I like to plan things out in advance and begin accumulating parts prior to commencing a project. Given the cost of shipping and the time lag from “I need that widget” to actually getting it delivered, I prefer to have the majority of the parts on hand prior to starting.
It is highly likely that this fall I will drop the IRS and fully rebuild it. I have been in touch with Coventry West this week about acquiring an completely rebuilt XJS differential with 2.88 gears. I’m also looking at a rear brake kit with calipers and remote bleeders from Rob Beere, but may change my mind based on shipping costs from the UK. Lastly, I have my eye on a set of adjustable GAZ shocks and adjustable coil perches from Moss (per-assembled).
But given the scope of what I want to accomplish I know there are a multitude of other smaller parts that I need to be thinking about. Has anyone compiled a full list of all the items necessary to rebuild a Series 2 IRS?
Considering I’ve had my IRS in pieces for many weeks now, you’d think I’d be at the parts list stage by now! And, I am - it’s been on my list of things to do for 2 weeks now at least and I just haven’t gotten to it yet. I will try again this weekend. If I’m able to get it together, I will definitely share!
Are you experiencing any issues that have caused you to plan this?
A few months back when I disassembled my front calipers I gasped at their condition. At that point, I knew if the fronts which are so easy to get to were in such bad shape, what condition could the rear calipers be? Additionally, my diff is soaked in oily wetness and 1/2 inch of grease. When I recently changed the diff fluids, I’d bet it hasn’t been changed in a very long time, if ever. Additionally, the shocks look very old and tired.
I’m not in a huge hurry to do the IRS, in fact I’m a bit intimidated by the prospect, but I know ultimately it needs done.
The bearings/races are originally Timken and Id recommend just getting them from a bearing shop. You’ll also need all the hub seals, Half shaft U joints, Various size wheel bearing float shims,Lower hub bearing float shims and seals, emergency brake pads,lock wire for the brake calipers and diff bolts, new driveshaft bolts and locknuts, inner lower control arm pivot seals. New diff output flange to output shaft locknuts. and cotter pins for the hub nuts. Semi Gloss black paint.
Radius arm large and small mount rubbers, IRS cage to body rubber mounts, sway bar bushings and link end bushings, Rear brake flex line,and probably a few other items Im not remembering but thats the majority of what you need.
I dont know if Id bother with remote bleeders.
All excellent advice here. +1 getting your bearings from an industrial supply house. You are way ahead of the game starting with a fully rebuilt diff as that is the major challenge, especially if you were to replace the ring and pinion. Setting the contact pattern can be tricky. Even with a rebuilt diff you will still need a dial indicator with mag stand.
You also have a bit of research to do re: radius arm bearings. There are several threads trading off the benefits of needle bearings vs bushings. I personally went with with bronze bushings from CJ. I’m not sure there is wrong answer, just different philosophies.
I went with the SNG remote bleeders, but again a matter of preference. Critical in my mind however is the need to test the hydraulics before re-installation, especially if using bleeders that make use of banjo bolts. You will be sealing against a surface that was never intended for that purpose. A smooth finish is paramount. You can flip your calipers around to present the best surface for sealing and even with that you might need to stone the surface to remove fly cutter marks.
It’s a fair bit of work to make a pressure tester but in my case revealed several leaks that would have been impossible to fix in situ, especially if using stainless bridge pipes. At a minimum, you can start with an air tester like this with soapy water.
Yep to the parking brake…… mine had to come back out… the shop that did the diff did the brakes as well…… oops they had to redo their bit…… my work was fine refurbishing the rest of the irs…… so even the pros stuff up occasionally
Some additional notes for Bob, based on my experience to date:
I ended up joining JCNA so I could borrow the radius arm bush removal tool. I highly recommend this - it made pressing out the bushings a piece of cake!
Most of my bolts are in good shape and I plan to clean and reuse them, with the exception of the two bolts that pass through the lower wishbones to retain the small end of the radius arm - they are corroded and I will replace.
I intend to replace most of the lock nuts that I removed in disassembling the IRS and prop shaft. This includes the distorted thread lock nuts that retain the rear brake discs. I mangled several of mine during removal.
Rather than tackling it myself, I sent my parking brake assemblies to Apple Hydraulics for cleaning and rebuild (time savings for me). They haven’t returned to me yet so I can’t comment on my satisfaction with their work.
For the inner fulcrum shaft bearings and races - I’ve elected to stay with the roller bearing solution, but I’m not happy with the inner bearing races that are available. These should be precision-fit and held in place (to be kept from turning) by the inner fulcrum thrust washers. None of the bearing races available look to be the proper length to enable this, but I still have some measuring to do once I have all the parts cleaned up.
Did I mention that I was intimidated by this project before I even started, or even thinking about started. As it turns out, the level of intimidation I was experiencing is nothing compared to what I’m experiencing now… Thanks to all of you for all this terrific information. It is clear that their is a huge volume of experience present in all of your replies. I truly appreciate you all sharing it with me. I will continue to make my shopping list and may even make a few anticipatory purchases, but I will also be looking for professionals that I might be able to farm out some of the more “fiddly” of tasks.
Good advice. I’m already a member but had forgotten about this benefit.
Since I’m not refurbishing a Concours level car, I have tended to replace any/all nuts, bolts, washers that look worn or suspect. In approaching this rebuild, I will be tempted to replace components rather than refurbish them. Here is a list of the areas I want to be sure to attack, let me know what you think or what I missed:
rebuild or replace calipers
replace rotors and brake pads
remote bleeders
new adjustable shocks and adjustable coil perches with new coils
I believe SNG has a rebuild kit with many parts, if you are going to replace the needle bearing with like as opposed to solid bushes that might be worth a look.
