I disagree. Yes they are heavy but not very, and the door is already heavy enough, no dramatic changes at the forces the hinges see.
When I re-installed them in mine I observed no difference.
From my experience, the front will definitely not move, and if the rear sags a tiny bit, a slight push upwards with a jack under the door will bring things back to speck easelly.
What might change the alignment though are the seals.
They push the door outwards and if there is any play at the hinges it will become apparent.
They might also push the door rearward.
I am under the impression that when the door is closed it rests on the catch so the door no longer hangs. Am I correct?
In any case, I weighed the innards of the door: about 25 lbs.
I hanged a 25 lbs cinder block to the door, and saw a slightly discernable amount of flex, not enough to justify changing the gaps tuning.
I will leave the ballast on for a week. There is no catch to rest the door on. Will see what happens.
Yes correct.
But in order for the door to close smoothly it must align perfectly with the catch, and the tolerances are quite small.
If the door saggs from the weight of all the innards it would be a couple of mm max.
As I said before, what I did was open the door just a bit, put a jack underneath with a piece of wood and gave it a slight push. Kind of redneck style, but worked.
I am happy to report that after one week with ballast, and hanging only from the hinges, the doors have not moved, the gaps have not changed.
So I fine-tuned the fenders, and it is all looking pretty darn good.
The imperfections will be easily corrected with thin to tolerable amounts of body filler.
Ever wondered what the pins and springs look like when the hood is down?
I had to do these videos to figure out why, with the catches removed, the hood pins were getting stuck in the brackets. For a while, I could not re-open the hood!! Arrgh.
Only thing I see is that the to corner of the fender where it meets the door seams to be a bit lower.
You can very easily bend the fender to match the door exactly. Thatās what I did anyway.
The way you have the bonnet latches assembled, with the nut outside the spring, is is the way it is depicted in the parts catalogue and the way both my XJ6s were.
The striker pinās cone forces the spring loaded striker plate sideways, Eric - and then allows the striker plate to close as pin is far enough down. The spring is compressed between the hood and car body - and when the release lever is pulled; the striker plate moves yo free the pinā¦
Failure to lock implies that the pin is not ālong enoughā and must be extended. Failure to release usually implies misaligned pin or broken/maladjusted cable faing to releaseā¦?
Yes, correct indeed.
Had a look in mine and itās that way.
I wonder why Ericās seems that the springs compress fully and donāt let the bonnet close.
Ok then. It does look like the spring is compressed to the point where it stops the bonnet from going down further. But indeed, may be this is the way it is supposed to be to avoid any bounce.
I added a thin washer between the nut and the bonnet as I could not contemplate the nut ābitingā into the paintwork.
Yes, this is what I was testing for. There is slight misalignment (earlier in this long thread I talked about looking for the right angle for the pins after doing some strengthening welds). The videos were to help me find what way to align the pins.
The bonnet has a captured nut and the external thin nut is a locknut. The spring is seated in a dished washer at the bonnet. You adjust the pin and then secure it with the locknut. I doubt my car has had this messed with, and previous cars were the same.
