As long as the threaded plug and temp range are within specs, I would use whatever you can find.
I know that VW used the same size threaded plug/temp switch for the RABBIT and JETTA in the 80s/90s so I have used them in a 1994 XJ-S to get a customer going again.
Fans operated normally.
Thanks Motorman, I’ll see what I can find that is within specs. Additionally, I do not care for that plug that’s on it…not really user-friendly, I’d think I can replace that thing as well, as long as it’s connected properly?
I replaced mine several months ago on my AJ6. I received one from one of the usual suppliers without the connector, just 2 male spade connectors.
I cut off the original connector on the car side and installed 2 female connectors. I’d jump the two wires together and see if your fan actually operates since your doing a coolant system refresh. I’ve never actually heard my fan run so doubted it worked. It did spin however some of the rubber bushings had perished and it wobbled which I certainly would have heard!
Interesting! I have never heard-nor seen-my fan run either…I’ve read plenty of other people saying the same thing. “My AJ6 runs above “N” normal on the gauge.” Actually I think mine will creep on up, and I don’t like that to happen. So, i felt I should start “renewing” all its components.
I’ll go from the Relay, to this thing, then work my way to the fan itself, I’ll only jack with the radiator if forced, due to expense. But I will flush it and see if that yields anything, eventually.
Since I had to remove the air filter housing, I do need a new air filter. In that respect-I see my spacers are broken and need to replace those (the outrageously-priced black rubber support spacers that actually hold the filter assembly to the wheel well).
Thank you for your reply!
On a different note/subject, why does my air filter container have a tube on the bottom, that looks like a hose fits on it? When I removed it, there was no hose attached…should there be? If so, where would it run to??
It is part of the air injection system. There should be hose attached unless the system has been removed. Mine is still present.
Thank you mucho Gordon. I’ll see what it looks like to determine if I still actually have it.
Good morning Gordon. It appears that the system is not present in my engine compartment. However, seeing as how it does not appear to be critically required by anyone, i am not going to go looking for one to install. I read that if one is not used, then I should plug up the hole in the air filter container. I will do this.
Additionally, there are many posts about running hotter than “N”. Many of them have the same issue of “not hearing nor seeing their aux fan run”. As you suggested, I should jump the contacts. I’m embarrassed that I have no clue how to begin that process, other than you run a wire directly in between the contacts, likely in fusebox or relay?
If you could take a minute to instruct me on that, or direct me to someone who can give me a very basic guide as to how to do that, and whether the car should be running, or not, or just the key on when I do it, etc., I’d appreciate this.
James - - IIRC…with the plug disconnected from the sensor, just use a short loop of solid copper wire that will fit into the car-side connector. One end of the loop into each of the two sides of the connector — essentially closing the circuit on the car side. Turn the key to run position and you should hear you fan run.
James, count how many fan belts you have. If you have 3, your air injection system is installed, well at least the pump! Your correct it is not a vital system and most are probably clogged anyway.
No need to be embarrassed on not knowing how to do something. Looks like Jim pointed you in the right direction on jumping the wires. There is a vast amount of knowledge available here and nobody knows it all.
I just did a major coolant system revamp. All hoses, thermostat, fan clutch, sensors, hot water valve and new radiator. A point you may want to look at will cost you nothing but a little time. There is a black piece of metal spanning the front of the car which holds the radiator in place. Remove that cover and look down and see if there is any crud (technical term) visible at the bottom. There is a good chance the bottom third of the radiator is clogged with leaves and trash.
After my refresh, my car will go to 1 needle width above the N and then it is obvious the thermostat is opening since it will drop to the middle of the N almost immediately.
Dzia-will do and thank you for responding!
I’ll keep you posted. Your words of encouragement are kind, and your info is great!
I only have 2 belts, looks like a serpentine belt, and one attached to main radiator fan from another main spinning component.
Great, I’ll give it a go tomorrow and post response.
Thanks! Roll Tide!!
Well, hello again Friends! I’ve determined that it’s the gauge or sender that’s dodgy. Thankfully, my mechanic tested the temperature of the coolant when the gauge reads “H”. It’s not even 200 degrees which indicates to me that it’s not overheating, but that the sender is the problem, or the dash gauge. At least I won’t be overheating the car, but I will replace either of those things myself. Thanks Jim and the rest of our Jaguar friends for your helpful responses!