I couldn’t find a thing wrong with the hubs so I left them alone because you can get the axles assembly out separately
I worked mightily to preserve those long shafts that run through the needle bearings only to find they are relatively cheap so just get new ones and use the old ones as drifts.
If you are taking the cage out, send the diff to Maury and get a 307 R and P I wish I had
I also went with a rebuilt XJS diff & ratio change but beyond that only addressed things that I felt needed replacing (e.g. radius arm bushings, handbrake pads, handbrake forks). Mostly I just stripped it to the pumpkin and swapped everything over:
Some parts I did not replace because they looked good and I was concerned about the quality/longevity of replacements (e.g. rubber IRS mounts).
In the 24,000 miles since the only problem I have had is a failed wheel bearing - but it is just as easy to replace those with the unit on the car as off (possibly even easier with it on).
I hear ya. Only you can weigh and decide how far you take this and if/when to get outside help. Mine is very much a driver and I came down on the side of fixing what needed fixing and staying with the parts that appeared okay knowing I may have to address them later - but that is just me.
BTW - my photos are time stamped so I see I began work the morning of 11/13/15 and had the car back on the road mid-day on 11/22/15. Again, that was with minimal divergence from the main task of replacing the diff.
Hi Bob,
With regards to the wishbone inner bearings, if they’re the original bearings, it’s likely they will need replacing. The bearings don’t rotate through much of an arc and are subject to brinelling. Examine the inner bearing sleeve and if you see evidence of brinelling, even slightly, replace them. Similar to never having seen a crack get any smaller, brinelling damage doesn’t improve.
Named German, UK, Japanese, US bearings are good quality and there is no reason for them to be not at least as good a quality as original bearings made 50 years ago; avoid Chinese and Korean made bearings. The grinding machines used by the better companies are extraordinarily accurate.
You won’t buy the inner bearing sleeve the correct length off the shelf. Simply purchase the closest over-length sleeve with OD that matches the drawn cup, needle roller bearing and have a machine shop machine them to length. The length is quite important; too short and they won’t be retained so the needle roller bearing can rotate on it.
Regarding the Hub Carrier fulcrum bearing assembly, have at least one dummy shaft made that is the same length as the overall dimension from one end of the assembly to the other. Slightly shorter is OK, but no longer. This shaft is assembled with the bearing assembly allows the hub carrier to be put in place between the outer jaws of the wishbone, whilst preventing the shims used to set the bearing pre-load from being displaced and therefore, prevent the actual shaft from passing through from one end to the other.
Brent, since I’ve never done a refurbishment/restoration of an independent rear suspension before, I have to admit that some of what you and others have communicated is Greek to me. But like everything else I done on this car, I learn as I go.
Back in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s I knew nothing about computers, but subscribed to Wired magazine. Every month I read it and said to myself “what the hell are they talking about” but over a short period of time, I began to catch on and not only understand what was being said, but recognize when there might be a better way. It was just a few short years later, at a software company as the head of product management ,I was making technology decisions or at a minimum participating in technology strategy discussions, that a few short years before I would have looked like a dog watching TV (staring and nodding).
I’m sure as I tackle this project, I will begin to understand what is being said and suggested, right now I’m like a dog watching TV I currently have two projects that I’m multi-taking on, the first is to build a detached garage on my property and the second would be to drop the IRS from this car in the new garage rather than ask my wife to keep her car out in the rain, heat, cold, snow and ice as I have for the past nine months…she’s been patient but I see that patience thinning out…
Bob I did this for the first time last February. I was also very intimidated. But it’s actually all fairly straightforward. The hardest part for me was setting up the hubs because I didn’t understand how to properly set the end float at first. Once I realized how it was a breeze. All new bearings etc except I did reuse the metalastik mounts because they looked to be in perfect condition. Upgraded brakes from Fosseway which are great quality plus their remote bleeder kit. I did have the diff professionally rebuilt because I felt it was above my skill level. You will be fine!
Bob, The emergency brake assemblies are not complicated. They are simple rachet mechanisms and rarely have anything worn out. If you need to, take a few pics while you are disassembling them. Clean all the ancient hardened grease out and repack it with Lubriplate white lithium grease. You need to “Fit” the little emergency brake pads, as sometimes they wont freely move in and out, sanding the edges of them may help. I reuse the tension spreaders, but a lot of people change them. Dont forget the lock tabs for the bolts that hold them on the main brake assembly.
Also good advice for those with Series 1 main rear brake pads, as they are frequently painted heavily on the edges and need to be dressed down to freely move in and out.
I would also want to buy extra splined hub nuts, just in case once you get the bearing free float set i the holes dont line up for the cotter pins. Of course you can always just sand the ends down until you get the right rotation but that takes a bit of time.( A lathe is handy for this too) Multiple nuts often index by luck if you have a few extra.
Hey Rob…… with the nuts for the shaft connection …… don’t put new ones on until you’ve got the camber right…. Just use normal nuts till then
I’ve done 2 irs now ( I get the pumpkin done) …… and have1 to go …… Bob is right it’s a whole new language …… hell I was a pen pusher before retiring …… and had very little mechanical knowledge …. But you gradually learn by ….having to redo stuff because of wrong order of assembly etc….lots of thinking and logic needed…… l love driving my E type but the journey along the way is very stimulating and enjoyable…. I love solving problems.
Only things I’ve not tackled …… gearbox, pumpkin, engine……. I intend to rebuild these on the next car under tutorship of a Jaguar mechanical expert I know!
