Aluminum Billet Conn Rods and Oiling

I usually post in the E-Type section as I don’t race and most all the info I can glean and/or need would come from that realm. That being relayed- I recently purchased a stock-sized-but-fabricated-in-aluminum set of rods and they do not come with a bushing in the small end and the OEM oil passage is not there (on purpose so they don’t break) between the big and small end. Instead there is a hole in the top of the small end and some channels inside cut near the hole, for oiling.

My question- I was contemplating an oil scraper by the crank, not as an RPM enhancer but to keep more oil in the pan and smooth out the idle a bit. Should I nix the scraper idea so as to keep “splash” going inside the crankcase, and under the piston so that my new conn rods have adequate supply at the small end?


69 2+2 4.2L

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try it you may like it. NICE.

i doubt you will have any problems , i have used forged Alloy rods over 50 years ago, probably not made as well as those!

used in a short oval track car screamin 7000+ rpm.

you should consider a rebalance of all internal parts tho!


Yeah, have the “bob weights card” on the ready, for the rods, for balancing, and will do individual pieces for weight differences and then the crank/flywheel/clutch pressure plate & disc/damper, all as a unit, if I can. I have yet to have the JE pistons made up- I plan on doing the wrist pin offset- do I need to account for that with the bob weights on the rods, or some way or another for the weight shift, ya think?



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The more I look at this, as I have no forced oil to the wrist pin is the “broached oiler” or similar setup to feed the pin and I will probably do a DLC coating, too, to the pin. I don’t go real fast but I do want to have an oil scraper, if I can.


XK Jaguar engines are internally balanced and the flywheel with the pressure plate are balanced separately along with the damper. I’m surprised that the shop that you are dealing with doesn’t know this!
Plymouth, Mi.

i dont think such a minute change in offset pin balance would make much difference ,it would be miniscul!
speak to your balance guy, may have more info!

engines that are internal balanced still need crank balanced to the new parts! (you probably know that anyway).

and i have always preferd out side parts located on the crank be rebalanced, if something goes down you can redo the same weights, they normally give weight sheets for that purpose!

you are dancing in an unusual place ,lots of detail, DLC coating , oil scraper vs oil splash to pistons and pins, but oil splash can also help cool under side of piston & pin, = detonation?

that brings up some i did on a 4 cylinder , was drill into the side of crank case and put piston cooler jets in with the oil supply line on outside fed from pump pressure. as i remember jets were from another type engine,maybe a Diesel. the extra oil may help with pin oiling, does the rod have a small chamfer on top at oil hole ???.

anyway have FUN!


I seriously doubt you’ll tell any difference, at idle: what you will notice is less oil fog, coming out the breather, and more (barely measurable) HP at high rpm.

The biggest effect of an oil scraper, in a race engine, is less oil foaming. If your going whole hog, dont forget a windage screen!

Even with a scraper, I think there will be puhLENTy lubing of the small end.