I’d advise some homework first.
My understanding is that if this is within a certain distance (don’t know the distance) of a structurally important part of the body, even if not structural itself it would not be allowed in the UK
I don’t know about that but the aluminium will corrode, just as heat shields and pop rivets do. But it’d take years. Why not use steel?
I’m not stuck on using aluminum over steel, except for reasons stated (much easier to work with hand tools, doesnt rust – at least at the rate steel does despite anti corrosive measures).
But, I am curious why aluminum not allowed in UK? Plenty of examples of AL cars and use as structural members, and floorboards dont seem to be a high-stress area, right?
OTOH, probably will go with steel via an existing pan from another car, modified to fit.
That flange will be important…but we are about to be further hit by more freezing ice and snow, so I’m not too enthusiastic about going out to the tent garage to get under the car.
Have to get the snow blower in position, and test the generator. Expecting power outages due to worsening of already big accumulation of ice on the trees and lines.
It’s the riveting that’s the problem.
I suggest you check for yourself and for your country but in the UK my understanding is that patches (which is what it will be) anywhere near any structural part of the body have to be seam welded.
I could be wrong, and it could be far enough away from any structural part but I’ve been told this by more than one mechanic …
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I think the key to this is remembering that this is a unibody, not a body on a frame. All those components work together to provide the structural integrity of the car. The skin of the floor is like the plywood on the wall of a house - without it, sheer strength is nil. Is replacing the floor with pop-riveted aluminum enough to significantly weaken the car? Very doubtful if the rest of the body is sound, but best practice would be solidly-bonded steel, either welded or affixed with modern glue.
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Micah - yes, I’d think Daimler pans would fit. I’ll try a search. Thanks.
Ron - yes, I should have stated glue + rivets.
I have heard many body shops claim glues are as strong as welds, although I just am too old-school to believe it. Hence, adding rivets.
Curious if the pans from the DS420 ended up working.
Micah
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That is how I repaired a sill and one floor pan in Tweety, and it worked a charm. Many here scoffed.
Rivet bonding is generally considered by many to be a superior method to traditional spot or plug welds.
- Totally seals all seam surfaces eliminating potential for corrosion.
- Takes less time.
- Final product is stronger and more rigid.
The riveting is generally only necessary in areas that are subject to the seam “peeling” as that is one weakness. Patch panels should not be bonded in to areas with visible flat panels as ghosting is possible at the joins.
Main drawback as far as I can see is the price of the material and the mixing tubes which can be lessened by careful planning. Other drawback is the non original aspect which applies mostly to the rare and original cars.
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When I worked (briefly) in a body shop about 50 years ago riveting was banned. Everbody was annoyed because everbody was happy with riveting but any car that was rivited would fail it’s annual test - no exceptions.
Things might have changed over the years but I’d suggest checking that it’s allowed where you live 
JLR rivet and glue their cars together. When you do a tour at Solihull they give you a tiny little rivet to take home. Proper rivet of course, not a pop rivet.
A lot of technical developments in the years where bonding has improved.
Still no reply. I guess we will never know if the DS420 pans worked out.
Micah