I purchased new hubs for my 140 which also required a separate purchase of studs to attach the brake drum. The studs on the old hubs were cross hatched on the back with a cold chisel so they were permanently affixed. My question is whether I should secure the studs with blue Loctite so they can be removed if damaged or with red Loctite which would essentially make a permanent bond. Any recommendations?
If the press fit is tight enough—it should be about a Class 3 fit— Loctite isn’t really neccesary, but, can’t hurt.
Red is the strongest, and if it needs removal, some heat from a torch will soften it.
Hi Bob,
I have used red Loctite in the past, as it can still be removed, but just needs a bit more effort. Here is what the manufacturer says: "
"It can be difficult removing Loctite® red threadlocker, and it’s a common vehicle maintenance question.
While the strength of our red threadlockers is formidable, and meant to be a permanent assembly method – don’t believe the myths…red threadlockercan be disassembled with the right technique.
When disassembling red threadlocker the process is a little different than for other threadlockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 550° F. Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without pplying heat to the assembly, it’s likely that over time, a bolt would break before coming loose.
Its that 550 degrees that makes me a little squeamish. I don’t have welding equipment, and that sounds like more heat than a propane torch could generate. I don’t anticipate removing the studs, but the hubs (and studs) were bloody expensive, so a setup that would allow only the damaged part to be replaced would be preferable. On the other hand, the original studs were installed permanently, I assume for a reason.
Hi Bob,
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This probably wont be a problem for years to come, unless you are constantly removing and installing your wheels, and using a rattle gun to cross thread them. As a car enthusiast I’m sure you will take care to not cross thread your wheel nuts.
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A propane torch can easily reach 550 Farenheit (280 Celsius). A torch will burn up to 1900 Celsius. so if the worst happens and you have to remove them, you can just play the flame on the damaged stud, and it should heat soak in enough. a FBH applied to the stud will then finish the job…
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Propane burns at about 3600F.
The reason the original studs were staked is so they won’t unscrew when the wheel nut gets rusty and won’t unscrew.
But if you really put the torque on a rusty wheel nut, the stud will unscrew, while that staking wrecks the threads in the hub as it comes out. Then you are left with a stud and nut stuck in the wheel, and a ruined threaded hole in the hub. Guess how I know.
Use anti-seize on your wheel nuts.
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Thanks. It looks like I will use the red Loctite on the studs and take care not to screw up the threads.