes cleaning a lot of connectors, like fuel pump relays.
Perfectly feasible, Eng, but you should have just checked if the fuel pump was actually running - to confirm at the time…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
This is the 5th Jaguar I’ve owned 4 XJs and a 59 3.4 my expertise is with the 50s to mid 70 cars. Seemed strange that it would start immediately right up to high idle run for about a second then sputter and die.Trying to restart it would kick a few times and then nothing.Waiting an hour or two would do the same.I assumed that if fuel pump relay was bad there would be no fuel pressure therefore no start.Just glad its up and running.Got all fluids and all cooling hoses changed all fuel hoses are next.Today changing the fuel return valves.I can see a light at the end of the tunnel l know wishful thinking
It looks a lot like my 1987 crimson metallic on the right side of the photo. You will find many ‘problems’ on these cars can be solved by cleaning connections. I’ve owned my car for over 20 years, once you have the connections sorted, the car will provide years of pleasurable ownership.
Mel R
Test everything that has to do with fuel circuit.
Test pump pressure.
Test for 12 volts at the fuel pump.
Test for voltage drop at the various connections since you could have green crud
growing.
Other than more testing, your just throwing darts at the board, in my opinion
Eng, personally I wouldn’t change any fuel valves before cleaning the fuel tanks and putting filters in each supply hose before the changeover valve in the trunk. And don’t depend on the filters to overcome rusty, dirty fuel tanks.
Drained the tanks and found very very little rust.Changed all fuel hoses and filter along with return valves and cross over valve.sorted out the no start issue was a bad connection at fuel relay.this will be my daily driver although it only has 27K the downside is everything is 37 years old
Once I sorted out these issues when I purchased my '86 back in 1997, I’ve enjoyed the last 26 years with relatively trouble free motoring. When various ‘hiccups’ were encountered over the years, most were solved by cleaning and tightening connections.
I was able to check fuel pressure by disconnecting the fuel line to the cold start injector and connecting the fuel pressure gauge to the end of same dissconnected fuel line.
Check out this video on voltage drop testing since you have stated electrical connections/components are starting to get up there in age.
(2) Fix Electrical Problems by Understanding Voltage Drop Testing - YouTube