I second that
I just purchased one from Barrett only thing is it’s made of fiberglass
The fan cowling I am referring too.
Vintage Air Mark IV in a Jaguar Mark IX
Today it is sweltering hot in the states (SW Missouri). 105* F, (40.5C) feels like 118F (47.7C), but as cold as you would want it inside the cabin. I have to turn the fan to low and temp to about 2/3 - 3/4, or the air hitting you gets very cool.
Engine temp at idle is 90C, (194F), no overheating.
I think it looks like it belongs. What do you think?
I insulated the firewall inside with materials found in local home improvement stores. The heavy rubber/tarlike side is adhesive but I used additional rubber cement. I then sprayed Scotch 90 adhesive to the wool/felt side of the other roll. Together, they remove much of the sound and almost all the heat coming from the engine bay.
If you review, I used a Sanden compressor, an 14WX16"H condenser, and Spral 17" 3,000 CFM Pusher fan. I did not have to cut inner fender or move the battery. The Vintage Air evaporator has 4 different louvers and delivers a lot of air quietly, with no drips.
I had done a lot of research on what others have done to have A/C in their Mark 7-9. There were trunk mounted units, remote evaporators with underdash vents, and even poking out between the dashboard and upper wood. (see Classic Air)
This way I kept the original heater which works great and its defroster, and went with a cool only unit, which means more cooling surface area. I could not be happier with the results.
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Looks great. Have you considered wood veneer for the A/C case? That might make it look like it really belonged.
Dana,
That installation is VERY interesting to me, because, as you know, the inside of a MK IX can get uncomfortably warm. However, I don’t really want to design a complete system, as you have apparently done. Did you document the parts list and installation instructions? Would you do another one for me? 
I was looking at Classic Auto Air, since they appear to have a complete kit that bolts on. I know you did a lot of research on your system. What were your conclusions about the Classic system? Off list, if necessary.
Doesn’t Classic Auto Air have a bulky, foil-covered firewall mounted unit? Those look like add-ons to me. I think that’s what’s in the Mk2. I’m looking into Restomod Air. They have small RHD units.
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Mike, I almost would put together a system and instuctions for you since you are a regular on this board and have done a great job on our clocks. Except that my time is being called for in many other directions that have higher priority.
It would not be too hard to put together a parts list and pictures, but if I handed you a complete system, I would deny you the opportunity of putting in significant head scratching time resulting in pride of engineering and problem solving. It would be a shame to deprive you of that.
In no way do I want to dis (disrespect) Classic Air. For them to put together a complete unit with pre-clamped hoses is admirable. I also do not want to compare with them, because I do not have an alternative to offer. I can only tell you what I have done. I also do not want to be responsible if it does not fit, as I have only done one unit, and that needed some tweaking.
Most of the work is already documented in this thread. I can share share a pattern for the a/c bracket.
Here are my design asumptions that seem to be proven.
Insulation from heat incursion = less cooling load. Insulate. Insulate. Insulate.
Use a quality compressor. Genuine Sanden, not Sanden-type. There is no subsitute for quality.
Put as large a condenser you can fit in a place that has the most cool air flow. The 17" pusher fan does double duty of cooling the condenser and larger aluminum radiator.
Position the accessories so there is no cutting of original inner fender. I used an alternator for extra electric power. I have negative earth. The power steering pump is coupled to the back of the alternator. I would include another idler puller ahead of the crank pulley to give more wrap.
I speculate that remote cooling hoses gather condensation. An underdash unit drains all cold components. I also assume that lower CFM is needed to move air shorter distances, therefore more efficient. I would change the 3 position fan switch to adjustable, because after this unit runs for a while, I am looking for a lower fan speed than the lowest on the Vintage Air Mark IV.
I am quite happy with the results, and partially because I did the problem solving to get there. How could I take away those happy hours of pondering engineering solutions and part sourcing?
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Then… insulate more. 
Helluva human, you are.
suggested edit; “those MANY happy hours…” 
OK, I’ll start with a simple question. How did you install a pusher fan in front of the radiator? Mine has a rod running vertically in the center of the front of the radiator.
Hi Mike,
I was surprised to read your comment about a rod in front of your radiator… is that the remote activation rod that leads to the radiator drain? That rod on my car runs down the port side of the radiator, on the back side. I had my radiator upgraded (although not aluminum) with a thicker core, and used an electric
pusher fan on the front side. There is now not enough room on the backside for the original fan. Photos attached… hope this helps!
Jay
No, I’m talking about the rod that extends vertically in front of the radiator.
If you look in front of the hood latch there is a 1/4" hole. If you look in the center of the flange at the bottom of the radiator there is another 1/4" hole. There is supposed to be a rod with threads on each end between those two holes. It is BD.8281, “Tie rod, from tie panel to radiator diaphragm”.
I guess your picture explains how you addressed the problem of fitting a fan in front of your radiator!
Here’s what mine looks like with the rod still installed:
Its gone. The grille helps hold the striker plate. If I have to support the radiator upper removable support, it will be from the upper radiator crossmember. So far, no problems. You are right, it was in the way.
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the clarification on that! I’m not sure my Mark IX has ever had that rod in place ever since I’ve owned it. I’m pretty sure that my car had some front end damage at some point in it’s history; many small pieces of evidence point to that, and this may be one more example.
That rod is obviously intended to stiffen the “picture frame” in front of the radiator, but I’m not sure if its purpose is to help support the weight of the radiator, or to provide stiffness when the bonnet is slammed shut, or both perhaps.
Are you planning on retaining the stock cooling fan, as well as adding an electric pusher? From his post in May 2022, it appears that Dana has retained his original fan, but perhaps he can chime in and let us know how he fit an oversize aluminum radiator, an A/C condenser, and an electric pusher fan in that crowded space between the front of the engine and the back of the grill.
All the best,
Jay
It was not easy. The radiator had mounting brackets. I added two washers to bring it closer to the original fan. The condenser hung on the radiator support. The fan is only 3 3/4" thick and is supported by the condenser at top and by the support bottom. The condenser is offset to make room for the 90* fittings.
I also had to shave some of the plastic off the support web to be able to fit the grille.
Innovate, fiddle, fit, adjust, fit again. That’s how it gets done around here. I hated to shave it, but sometimes off-the-shelf items do not quite fit.
There’s enough fan support that it does not affect anything. And it will never show unless you share these pictures. (oops).
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Hi Dana,
Thanks for the update! If I’m reading correctly, you actually moved the radiator closer to the original fan… that would obviously give you more room in front of the radiator to accommodate the A/C condenser and the pusher fan, but I’m curious how you managed that. Earlier, you had mentioned a “larger aluminum radiator” but the photos don’t look like one of those. I went up to a four-row radiator core, and that’s where I lost the ability to squeeze in the original fan (core is now thicker). Just curious what route you took with the radiator. You can see from my photo how close the new core comes to the nose of the water pump.
Thanks again,
Jay
I paused on my A/C project, but for Fan speed control, I looked into PWM,
which in theory, should give continuously variable control over fan speed
I put in a 4 row alum. radiator. I had to open up the top support a bit. My core is 2 5/8" thick. I have 1" gap between the radiator and the front of the fan blade. See picture above with cardboard “radiator specialist” mock up. It all fits. Maybe your fan is flipped forward. (put on with offset the wrong way). You have to bolt the fan in before the radiator goes on.
