The CS-130 RULES…best choice…
Tho for the application on an E any alternator will work…but not on a sailboat in Panama.
THE CS-130 Rules
Thanks Jagart. I’ve a bit more tidying up on the electric connections at the alternator, but so far everything is working as it should.
The CS-130 is a good choice and is affordable and readily repairable. But the Nippon Denso alternators are too. Both of these in the USA. In Europe, perhaps the Lucas is the best choice. IMO.
As to working on the sailboat in Panama…I’ve done that! Albeit a long time ago. 
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Nippon Denso…always looking for something better.
The 10si and 12si and “criminal” balmar…simply put…they melt…turn them up…they melt faster. You can smell them burning. For 20 years replaced stator, rectifyer, triodia.
But, some 15 years ago…while in Jacksonville Florida a shop made us 2 cs-130’s…not cheap (they are now) and it did not burn up for some 5 years…astounding.
30 years in the tropics of Panama…
So, if you honestly KNOW the Denso is superior…I am all in. What part number?
Thanks Mitch
I don’t know that Mitch. I didn’t like the way the N-D looked so I didn’t pursue it. I did have confidence in the CS-130 that was a significant Delco improvement over what preceded it: the Si10 and Si12. So I picked on that and sought out the right configuration (there are lots).
Ok so I have a denso 14684N with an internal Reg….so I need to bypass the 4TR Reg and don’t want to change wiring if I can help it! …… question Re the sensing wire (brown/green) NG …… my assumption is that this needs to terminate at the battery terminal or in that area ……… can I do this ! …… inside the regulator disconnect all three wires and then bridge the NP and NG wires as the exciter wire will be also a sensor ?
Help from @Michael_Frank maybe useful here I guessing
Let’s see what Mike says Danny. He is far more knowledgeable on this stuff than I am. What is the car your working on? -Scot
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You are replacing an 11AC alternator with a nippondenso? Does your car have a 3AW?
If it does, then just use the wiring diagram on my website:
If your car is early and doesn’t have a 3AW, then you need a switched 12V source for D+, not a battery connection. You can indeed bridge the NP and NG wires to obtain the power supply. Make sure you gut the 4TR if you’re using it as a junction box, because the regulator circuit could cause the NG lead to ground.
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Great that’s what I thought Mike …… yep it is to be gutted as you say …… the rest of it it I had figured out ok just wanted to make sure I was right ! Have the AW3 system in a 68 2+2 @ScotThompson that I’m currently finishing just all the tail end stuff and startup to go ……it’s going slower than I’d like ….maybe I’m slower than I was!
Cheers
D
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Can this wiring be used with a early 3.8?
I am no longer as fast as I ever was
BUT
I’m as fast once as I ever was.
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Or, as. T-shirt I had read…
“Man! You MUST be fast!” on the front…
On the back, “Because when I passed you, you were HAULING ASS!”
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Pretty much. But instead of gutting the regulator, you need to wedge the cutout relay closed, and bridge the green and yellow wires. Ray Livingston did an illustrated write up years ago, you can find it archived here:
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I sure wish Ray would reintroduce his alternator kit…i foolishly sold mine…
Just for convenience, I’ll repost the link to the consolidated thread that reports on the conclusion of the thread we are reading in this discussion re-opened by Danny. The link below cuts to the chase about the alternator I chose and how it is wired including the parallel resistor that allows the alternator to work in the event the warning light burns out. Here is that summary thread: