After jacking and blocking all 4 corners last weekend to grease joints I’ve realized I never want to do that again. Since I have a new credit card in the mail and need to spend some money to get my free flights, I was thinking about one of these. It seems to be the most cost effective way to get the car off the ground for any wheel or chassis work or detailing.
A post lift isn’t feasible for my small garage, and weak slab. With a 4 post, can’t work on wheels and a 2 post will get in the way of the doors. The only thing I’m not sure of is whether it would fit under those skinny stiffener rails. I think it would need additional blocks on top to keep the foot wells from getting smushed. These can apparently lift about 8 e-types at once.
I would LOVE to have one of those! I would be tempted to make some custom supports that span the two lift sections - one running laterally at the rear, and picks up either the half-shafts or the center of the IRS tie plate, and two that run longitudinally, and pick up the front lower control arm supports. Might be ok to just do another lateral support that picks up the front ends of the frame rails, but I’d rather have the front pickup points closer to the front of the engine, for better balance. Some square-section steel tube (cheap!) could be used. If the length of the QuickLift allows enough support, they could even be wood.
One down-side - looks to me like there would not be a lot of room left to work under an E-type supported on one of those.
The 3500 model lifting pad is 50", and the 5000 is 60". I’d think it would balance well enough just under the ends of the body stiffeners. is that not where people with 2 post lifts place the 4 lifting arms?
It’s obviously not as convenient as a full lift but would be a dream compared to trying to squeeze under a car sitting on jack stands.
You could make spreader bars, but those lifts don’t really give you all that much space under the car.
We use in-floor scissor lifts, with blocks of high density foam (about 3x6x12"). Most of the time you can find a seam which is a hard enough point that the foam will distribute the load suitably. We have spreader bars, but they’re only rarely used.
Sometimes it’s enough to just put one axle on the lift and use a crawler.
Erica. If you have room for a 4 post in your garage and the only thing concerning you is doing tire work with it you can easily use hydraulic jacks and a couple of heavy wooden beams to support the car on the lift while you remove the wheels. Fancy (expensive) hydraulic bridge jacks are also available if you desire. 4 posters are also preferable for weaker floors as there is no sideways loading on the individual posts. I love mine and just used it to remove the transmission on my wife’s cts which requires partially dropping the front subframe among many other things. (And you thought e-types are difficult to work on!). The other nice thing about a 4 poster is it makes a nice adjustable work table with the addition of a few sheets of plywood as well as a great storage area when not in use. I wish I had bought it years ago.
I realize this is an old thread but now that I’ve acquired a Quick jack I would like some advice on exactly where on the chassis of my Series II OTS are the acceptable jacking points for me to use. Is there some type of diagram that pinpoints the proper places? If anyone currently uses a Quick jack some pics or descriptions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks!
Chet
Not sure what a Quickjack is: safe points are inner suspension pickups on the front, under the lower control arms, and on the bottom of the picture frame ( NEVER under the radiator support), under the leading arms in the back (preferably directly under the big end), and the “frame horns,” just in front of the IRS cage, on the shell.
Under the IRS cage is also good, but use a chunk of wood.
The pads are a good idea in the front so you clear the line. It’s still a reach for my two post lift, car has to be centered perfectly. I use the trailing arm mounts in the rear with a couple of 2 X 4 blocks.
