Air Rail Valves - WTH?

Well, by way of preface (although I think I mentioned this in an earlier thread), my roommate “tech bud” is back, after we discovered that the fraudulent charges on my cards were in reality due to the illicit activities of his ex g/f. We found this out when her present (now ex, too) b/f came forward to us both with what she had been very cleverly and stealthily doing – sneaking into wallets and photographing both sides of everything inside. In fact, she had ripped her current b/f off for $3K that way. My bud had wondered about some unauthorized charges on his cc a few weeks ago, but we chalked that up to online ID thieves. Now that we see some of the charges are similar, it all makes sense. :thinking: Anyway, just an example of what a substance abuse problem (heroin in this instance) can do and drive a person to do to others. Hopefully she’ll get some help soon, before it’s too late. :pray:

Anyway, back to the topic … As mentioned some time back, one of the air rails was getting almost untouchably hot on Superblack, and based on what everyone said on here it had to be a stuck or bad one-way valve. So, tech bud removed it last night and OMG. The valve itself was totally gone, apparently burnt away. :open_mouth: He installed the new one (N.O.S.), and, out of an abudance of caution, I told him to go ahead and remove the other one as well. Turns out that valve looks to still be intact (at least), but apparently nonfunctional at this point. Thank God none of the exhaust gases escaped to the outside in there, or we might have had a fire., or at least fried hoses, belts, etc. :fire: I am in the process of finding a 2nd valve as we speak.

Some things to learn from this one:

1- Be careful when removing the old valves, as the end attached to the straight part of the air rail is make of thin, cheap pot metal. :angry: (Jaguar!) … Very easy to just twist it away, esp, with a “well-aged valve” like mine were :grimacing: .

2- (b/c of #1), be sure you have replacement valves on hand when you remove the old ones, unless you don’t mind your car sitting around until you get one/some.

3- Be sure to also check the small hose segments leading from the two air rails to the crossover pipe. Both of Superblack’s were also cracked, apparently due to the high heat going through them. (I’m in the process of trying to locate replacements for same as well).

4- From time to time, be sure to hand check both air rails after the car is warmed up, to feel for abnormal heat – an early sign (or late) of valve failure.

5- btw, there was a factory “notice” (i.e. warning) card in the box with the N.O.S. valve, that when r/ring the valves the air switch valve should also be checked, as sometimes a bad switching valve is responsible for damaging the one-way valve(s). We’ll check this possibility out on Superblack, as soon as we find out WHAT the “switching” valve is and where it is located!:

I thought it odd that the other rail, despite the valve being inoperative, never got hot, so we assumed that valve must be good. :confused: I’m thinking that b/c the other valve was completely destroyed (i.e. missing) that the overall air pressure in the system (due to the crossover pipe) diverted more into that rail as a result, so that in effect resulted in relatively little air flow was going through the apparently good rail. That’s why it failed to get hot. :thinking:

As soon as tech dude gets a new smart phone (yes, while working he knocked his old one off a stool and broke it :angry:) we’ll take pics of both old valves and I’ll post them on here.

Glad you are sorting things out. But you may want to sleep with one eye open.

Regards your #1 and 2 … you CAN get by w/o this whole system. Simply plug the 12 small holes. Covered in the archives several times and by different methods.

#5 I am guessing the switching valve you mention is the one which directs air from the air pump to the system. I believe it is just in front of and kinda under the A bank air filter.

12 small holes? :confused:

2 heads, 12 cylinders, 12 small holes where the rails inject air? :slightly_smiling_face:

Something about this story is off, because on my '83 there was only one valve that served the entire air injection system. I hadn’t heard that had changed.

You were talking about secondary air injection system, were you not? If not, then sorry I misunderstood.

Air rails on each bank coming from Y connection at rear of engine (being fed by air pump) and then each branch through a one way check valve.
Six tubes on each air rail. 6 each side. Times 2 sides. Dumping secondary air into exhaust.

If you do away with the system, you will need to plug those 12 holes…or have exhaust coming into engine bay through those holes.

My point was that you did not have to have that system. If one of the pipes got buggered up, you could always just pull out the whole system. You can leave the pump in place as a belt pulley.

A bad check valve is a bad check valve, but I believe the more common reason for a hot air rail is a plugged-up exhaust tract.

the switching valve is lower down the valves :slight_smile:

the air valves are joined together by a “Y” shaped hose, coming from the switching valve, which is connected to a metal pipe by a short hose

access to the clips on this lowedr hose needs some creative use of ratchets, flexible bits and so on

with the “y” hose off, you get a better view of the switching valve

(it’s a good time to look for your engine number, which is stamped on the block next to the valve)

one more clip to remove and the switching valve can get off :

and you can check it’s opening under depression

the lower hose is available ( EBC3168 ) but reaching the lower clip is not fun

I fitted the lower hose to the valve before putting both together back in

so there’s only one clip to tighten low down there :slight_smile:

I don’t recognize that valve!

