Almost burned up

E-Type
21

I would take that advice as well
Annnnd run a new hot key wire to the coil
But that Imho

22

This was my issue on my 54 year old ignition switch, but not because of an incorrect coil. My car would just die for no apparent reason, especially in the heat. The symptom was just like a switched-off car, i.e., no electrics worked. For awhile, holding the key to the right would get me home, but it only got worse. Upon inspection, one of the wire spade covers on the switch was melted. Swapping in a new ignition switch cured the problem. Note too that the ammeter had a wavering needle before the swap, and that issue was cured, too.

23

The OP mechanic may or may not be competent. I am not sure we know enough to make that determination. We seem to be jumping on the 0.32 ohm coil and automatically saying the resistance is low thus current high, thus burned up the wires, thus idiot mechanic.
If we assume a normal coil is 3 ohms, and this one is 0.3 and we assume the current is 10 times, or even 5 times, how could that be? When we drop from a 3 ohm coil to a 1.5 ohm coil, we typically add a ballast resistor in series to prevent it from burning up. All these coils are about the same size. Thus about the same heat dissipating capacity. If the 1.5 coil would burn without a ballast resistor, how would one ever expect a 0.32 ohm to survive? How could any application us this coil?
I believe because this 0.32 ohm coil is not to be used with a point system. It is only to be used with certain electronic modules, those that control the dwell. By controlling the dwell, the current is controlled to prevent coil overheating. And a potential of too much current draw.
So, we do not know what the OP’s distributor module is, or if we do I missed it. If points, then yes, the mechanic failed. If an approved module, then no the mechanic did not fail. This coil should work perfectly find on an S1 with the proper module, just as I am sure it does in many applications.
(Having said that, I prefer stock in most cases.)
Tom

1 Like
24

The secondary voltage doesn’t pass through the switch. However, this .32 ohm primary would draw about 40 amps through the ignition switch! Do we see the problem there? Low impedance coils are intended for CD ignitions ONLY, not points and not simple points-replacements. You need at least a 3 ohm primary circuit, so either a 3 ohm coil or a 1.5 with a ballast resistor. The brand is irrelevant: Bosch, Delco, Pertronix, Lucas, you won’t see one iota of difference. But you need to pick the correct primary rating. Your other alternative would be to install an MSD ignition box.

25

I did replace points and condenser with petronix ignition module. Anyway, I ordered a new Lucas sport coil and a new ignition switch and hopefully between the two of them my problem will be solved. I may be throwing money at the problem but it seems to me that with the types that is what it takes sometimes.

26

Do not take this personally, as it is not offered as a personal comment: it’s only offered in serve a general, mechanical-diagnostic way.

In the absence of a basic understanding of electrics–which is different than electronics–this is a simple problem to create, and with said basic knowledge, this is a simple problem to diagnose and to avoid.

If any given mechanic doesn’t understand how this can be created, by using the wrong resistance coil, then they have a problem.

2 Likes
27

The 0.32 ohm coil is compatible with igniter 3, not original and 2.
Tom

28

Don’t remember which pertronix it is.

29

Okay, not the coil. Put a new Lucas Sport coil and the terminal got very hot. Waiting for a new ignition switch. Hope that fixes it.

30

After you get the new ignition switch, suggest you put the ignition on a fuse protected relay.

1 Like
31

Could you please explain how that is done? Thanks

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32

Charles
Maybe it’s time to call in an auto electrician

33

You use the ignition switch to power the coil of a relay. The relay then switches power to all of the stuff the ignition switch used to power.

34

Relays explained here: temp14 (coolcatcorp.com) (Substitute ignition, lights, whatever for fans). Fuse the power side of the relay…the key simply closes the relay solenoid.

35

And my suggestion is…fix the problem. Don’t band aid it with a relay, fuse or any other home brew. If you have a heavy current draw, the very last thing you should do is install a high current relay.

I would begin by measuring current on that line with a clamp ammeter. Then take out ALL the fuses, and measure again. If the current drops, it means your problem is on a fused connection: replace the fuses one by one until you find the faulty circuit. If it doesn’t, then there are only a handful of unfused connections: ignition, fuel pump, maybe a couple more, that will need to be checked one by one.

1 Like
36

Welll… that’s kinda radical thought…:grimacing:

37

While we are on this topic, do any of you keep fire extinguishers on board? :roll_eyes:

38

ALWAYS!!!

Had a 5-pound ABC dry chem bottle in Tweety, strapped to the roll bar, and a small Halon bottle in the console cubby.

Those bottles are now in Margaret.

1 Like
39

Heading over to the Google this instant!

40

I carry the Element extinguisher. Haven’t tested it. I bought an abc extinguisher for the work shop today.

1 Like