Maybe his 6.0 is different than out 5.3s in that regard? :confused: I have a hunch that small hose going to the switching valve is what my tech bud felt to be disconnected when sticking his hand way down under there the other day. Would it cause a vacuum leak (w. accompanying whistling sound whenever engine is running)?

Thanks for the nice pics, btw … ! :smile:

Not maybe, for certain!

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/C03.910.91017.91017229.910172294226/brand/jaguar/

This is the 5.3L air-switch scheme for the late 5.3s

Yeah, now that looks familiar! Right down to the notorious waste line dumping pumped air into the wrong side of the RH air filter housing.

That “switching valve” for the 6.0 doesn’t look like it’d do any switching, it looks like it’s open/close. How does this system work on the 6.0? Did the air pump itself change? Does it still run all the time and wastegate somewhere after the engine warms up? Does the air rail in fact have two check valves instead of one?

Here’s a picture of my scheme.

The weight loss will get you 0.1 sec off your quarter mile time, and save 0.3 MPG.

5 Likes

Oh, and the car in question is a late 5.3. That diagram probably applies to all H.E.'s. IIRC, the emission-controlled pre-H.E.'s had an air pump that ran all the time. And EGR, which the H.E. doesn’t have.

sorry, my mistake : I didn’t notice the 94 car was a 4L, not the V12
this is indeed the 6.0L additional air system, which is (very) different from the 5.3

Steve & Cosmo,
Nice graphics of the spaghetti control circuits, but doesn’t show the 3/4" steel output air pipe from the bottom of the controller that goes up along the block to the back where it goes up to the “Y” hose to the two anti-backflow valves.
My wife’s '89 had a single anti back flow valve, but her '92 has the Y and two valves. No switchy valve back there (on the '92) - its part of the controller at the right front. Up there, bellow the air cleaner housing,

the valve (controlled by the spaghetti) tells the air to go to the air rails, or dump into the wrong side of air flilter as Kirbert says.

Thanks for adding those pics, Locker (of the '92, correct?) … :smile: btw, why do you have FIVE hose clamps on that area … vacuum leak issue? :confused:

the 5 clips are probably 6, and may be needed instead of 3 to make a replacement for the “Y” hose which is unavailable for the 5.3L ( EAC8996 ) as for the 6.0L ( NAB4790BA )

XJSV12, you are correct, there are 6 hose clamps involved there for the reason you stated. The bottom of the plastic “T” piece (from the plumbing section of the hardware store) is connect by a rubber hose to the 1/2" (rather that 3/4" as stated before) steel air pipe from the air pump. The upper sides of the “T” are connected by rubber hoses to the respective anti back flow valves.
Back to Kirbert’s thought that the hot air injection rails are caused by a clogged exhaust - that is certainly a possibilty if there is leakage past the anti back flow vavles for whatever reason. But there are other possibilities as well. As far as I know, the air pump output is directed to air rails only during the initial warm up period of the engine, After that, all the air ouput is dumped to the wrong side of the air filter box. I don’t know how dirty or hostile that bypassed air from the air pump is to the engine, but it does seem a better idea to dump it to the other side of the filter or dump it back to the atmosphere. Anyway, since the period that air pump air is pumped to the air rails is very short, it would take very little leakage and pressure for the anti-back flow valves to allow hot exhaust gases into the air rails with no pressure of the pump air being present to oppose the exhaust gases. And consider that once the air pump starts to bypass the air, there is no air available to “cool” the air injector rails - and they are in the hot area above the engine heated by hot engine air and some heat conduction from the air tubes.

Oh no, don’t tell me that … As that’s what I still need … now what do I do (as mentioned, mine has cracks) … ??? :grimacing: Are there even any good used ones to be had? My tech bud thought about wrapping it up with electrical tape, but can that withstand the heat under there? :confused: I don’t know why they don’t make a brush-on substance kind of like a liquid form of rubber (or polyurethane?) that can be brushed onto the area of a hose containing such cracks. When it hardens, it would be just as flexible as the original hose material and basically “renew” it on the outside. :thinking: In the meantime, I have bought a bottle of spray starter fluid and have advised that he check the whole engine bay area for vacuum leaks with it (while engine is COLD only), inc. that hose.